Uncategorized – Page 2 – OddSocks on Tour

Gallivanting in Georgia

Hi again everyone. We’ve now entered lands far away and with diminished wifi opportunities so its taken a little while… but here goes the next chapter 🙂

5^th October

We entered Georgia a little tired from our long drive, but with great anticipation of what we might find… and we most definitely weren’t disappointed! Firstly the difference between arid, almost desert-like central Turkey and Georgia was incredible. There were trees, bushes and Greenland galore. Apart from warm temperatures, it almost looked like home J I say almost because the other defining feature of Georgia is that there are animals….. EVERYWHERE! Cows, horses, sheep, goats, pigs, dogs, hens… .you name it! They ramble around the roads like they own them! The driving is also nothing like we’d experienced so far. Everyone drives wherever they want, paying no heed to signposts, road markings or pretty much anything else!

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Anyway we made it the short drive to Batumi in one piece, parked up outside the Sheraton hotel (not to stay in though…ha ha!) and headed down to the beach. Our first dip (and decent wash…!) in a few days was heaven and we lay out in the sun, relishing the opportunity to relax for a few hours. After warming our bones, we headed into town to get some Georgian money and explore a bit. Batumi is clearly in the midst of a tourist boom and there are skyscraper hotels popping up everywhere. The old town, however was quaint and lovely, and we parked ourselves outside a wine shop to enjoy some of the local produce! A little merrier, we headed back to the beach, had a short nap, and then forced ourselves to get up and run the lovely, long promenade. Afterwards, famished, we headed out for some renowned Georgian food J

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We were anything but disappointed by the culinary treats which lay in store! Fresh salads, roasted and grilled meats, delicious bread and cheap, yummy wine… Food Mecca! The waiter guided us around the menu and recommended a shot of ‘Chacha’ to start the meal. A ‘degustation’, he said. Spirits before food?! What the hell! When in Rome… After dinner we headed back to Seline for some well needed sleep, only to be woken in the middle of the night by a headache so bad that it felt like my skull (me, Seb) was about to split in two. I needed air, headed outside and, well, let’s just say that this exclusive corner of Batumi will never be the same again! My Carcassonne moment 😉

6^th October

Having eventually slept we rose as late as we could but we had a schedule to keep! After another swim in the sea, a shower on the beach, a spicy beef sandwich and some good strong coffee we were ready to drive on to Svaneti!

Svaneti is a remote province sandwiched between Abkhazia and South Ossetia (which are the bits which Russia invaded a few years back) and is high in the Caucus Mountains. According to Lonely Planet, the road up to it has been greatly improved in recent years so we had high hopes of driving the 250km odd fairly quickly. Despite the usual hazards of potholes, animals everywhere, and crazy drivers, we made it to the last city, Zugdidi in a couple of hours with a 90km drive through the mountains awaiting us to get to Mestia, the usual base spot for exploring the mountains. Three hours later we eventually made it. The much improved road was insanely narrow, potholed and in places had been washed away and rebuilt with stone pulled off the mountain. How bad must it have been before we thought?! (And would find out later!).

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We finally made it to Mestia in need of some R+R and found it in a cute, bustling little bar in the town square serving Svan cuisine. We settled in for the night and got relaxed over some delicious stews, a litre of homemade wine and traditional Georgian music and dancing, thinking of our plans ahead!

7^th October

Having driven all the way up to Svaneti we had no desire to leave and so we decided to embark on a four-day hike through the mountains. This turned out to be an excellent decision as the mountains really are beautiful and, by chance, we had arrived just as all the leaves were turning from green to orange. We therefore parked Seline up outside the Police Station assuming she might be safe there, and we set off through the flame coloured landscape towards our first destination Zhabeshi. We were assured in the tourist office that it would take 8hrs to reach our destination so, having spent the morning breakfasting, packing and faffing, we set off at 1pm in the hope that we would still make it before nightfall. Sure enough, after 2 hours we had reached the peak of the walk, and the half way point. Relieved that we hadn’t lost all our fitness over the last two months we descended into Zhabeshi and set about finding some accommodation for the night. It turns out that there is no shortage of places to stay and for the princely sum of 50 GEL each (about 20 Euro) we were promised three meals, a hot shower and a warm bed in the house of a very friendly, welcoming and persuasive ex Russian pilot. After showers (an unusual luxury for us!) we were treated to a delicious dinner of chicken with cream and garlic, home-made chips, salad, khachapuri (this is the Georgian speciality bread. Think pizza bread with cheese in the middle) and another litre of home-made wine J After having some broken conversation with our host (and Aoife hearing all about his gout), we retired for the night ready for a good sleep. Alas, the RIDICULOUSLY itchy beds only allowed us some broken sleep; proper rest would have to wait for another night! We seemed to escaped any bed bug attack though. No visible bites in the morning…phew!

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8^th October

We rose bleary eyed at 8am and after a fine breakfast (with more scrumptious khachapuri) we were ready to conquer some more Svan mountains. Aoife was starting to see a pattern in the food here which I (as a cheese lover) was yet to notice: EVERYTHING has cheese either on or in it or both! Sure enough, when we stopped for lunch the packed lunches we’d been given had, you guessed it, yet more khachapuri! Luckily we still had some plain bread left from yesterday’s lunch to munch on too. We had reached the top of the climb in record time again, passing a few groups of Israeli tourists on the way up. It turns out that Israelis are a very important tourist group for Georgia and everyone in Svaneti spoke Hebrew. In fact we generally found that unless you were in a tourist establishment like an information office or a restaurant, very few people spoke English; it was more common to be understood with German.

Having climbed to the pass we came across Georgia’s first ski resort under construction which meant that the path we were following had been obliterated by Bulldozers. We happened upon two energetic walkers, Tomek and Kasha, a Polish couple who looked like they knew the way and it turned out they were also heading for Adishi (even to the same guest house our Russian pilot host had recommended). Result! We happily followed them all the way down the valley straight to ‘Gunter’s guesthouse’. We arrived at our destination to a warm welcome, dropped our bags off and headed out for a little supplementary walk up to a nearby Glacier for the afternoon with our new friends.

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We returned back exhausted (an added 3 hours to our hike!), and after a quick trip to the local “supermarket” (someone’s house) to buy 2L of home made wine (Aoife wasn’t happy with just one litre…) we settled in for a delicious evening of dining, drinking and friend making! The second litre turned out vital, as the house filled up and visitors arrived. Guests of nearby homestays heard the commotion and came to join. Hours of fun and chat ensued and our hosts (Jamaica and Nana) even treated us to a great Svaneti traditional music session.

9^th October

We rose, had breakfast, said our goodbyes to all the new people we’d met, tourists and locals alike, and then set off again for our third day of hiking. This time we were to walk along a valley and then climb 700m up to a pass from where we would descend into the next village. The only obstacle in our way was a river that needed fording and which we had given up on for fear of wet, freezing (glacier water!) feet the night before. Despite stern warnings that we needed horses to cross the river, we decided to do it British/ Irish style and take our shoes and socks off and wade! No problem- ‘we may not have big mountains on our islands but we do have plenty of rain and rivers’, we told them! Our feet were bloody freezing after the crossing. Took a while to get the blood flowing again! We marched on. After scaling the mountain, we arrived at the pass. What a spectacular view of the glacier and surrounds! At the top pf the pass, the map showed a further three peaks over 3000m which were just prime for climbing, plus the opportunity to get the first snow on our boots of the season was too much to pass on. These peaks were calling us and we had to answer! After another ascent of 400m we made it to the top and recorded another summit video for your pleasure! After a nice lunch, this time with potato filled bread (and also some bread and cheese) we started the descent. This turned out to be very arduous; the clearly marked path on the map was anything but in reality and we ended up descending 1000m of 45 degree slopes over bracken covered grass and through thick woodland. We gratefully made the bottom just before nightfall and walked into Iprali, hoping to find a taxi back to Mestia. This was not as easy as we thought it would be! Iprali was only a handful of houses, and a single hotel on a very bumpy potholed dirt road. We were assured by a friendly hotel owner that if we walked another 3km down the hill we would find someone to take us home. There was nothing for it but to urge our aching limbs on a bit further!

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We eventually made the bottom of the valley and found someone to take us back to Mestia. The price quoted was ridiculous (we thought) for the 39km journey. We argued but the driver wouldn’t budge. In the end we swallowed our pride and took the taxi; and it turned out to be a reasonable cost for 2hrs 15minutes in a 4×4 over some of the worst roads I have ever been on anyway! Finally back in Mestia, we were reunited with Seline and then went to the same friendly pub on the square where we had passed our first evening. It was heaving with bodies and warmth and music. The hearty stews, soups and home-made wine were exactly what was needed. And a nice surprise was seeing our friends from Adishi again who had all made similar journeys that day. We passed the evening in good company and finally settled back into Seline for the night with our limbs suitably eased J

10^th October

The promised rainfall arrived with a vengeance, and after a cosy lie in listening to the rain pattering on Seline’s roof, we packed up our things and headed down the mountain again. It was my turn to drive the mountain road and the rain had caused rock falls all along the road. Being a bit hungover didn’t really help the situation and we were very glad to make it out of the mountains at Zugdidi where we stopped for food (you guessed it… khachapuri and potato cakes….what else?!). The closer we got to Tblisi the crazier the driving got and by the time we entered the city we were on a highway with 4 or 5 “lanes” of cars but no road markings. Anyway, we eventually found a great little spot in the old town opposite a church for us to spend the night. This would become our home spot in Tbilisi for the next while J

Exhausted from our drive, we walked into the centre of town and were pulled into the first restaurant we came across. It turned out to be a great choice, with typical hearty Georgian food and traditional singing and dancing. We made plans for the morning, first of which was to visit the Kazakhstan embassy and begin the complicated job of getting our Silk Road visas sorted. (This was part of a loose plan which developed and took legs in the preceding few weeks. We still weren’t too sure what exactly we had in mind. But this added to the fun!)

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11^th October

We rose early and after a quick breakfast of coffee and porridge in the van, we decided to tackle the Tblisi metro. Very easy to use- you have to pay using an Oyster like card which you can buy without any form filling. It can be used by two people and every journey is 0.5GEL (about 20p). London take note! We found the Kazakhstan embassy easy enough and as a bonus, discovered the Chinese one on the way. What about China? An idea, perhaps! Thought we might suss it out anyway. Unfortunately, both of these embassies were only open on specific days at specific times (this, we learned, is an embassy phenomenon! 2-3 hours a day 3 days a week is typical opening hours). We would have to come back tomorrow to get anything done. We therefore walked down through the city, through the old town (via the Irish Pub) and then because the walk was so tiring, decided to take the cable car up over the old city, to the old fortress on the hillsJ . Stunning views of a splendid city! After all that sight-seeing we were pooped! Tbilisi is lucky enough to have a hot sulphur spring on which three public baths have been built. We decided that this presented too good an opportunity to miss, and we forked out the princely sum of 3GEL (about 1 euro) to visit the public baths. These are segregated…mens and womens. It took a while to figure out what on earth you were supposed to do there but eventually with some help from the locals (who didn’t speak a word of English…) I found the entrance, stripped naked (like everyone else) and paid an extra 10GEL to get vigorously scrubbed by one of the old guys that worked there. After 8 weeks on the road, getting exfoliated all over was simply heaven and after a scorching bath, a sauna and shower my hour was up all too soon. Vowing to come back for another visit before leaving Tbilisi I found Aoife outside who had had an interesting experience herself…

I, Aoife, also had not a clue what was going on and likewise, no English speakers on my side. I caught the gist eventually. Unfortunately, there was no sauna or bath on the womens side. There was a room with shower heads of steaming hot sulphur water pouring down and marble seating around the edge. Still glorious! The average age of the clientele was about 90! I elected for soap and massage. A big, burly Georgian woman came to find me in the shower room and got me to lie on marble tiles where she got to work. And I have to say, it was one of the finest massages I’ve had! No elbow grease spared! I dragged myself away from the showers eventually. In the small, rackety changing room, I got to work drying myself. A very, frail old lady was already in there, with a towel draped over her tiny shoulders. She scowled at me, and I turned in fright. She scowled again, spoke some sharp-sounding words to me (Georgian I think!) and gestured at the towel on her shoulders. She was butt naked apart from the towel of course! I gathered she wanted my assistance. I tried to take the towel off her shoulders. A shrill scream. She scowled a bit more, then gestured a rubbing action with the towel. Next thing I was awkwardly standing in the changing room, drying the old womans back, willing someone else to come in and save me! No-one came. Eventually, after an eternity I think, I was relieved of my duties as she ushered off away from me. I dried myself quickly and got out, before the next aged-assassin might arrive 😉

Happy, clean and bright we headed back into town for a delicious dinner of Kinkali (like Chinese dumplings), cheap homemade wine and chicken livers J

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qYU9WdvoIq8/WByPmepCEeI/AAAAAAAAJZI/KfMrazsuzvQLkeOhn0S-Ahhi_nE-dz2SQCCo/s144-o/20161011_163556.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107465908523490″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161011_163556.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rFGwqFRN9Kw/WByPmbzalTI/AAAAAAAAJZI/c-Qs6NoVQ8A-UIt-eE9rkrFAhd5fiXp4QCCo/s144-o/20161011_162956.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107465146766642″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161011_162956.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-keov5f8sb8E/WByPmTpkzbI/AAAAAAAAJZI/ObEy28dry6MPFidmBq45xkpynZ9YEYQwACCo/s144-o/20161011_162447.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107462958009778″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161011_162447.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J_vguufTBvM/WByPmdxyS_I/AAAAAAAAJZI/iXRvkfbaX7cbrZ6J4Tx8WvPFJpGmNwsEACCo/s144-o/20161011_162359.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107465676803058″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161011_162359.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LfqwRTnlyxw/WByPmXryAGI/AAAAAAAAJZI/3aHprT6XzAwetPoeEUaPxE0UsbnGhw8pACCo/s144-o/20161011_162257.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107464041005154″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161011_162257.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_JqXdSf8T0A/WByPmbZce2I/AAAAAAAAJZI/f1lMyxBglpE7pwnEL7PLoev4kXJVqHg5gCCo/s144-o/20161011_160428.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107465037839202″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161011_160428.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WWYSBNplDQw/WByPmffRfeI/AAAAAAAAJZI/kURnsH3YjO4Qxm8IXqfEe2pd_RTJyQojQCCo/s144-o/20161011_160150.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107466136026594″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161011_160150.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BwRNw4ZhppU/WByPmU_R5MI/AAAAAAAAJZI/lfDT-o1jZhACS6Ei5zSwFzDjf2XdH839wCCo/s144-o/20161011_160030_001.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107463317480642″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161011_160030_001.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W4ptOmYYYg4/WByPmVW-bSI/AAAAAAAAJZI/38GdVMKmQyU0NvvUFeiikw4osWClnuA5gCCo/s144-o/20161011_160006.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107463416868130″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161011_160006.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5fPHIZBr5pA/WByPmSaBQ8I/AAAAAAAAJZI/17hMQ-eUkZobqGzLdC3aOdFRpqXmqqKXACCo/s144-o/20161011_153540.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107462624330690″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161011_153540.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XP-VbfG4jX0/WByPmSkZ6jI/AAAAAAAAJZI/_YpNN5EfIVoVZ0Ln3UudfaMmjhy5jvDcwCCo/s144-o/20161011_152609.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107462667889202″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161011_152609.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ]

12th October

The problem with getting visas is that you have to give in your passport for days whilst they vet your application. In your home country, this isn’t too much of an issue but abroad it presents something of a logistical challenge! However, Georgia was a lovely country to while away a few days in and what better way to do this that to take in a tour of Kakheti, the famous wine region?! Having dropped Aoife’s passport into the Kazakh embassy we left for Schuchman winery which was the first stop on our little tour.

Georgian wineries produce two different types of wine. The first is the normal European style wine which we are all familiar with, produced with the same equipment used in Europe (steel tanks for fermentation, oak barrels for ageing). Wine produced in the traditional Georgian way is fermented in large underground clay tanks with the skins and stems for at least six months before being drained and aged in oak barrels. We saw both types being made at Schuchman and our tasting included trying the same wines made in the two different styles. For red wine it produces a deeper, richer wine (think Spain or Portugal). For white wine, the traditional style was like nothing we had tasted before. It is rich and powerful like a red wine but with the delicate taste of white. And it turned out, this delicious wine is what we had been drinking all along as “home made” wine in the bars and houses we had frequented.

The other great thing about wine tasting here was that they left the bottles on the table with us and we were allowed to drink our fill of each one. As you might imagine, we got our money’s worth out of this happy event, so much so that it became clear that we couldn’t leave the place without adding to the chaos of the Georgian roads. We therefore asked if we could have a parking space on the grounds for the night in exchange for buying dinner J No problem! So we settled in for the evening, sampled a delicious dinner with more excellent wine (we were particularly taken with a traditionally made red wine, created with the Saperavi grape). After our dinner we made our way back to Seline, but it seems the excitement of the trip to Kazakhstan had taken its toll on Aoife who decorated our quiet corner of the Schuchman estate in her own special way…

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7w7zM2_sWTo/WByPmQZtd2I/AAAAAAAAJZI/2KUvdZeSeDY-vo_deF2VDnqNXBbuDQnNgCCo/s144-o/20161013_130501.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107462086162274″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161013_130501.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ecG4R8kWpoo/WByPmTDaE8I/AAAAAAAAJZI/r8iETJmu1cATZs56bMqQE1S8kaMA92GagCCo/s144-o/IMG-20161012-WA0011.jpeg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107462797923266″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20161012-WA0011.jpeg” image_size=”1836×3264″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iblxfSuKSjg/WByPmf0YL6I/AAAAAAAAJZI/FlsZ7-ffccUbdcxecJ7Q6jr5Hg2wmuKgwCCo/s144-o/20161012_191405.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107466224545698″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161012_191405.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-irdH8BdqKL0/WByPmckDHEI/AAAAAAAAJZI/YlrfgYPSHrUnGgCNUOKLeBaaVTmQS2kWgCCo/s144-o/20161012_190625.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107465350749250″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161012_190625.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C-SAfG3We2U/WByPmTxQPhI/AAAAAAAAJZI/tle-4ngGSF0eTfYhMEBB_JmbqZNcFYAzQCCo/s144-o/20161012_190306.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107462990216722″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161012_190306.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]

13^th October

After the excitement of the previous evening, a lie-in was required. Fortunately, we were also able to partake in a delicious breakfast Chez Schuchman. After getting our money’s worth from the buffet we decided that it was necessary to achieve something with our day and set off to find the Chavchavadze Estate. Despite having our fill of estates and castles over the last few weeks we were genuinely charmed by this one. It was beautifully preserved and filled with gorgeous antiques that Chavchavadze had collected from France, Italy, Russia and Persia during his life. Apparently he brought civilisation to Georgia (not my words, this is what the tour guide said!) along with European methods of wine production. Having seen our fill we were feeling able enough for another round of wine tasting, this time visiting Shumi winery which happily was right next to the estate. This wine tasting was free and we sampled European and Traditional wines again along with some Chacha (local spirit produced with what’s left over after fermenting the grapes. Similar to Grappa) and Brandy. We were then allowed to wander the grape fields and sample the different grapes- delicious! Feeling lubricated we set out to then find Khareba winery.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Mm72UQMt0Ks/WByPma9Od-I/AAAAAAAAJZI/J9r-FGSgmqQVZ0Nwy5KsNv9BcV6Ar76LACCo/s144-o/IMG-20161013-WA0008.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107464919480290″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20161013-WA0008.jpg” image_size=”1600×1200″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d4U0MCUZGBM/WByPmQ_nt2I/AAAAAAAAJZI/xtbGd8OyYTgTMWZci-ksMBGIHWSyer0cACCo/s144-o/IMG-20161013-WA0003.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107462245168994″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20161013-WA0003.jpg” image_size=”1600×1200″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M0gwEGsHhFg/WByPmZ1hNMI/AAAAAAAAJZI/MBX3TRA-pBosXOJom2g3AizzcQR2-H3JwCCo/s144-o/20161013_160014.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107464618718402″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161013_160014.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9qSZbQT0HWI/WByPmW91RBI/AAAAAAAAJZI/nWZB2HUZGg8tP1vkkNL0DTsx6KPfdYZogCCo/s144-o/20161013_151030.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107463848281106″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161013_151030.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

Khareba is the largest of the wineries that we visited, although this didn’t help us to find where it was! After getting lost for about an hour, our hearts sank as we came across what looked like a very commercial operation with tour buses and thronging with people (something we had happily avoided so far). Fortunately, this first impression was obliterated with our best tour so far. Our tour guide Mariam was super friendly, very knowledgeable and despite only buying the basic package (a tour and two wines) we ended up being given six wines, a tour of the Chacha production area (and three shots of chacha each) and some freshly baked bread which was literally lifted out of the stone kiln and handed to us! We ended up staying over at Khareba and upon entering the restaurant it was clear that there was either a party or wedding going on. It turned out to be neither- company team building events are very fun in Georgia it seems! After dinner we were invited to join in with the revelry which included wine and dancing and when they left, we were given two jugs of their wine which was left over! Our experience from the previous night meant we couldn’t hope to drink it all and we decided to leave for Seline before another episode. But not before our waitress arrived with a complimentary bunch of grapes from the vineyard. I say bunch but really we could have opened our own winery with the amount- just check the pictures! We had to ask for a doggy bag and left with a bottle of wine, our bread and enough grapes to feed us for a week of breakfasts! Georgian hospitality is the bomb J

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RMvPASScGNk/WByPmfWRyDI/AAAAAAAAJZI/dSxgHiU4Q4UDI4FkqVBU0iGHzNI3ko8rgCCo/s144-o/IMG-20161013-WA0012.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107466098296882″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20161013-WA0012.jpg” image_size=”1600×1200″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nRaLt7EMClg/WByPmeEenoI/AAAAAAAAJZI/zvw11n7m6m0LF07Rt6_S8xL8QzmyKZitACCo/s144-o/20161013_183920.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107465755205250″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161013_183920.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TMgnoM4p-TI/WByPmQJCI5I/AAAAAAAAJZI/vWd8DvmAPYo7VriYvabQ7ztV-NgUCJWZwCCo/s144-o/20161013_182105.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107462016213906″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161013_182105.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z7BJm-lcZ8Q/WByPmW7lF5I/AAAAAAAAJZI/c7LRPnBa8R8PYIn3yiMmRGrIGdhTMIPnQCCo/s144-o/20161013_182052.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107463838832530″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161013_182052.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g828PQ0RgOQ/WByPmZDVllI/AAAAAAAAJZI/XVt12vsRnjMmHyXmXzVNi4nK57ng47byACCo/s144-o/20161013_182024.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107464408241746″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161013_182024.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iRPIKPTUh_4/WByPmWail3I/AAAAAAAAJZI/qCZi0PAySBAqa3NmFo-VffkuDEAWZ5cqgCCo/s144-o/20161013_175726.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107463700256626″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161013_175726.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

14^th October

We rose early as we had a long day ahead. The plan was to collect Aoifes passport from Kazakhstan and head for Armenia. Google maps had given us a route which would take 4.5 hours from Tbilisi to Yerevan. Even with a border crossing in the way this seemed do-able and we had high hopes of dining in the Armenia capital that evening. How wrong we (And Google) were! It’s hard to describe in words, the roads leading up to the border crossing so we decided to take a video for you to see for yourselves… And the border crossing was our first taste of ex-soviet bureaucracy. Despite only us and two trucks being at the border it took fully 3 hours for the poor border guards to fill in all the forms they needed to do for us. First you had to do passport control where they entered your details and that of Seline into the computer. Next we went to customs where we had to pay road tax, insurance and a “broker fee” (all legit btw, we checked afterwards!). After this, they had to take all the paperwork and get it checked by the boss… Finally, just as we thought we were free to go, came the actual check of the van to see if we had any customable items in it. Luckily we were saved by a guy who turned up with what appeared to be a boot full of satsumas (literally a whole boot). We were waved on, exhausted from the experience and started looking for somewhere to sleep. We eventually found a deserted warehouse to park outside just off the main road in a depressing town. We cooked and drank and tried to shake of the feeling that we had just swapped Georgian heaven for Armenian hell…

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L-m12UIbM3o/WByPmR-SxYI/AAAAAAAAJZI/FBD71WMwLX0v9n10JVaBnR6LbeAlK4OxQCCo/s144-o/20161014_175956.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107462508037506″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161014_175956.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mxv7O8Symbk/WByPmWLACFI/AAAAAAAAJZI/illvc7EXCjE8pddz3AbirOjmZYhRsuMrwCCo/s144-o/20161014_175544.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6349107465678896881#6349107463635077202″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161014_175544.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

Turkish Delights

MINDFUL TO AVOID ANY CHEESY, TABLOID WRITING, WE HAVE CALLED THIS NEXT BLOG SECTION …. TURKISH DELIGHTS! J

18th September

First day in Istanbul, we were keen to explore. This is a city of 14 million people. A bustling, exciting city where east meets west. We’d positioned ourselves near Sultanahamet, the Old Quarter, and so we began our sightseeing there. We took in Topkapi Palace, the huge and impressive residence of the sultans and leaders of the ottoman empire down through the years. The tour of the palace and its surrounds gave us a great, vivid impression of life at the time in the ottoman empire and the grandeur enjoyed by the aristocracy. So much to take in though! After a few hours we were saturated with information and decided to make our way towards the bazaars! But first we stopped by the Blue mosque and ventured inside, donning some fine gear as seen in photo. Pay particular admiration to the flattering skirt Seb was given to cover his legs. Kim Kardashian would be jealous…. 😉

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Aa8HK399IzQ/WASGCyg1aKI/AAAAAAAAIVs/s1BGlQLFkPc0adAjWOrNi3OgtywF-nW8wCCo/s144-o/20160918_134441.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341557721852066″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160918_134441.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F92NfqOScQg/WASGC-m44wI/AAAAAAAAIVs/6e6yjgvtPuwNAR8N2obaPH-ckHgdgEWIwCCo/s144-o/20160918_121435_001.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341560968471298″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160918_121435_001.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N20nWr5ngCo/WASGC8T3dII/AAAAAAAAIVs/fMLHxlOX-L4GmykTQi18Lw3LFkqG6OV5QCCo/s144-o/20160918_113631.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341560351814786″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160918_113631.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JUdVfWAIExo/V-1nFXerYWI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/NMsCT2soc4wtPexLYBHm9d8S83Q9BG3LwCCo/s144-o/20160918_113611.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833592679850338″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160918_113611.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-26MEkt6ImdM/V-1nFVcmj-I/AAAAAAAAG4Y/vTxShQ3rQI4aPC2HGhhiZ-ikURsgUq25ACCo/s144-o/20160918_112632.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833592134275042″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160918_112632.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-015vJ1VGQbI/V-1nFRDD67I/AAAAAAAAG4Y/iZI13lmefFofcQGx3PYHkjpCdvr2n_8JQCCo/s144-o/20160918_112316.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833590953405362″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160918_112316.jpg” image_size=”1944×2592″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B_3l2PWghOs/WASGC_bWIRI/AAAAAAAAIVs/vbz2urz4DLQRz7ZSqvFlVBkcv4x3p01SwCCo/s144-o/20160918_112301.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341561188491538″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160918_112301.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W6Ei2JqxJTU/WASGC67ZUmI/AAAAAAAAIVs/GSZe7tN-1Pk2TWc3Qwtbcp9cyHmcx6eDQCCo/s144-o/20160918_112249.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341559980741218″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160918_112249.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

The bazaars are a sight to behold in Istanbul. All sorts of wares being sold. Bustling activity all around. So many colours, smells, sights. Trying to take in all the activity but at the same time avoid contact with the vendors. Not really possible. To cries all-around of “I want your money, Sir!” we were lured into shops and stalls of all sorts. Textiles, carpets, leather goods, chess sets, tea sets, bags, purses…. The list goes on!

The spice bazaar is a real treat for the senses. Enticing colours and smells everywhere. Stalls of spices, teas and sweets of all varieties. We tried plenty and picked up some Turkish delight and apple and traditional tea along the way. Have a look at what else was on offer. The Viagra tea is a big seller apparently! Works wonders I’d say!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GxRy5pbKEYs/WASGCw8E_XI/AAAAAAAAIVs/kMq7lFVk7Qk2uAEvylvRMog7vaOEgOjHwCCo/s144-o/20160918_151633.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341557299248498″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160918_151633.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jDJoMXo5BP0/V-1nFQUDPAI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/iE7SMK-22RgZuyhtt4KIrcwL6okUTPiqgCCo/s144-o/20160918_151628.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833590756228098″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160918_151628.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]

After the bazaars, we hopped on a boat trip that went up and down the Bosphorus river. As the sun was setting at the end of the trip, we stopped off for a beer on the riverfront then made our way in a cable car to Beyglou, the trendy district on the hill. Here, we went for traditional Turkish mezes, washed down with the local tipple of choice, Raki. Some musicians happened to be sitting at the table next to us and a sing song ensued, making for a great night of fun, and a lucky insight for us into a traditional Turkish music session. See the video below.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y-9Ouk74NQQ/WASGC03rsVI/AAAAAAAAIVs/W52u36XyFLk7ariNcOHmX18UTSm_sVucQCCo/s144-o/20160918_223614.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341558354555218″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160918_223614.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2hd5vvvopcc/WASGCyOfzaI/AAAAAAAAIVs/0MUiRgdmA7E1XlM7Qjj4-uqh02Z1XTrNQCCo/s144-o/20160918_192311.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341557644938658″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160918_192311.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j5Zp2LAXiUQ/V_ALoQKBkSI/AAAAAAAAHDU/0DiHpXmcGbQfzVzWbOv0PDlizjpb56KagCCo/s144-o/20160918_190318.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6336577461869973794″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160918_190318.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V6RGWhfHeRE/WASGC9Oz_OI/AAAAAAAAIVs/nSy4buZsQ9wJEBwQudl_b2Xlfvwvq6g-gCCo/s144-o/20160918_190311.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341560599051490″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160918_190311.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WCTt0VC-oZE/V-1nFQ4ij9I/AAAAAAAAG4k/IL2ExKLfDkUJ01JAQc0R617oKZ-e-PwUACCo/s144-o/20160918_181904.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833590909276114″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160918_181904.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HrICskolLX8/V-1nFfTNg3I/AAAAAAAAG4Y/8VlPQtV545ourBxn6Uh8Vo5humujWKFxgCCo/s144-o/20160918_181816.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833594779239282″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160918_181816.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ha_zL2IOpjc/V-1nFWiM3qI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/lLCcSWV4baY16ORRVhD3BKpncdgv-D-wQCCo/s144-o/20160918_181506.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833592426192546″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160918_181506.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-p6gtDLZhoZg/WASGCw0RZjI/AAAAAAAAIVs/YWMpYrMXt84Eh2dpb5la9OdREsZoEs8QQCCo/s144-o/20160918_172846.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341557266507314″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160918_172846.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TbBQtWpZFs0/V-1nFdf3zhI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/SZYWbK-T2iMOSQU7m_JdP9IvQOn-yH7xACCo/s144-o/20160918_165916.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833594295471634″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160918_165916.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G_wT3J9QX1U/V-1nFZoe-vI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/BLHeVx–VbUQgYhC4jGaADi5jySSISPwwCCo/s144-o/20160918_161211.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593257851634″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160918_161211.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ]

19th September

Another fun filled day in Istanbul exploring the sights and wandering around the bazaars. We ventured into the Hagia Sofia, the very famed mosque, now a museum, which was constructed as a Christian Basilica during the Byzantine empire and was converted to a mosque when Constantinople was conquered by the Ottomans. There is therefore both Christian and Muslim paraphernalia throughout…. weird and interesting, and a very impressive building!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Yi7D2EbreM0/WASGC5WCxJI/AAAAAAAAIVs/_9heMpwF0fYLbGfwBRWTYvi7qKthfcSywCCo/s144-o/20160919_145406.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341559555638418″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160919_145406.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T5iUY5z-5vo/V-1nFT-1ndI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/CJoqCF7qiowtdyEE1YwBrgggqNCcJnAiQCCo/s144-o/20160919_142420.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833591740997074″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160919_142420.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_KDQMydkV80/V-1nFd40QwI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/cUZ3skp03xE0gWcXJf7gHJrunhedmejggCCo/s144-o/20160919_141520_001.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833594400097026″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160919_141520_001.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]

There was more wandering to be done around Sultanahamet, through the cobbled streets and bazaars in the afternoon. we resisted buying all the tempting clobber…. where would we fit it in the van after all? We did buy a backgammon board though, in Turkish style, and then found a bar where Seb taught me the rules, and I swiftly annihilated him J

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-21m_a8RmJFg/V-1nFfLPmII/AAAAAAAAG4Y/n64khGTJm3oGaG4i4c40ECQmnkh97CN6QCCo/s144-o/20160919_175235.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833594745821314″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160919_175235.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LjehR3mKqmM/V-1nFeTReLI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/WidxSpGuwYMcrjEwqzaRYlkZvLMSMyOHACCo/s144-o/20160919_150026.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833594511063218″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160919_150026.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xLUopS68Hh4/V-1nFRBLvRI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/ZDJCWFGwMRwxNRRnjtvyNifcMU8GgttXACCo/s144-o/20160919_145931.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833590945529106″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160919_145931.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XocwR4CnE1I/V-1nFW2bSbI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/udasNAg43LoBfopsBj8eStzfrTlSqBsIwCCo/s144-o/20160919_114646.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833592511023538″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160919_114646.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

For dinner we wandered through the fish market on the banks of the river, and sat in the small restaurant, situated in the middle of the market, and ate the finest (and cheapest) fish we’d had in a long time! This place is a must visit if you like fish and end up in Istanbul!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Te4bzubeYsI/WASGC_6fNwI/AAAAAAAAIVs/jcqCRlIAmNkA2mmlToMBG4vY-bb06XOlgCCo/s144-o/20160919_205227.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341561319110402″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160919_205227.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ]

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nLDc-B-zhFs/V-1nFdFCYgI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/gcncq8pjktEgf7IBQ1zCeSlw3Dniyv-OACCo/s144-o/20160918_193057.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833594182918658″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160918_193057.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

We finished up with some shisha smoking and Raki sipping, in true Turkish style J

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G4I4yBaHlTs/WASGC37fc3I/AAAAAAAAIVs/cStjF2osg0oa1PIvtZSjBG0i3_iTfg-_gCCo/s144-o/20160919_211740.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341559175836530″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160919_211740.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jV6LISmOeHY/WASGC6U_9_I/AAAAAAAAIVs/yiJlHx4Dl_k9tvXvHB_8YRZ8o6Gp0EAqACCo/s144-o/20160919_211442.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341559819696114″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160919_211442.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]

20th September

As mentioned earlier, Seb’s computer had packed in when we were in Bulgaria, and we had been unsuccessful at finding anyone who could repair it or even find out what the problem was. With an essay deadline looming, and a blog not updated for weeks, we devoted a day to sorting this problem out. What a giant faff! We went from small street shops, to mall superstores, and ended up crossing the length and breadth of Istanbul (at rush hour) to get to the manufacturers office. We were assured we would get sorted here. Alas, this was not so! The guy here couldn’t help us. Feeling dejected and wet (it suddenly started to lash rain out of the heavens), we got a kebab, and decided to drive towards the hills to park up in a quiet spot for the night. En route we saw a small little computer repair shop. Seb was keen to have another go, so he got out to chat to the guys in the shop. They ended up being most hospitable and welcoming. Despite no shared language skills, we managed to communicate by sign and ended up with cups of tea in our hands and them switching on some old Colin Firth film on their big cable TV in the shop…. just like home J. They couldn’t solve the problem there and then, but promised a solution by morning. So we made for the remote hills overlooking the city and set ourselves up for a quiet night’s sleep. I should mention here, that a quiet night was our main objective after 3 nights in the Istanbul car park, where we’d endured late night shenanigans in the form of ghetto-blasters playing dodgy music, vendors selling pretzels and fishermen having shouting matches at each other in the mornings…. all a bit hectic. And some homeless passers by causing trouble in the mix too. Lots of fun and games. The lonely hills were a welcome change!

21st September True to their word, the computer was fixed and we hit the Istanbul highway, bound for some ancient history and coastal waters. Our aim was to reach the coast, and stop whenever we ran out of steam. We passed Gallipoli and parked up late in the evening in a small stretch of sandy coast that we found a few kilometres off the main road. The town had restaurants and sun loungers, but was completely deserted, apart from us and a couple of restauranteurs and shop owners who hadn’t yet shut down for the end of season. We found one cosy bar, and enjoyed delicious fresh fish there before parking up for night.

22^nd September: We made our way towards Cannakale this morning and ferried across the peninsula to get to the ancient city of Troy. We took in the ruins and then of course horsed around in the wooden horse…. Had to be done J. That night we stayed in a harbour town further along the coast and sampled lots of tasty kebab.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-17iYpZkSe3g/WASGC8t44gI/AAAAAAAAIVs/9XwAuOLhEMkdaA2e4sQJ2lpUmvlilyCcACCo/s144-o/20160922_142418.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341560460960258″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160922_142418.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VRugi27Y60I/WASGC7N3hKI/AAAAAAAAIVs/_Mxm-HpF3hcIQ55zlxzJOf5vrecoMzvFQCCo/s144-o/20160922_133907.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341560058217634″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160922_133907.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ue3VqkCCXmc/WASGC-OxMKI/AAAAAAAAIVs/C1qKUjT6smU0n9zPN75jKbAJi0I-xAdCACCo/s144-o/20160922_133732.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341560867303586″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160922_133732.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

23rd September

Our mission this morning was to work out which gas we could use to cook in the camper in Turkey. It varies from country to country; some countries don’t sell gas, some with the right gas but the wrong connectors etc. etc. Seb can tell you an interesting storey about it some time you have an hour (or three) to kill 😉 This produces a problem when you run out, and are dying for a cup of tea! In the end we found it in the “gas shop”- it didn’t occur to us that there might be a shop dedicated to selling gas and associated paraphernalia! The nice lady inside helped us find the right thing and we even managed to get another cup of tea from her while we waited J

We drove further south to Ephesus to check out the ruins of this ancient, lost city. These were a very impressive sight. This city had been rebuilt over and over again down the ages, from the far BC’s. Libraries, temples, churches, theatres, baths, bedrooms were all on display. Most impressive, I felt, was the toilet facilities! Referred to as the latrines, it seems these people shared a very uninviting stone, square room in which to get rid of their business. There was seating around the room. Why you might want to sit here and have the chats is beyond me altogether, but different strokes for different folk J

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GzQyS8uGTQY/WASGCzYatkI/AAAAAAAAIVs/oVhdGxzgeOgZlmoDmEYY4-kiav0ldNE_ACCo/s144-o/20160923_164259.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341557954983490″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160923_164259.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZVZT2uqWtjQ/WASGC7dqKOI/AAAAAAAAIVs/_flqkQpuLCo_CobW4BLeVhdWdm1J4SZKACCo/s144-o/20160923_163609.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341560124451042″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160923_163609.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NKF-Sy1HDzI/WASGC3MPsDI/AAAAAAAAIVs/i_xkzLCW1FscY3szTtC_Z44vBofa_fj8QCCo/s144-o/20160923_163500.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341558977671218″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160923_163500.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q_6C0pfwiVA/WASGCznbFSI/AAAAAAAAIVs/QSL_fXXzD6w-XjAlP4cKwM2GofgRkBdpACCo/s144-o/20160923_163409.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341558017922338″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160923_163409.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ja0xsjZfcSc/WASGC00SzTI/AAAAAAAAIVs/Qvj1grhRRhM0smYq_C64sKuODDjvqxxnwCCo/s144-o/20160923_162044.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341558340341042″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160923_162044.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

Later that evening, we found a sandy beach south of Selcuk to park on and cook ourselves a nice dinner (with fresh market fish) which we ate while the waves rushed in. The police noticed us, a lone van parked on the beach. They drove up, ‘what are you doing here?’. ‘Holidays’ we retorted. Big smiles from them, ‘enjoy Turkey’. It seems the word ‘holidays’ is the word to get you out of any sticky situation with police we have learned J

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z3dI4s6Hzr4/WASGC2Teh7I/AAAAAAAAIVs/Bdpw4r2nHIwjwykGmSQPiWiStoTiolyggCCo/s144-o/20160924_095719.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341558739568562″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160924_095719.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

September 24/25th

We drove south to the beautiful fishing and sailing town of Fethiye on the south west coast. This is a beautiful, pretty town well worth a visit. We had a run on the marina and then drove south and by chance, found the most amazing, secluded and beautiful beach, hidden away below the hills of the stunning Lycian coast route. Have a look at the photos! We parked up on the pebble beach and enjoyed two days of swimming, sunbathing and barbequing on the rocks, with hardly any other visitors about… heaven!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-32ZukGDDWvo/WASGC4Y3nfI/AAAAAAAAIVs/bGAKsUNcjMowlS3QACdP8wt2izq_f4ozACCo/s144-o/20160925_191601.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341559299055090″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160925_191601.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u77rpCu4Rzc/WASGC9BItzI/AAAAAAAAIVs/6ikx356HodQe4QOjfzv2cSm-b6cW20tbgCCo/s144-o/20160925_184826.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341560541689650″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160925_184826.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5aFip5u7zxo/WASGCye6CfI/AAAAAAAAIVs/GKIEvTH9efIoVezf6p7zu6iFUTq_9uaywCCo/s144-o/20160925_174242.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341557713766898″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160925_174242.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0I9Rs1Jr2gc/WASGC61hNXI/AAAAAAAAIVs/MYNywtNqhlw5v8t9lfxzoa_NYV7K8qCzgCCo/s144-o/20160925_174125.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341559956092274″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160925_174125.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f8JOVhB0Vi0/WASGCytTjXI/AAAAAAAAIVs/JsFSOXc2xnYDEG4bLbEsveS_X14pknw2wCCo/s144-o/20160925_173716.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341557774159218″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160925_173716.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R8b4sTzldf8/WASGC1uON_I/AAAAAAAAIVs/LzPtmmpqTagfHOVKvlos-930IcgNXLa4QCCo/s144-o/20160925_095438.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341558583310322″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160925_095438.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J3b-kzfs_eg/WASGCxY3fJI/AAAAAAAAIVs/CFciJQuzf1UKGkWhMwAaFt5IJzRVenfBACCo/s144-o/20160925_095404.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341557419998354″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160925_095404.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yEwLPYT6Tvk/WASGC16G6nI/AAAAAAAAIVs/v4iV6bN-_NwT8tkiM4t-RGBmOnhVMQdBgCCo/s144-o/20160925_095358.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341558633163378″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160925_095358.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nIx9WORXPxI/WASGC2CHh7I/AAAAAAAAIVs/lU83eeNnV-MisqlOgEjASkNiyb1eGcvEACCo/s144-o/20160924_213530_001.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341558666758066″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160924_213530_001.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zIaOjiV_YzY/WASGC89ku6I/AAAAAAAAIVs/YehEgi33gvwNMNFtkJwjyLd0APhteDspwCCo/s144-o/20160924_200223.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341560526748578″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160924_200223.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7Ve9EwRxUB8/WASGCx35SXI/AAAAAAAAIVs/00uP-PKCyrQLStSQXGmc0WR0ZuiQ7NJuACCo/s144-o/20160924_154153.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341557550139762″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160924_154153.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

September 26th

Reluctantly, we left our beach and drove south towards Oludeniz. This place is a bit of a costa-del-sol job (you’ll see from photos). But there were things to do around it, and places to see, so we added it to the itinerary. First we walked part of the famous Lycian Way, and then we parked up in a carpark and checked out the main drag in Oludeniz.

What a place! Prices in pounds everywhere. Check out the breakfast menus on the restaurants…. Aldi beans people (are they even a thing?!) Tesco sausages! What more could you want for?!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-udUakUm6lLY/WASGC-zwu-I/AAAAAAAAIVs/Lr7EOw79WpIqF2yoOME3st6FjtRoHG7IwCCo/s144-o/20160927_110434.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341561022462946″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160927_110434.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zgX36ObgwT8/WASGC-TOcXI/AAAAAAAAIVs/QWAsxOD-8OUU3FdFhD3qF3025oSn5IrgACCo/s144-o/20160926_145747.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341560885997938″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160926_145747.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0nssh9QyWeo/WASGCwOHKKI/AAAAAAAAIVs/Deoaey1GV3Ye8LAQ7tkn5bmiBSu194gegCCo/s144-o/20160926_141916-PANO.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341557106452642″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160926_141916-PANO.jpg” image_size=”3864×1472″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fhywBIODGys/WASGC7D51FI/AAAAAAAAIVs/0Z86dHyOxhITnOSqvc55ytQirfWlSqAEgCCo/s144-o/20160926_141721.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341560016426066″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160926_141721.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

September 27th

The fun thing about this town is that it’s the main hub for paragliding in Tukey. The huge cliffs and jaw dropping views lend themselves to this. So we signed up and got in a minibus and made the long vertical ascent to the top. This was scary! You’re tied to an instructor, but you have to voluntarily run off a cliff edge that’s a thousand metres above the sea below you. Hopefully these videos/photos upload properly. Totally worth it. Great fun!!!

After coming down from the paragliding, (both physically and emotionally J), we drove south in search of more secluded beaches. Anything we could find close by was shut off to the public, so we settled on a small car park, unsure where we were. It was pitch dark by now. We cooked up some food and then nodded off.

September 28/29th

We woke to find we had parked at Butterfly Valley. This was the start point to a canyon trek which was well frequented by tourist hikers. So we thought we’d better do the hike too. It was a lovely 2 hour hike up and down the valley, with great views and not to mention a beer at the bottom. No butterflies mind you…. not one! Returning to our parking spot we noticed a small hotel perching from the cliff tops. It looked totally idyllic with views of the valley, small cute cottages and even an outdoor pool. We wandered in to use the Wi-Fi, and after a chat we were told we could park up on the grounds, use the pool and showers and all the rest, and the offer of a cheap dinner and breakfast deal was on offer if we wanted. We really couldn’t say no! We were drawn particularly by the freshwater pool and, wait for it, a warm shower. It had been quite some time since we’d had this indulgence. 18 days if I’m honest! Don’t get me wrong, we had lots of sea dips, and we used a jug and water to improvise a make-shift shower along the way. But you can’t beat the real thing J.

Anyway, the swim and shower were divine, as was the delicious dinner he served up! Hotel Montenegro, at Butterfly Valley. Can’t recommend enough. So good we stayed a second night!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uC9KS6_-rf0/WASGC4GP02I/AAAAAAAAIVs/GchjpkOVUok_2tB_iaqU-IW2Wt1p4TY7wCCo/s144-o/20160928_191131.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341559220949858″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160928_191131.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3QXdFae8_Gk/WASGC1se-iI/AAAAAAAAIVs/EIZu8oPSfT4N53_yHeH7tqnATOdgIsZ7wCCo/s144-o/20160928_160304.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341558576020002″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160928_160304.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3bb6dVBoIqs/WASGC9qh0dI/AAAAAAAAIVs/ipaalKWqhF8wM7-VCPWq0zHulDZ9DUK_gCCo/s144-o/20160928_155631.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341560715301330″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160928_155631.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

The second night followed on from a boat trip we drove back to Oludeniz to catch. This was a day long trip we were coerced into by a ticket seller on the beach. 5 euro, with lunch included! We couldn’t not go! It turned out to be a great day. Jumping off boats, snorkelling, swimming in the turquoise seas, eating some tasty fish, and watching the Turkish holiday makers get groovy to the sound of some local tunes on the booming boat stereo…. good fun J

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mFk7apDvXQ8/WASGC2kV3OI/AAAAAAAAIVs/h4pnpq3RLGEiLBa2kXD2osTZv41fJxY9QCCo/s144-o/20160929_171720.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341558810303714″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160929_171720.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Cfhf5mrPC4U/WASGC41UKpI/AAAAAAAAIVs/VmSMS8iXCesNZq4ZrJasNP9BVCr2ErfbACCo/s144-o/20160929_120040.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341559418366610″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160929_120040.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]

September 30TH

We drove on further south, this time towards Antalya. This was a long day’s slog behind the wheel, but some awesome views along the breath-taking south coast! The highlight of this day was Seb finishing and submitting his essay for his Masters course, which he had been chipping away at for the previous few weeks. Good to get that out of the way! We made our way towards Olympos and settled on the beach in the pretty town of Cirali nearby. Then we had some Bulgarian brandy to celebrate the submission J.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-D9esNBt6lpM/WASGC_AM7XI/AAAAAAAAIVs/onNkOjBE1gI6rdUaNwYI8U3HaIK_Up0kQCCo/s144-o/20161001_094234.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341561074642290″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161001_094234.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zAKplopVIdU/WASGC1fdFFI/AAAAAAAAIVs/UQYi-zfTn7UbijOlrZFcyXqlOyfsnDZDACCo/s144-o/20161001_094040.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341558521369682″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161001_094040.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tLaPEVgVT2w/WASGC5szj6I/AAAAAAAAIVs/HU6vX_pjuU4GFWaPODruTjutFeoG-A1AACCo/s144-o/20161001_092808.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341559651110818″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161001_092808.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H7Q5ubfGZx8/WASGC38DB1I/AAAAAAAAIVs/d9Nil8z0wBEAwuMpth3A6MmpQGj2xtRnACCo/s144-o/20160930_170629.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341559178168146″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160930_170629.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ]

October 1st

We awoke to a fine October in Cirali, with soaring temperatures. Almost too hot! J One last dip in the sea and then we drove inland, destined for the city of Konya, home of the whirling dervishes. This is a traditional Turkish Muslim ceremony, which takes place in the huge and very modern Islamic centre in Konya. It involves some musicians and about 20 dancers, who live like monks and are devout worshippers of Allah. The wear red, white and black cloaks, and spin in circles as musicians play and passages are read from the Koran. Really, really unusual and fascinating to see. Video below! Not being familiar with Konya, and it being dark, after the show (which was totally free I might add!), we parked up outside the Hilton and availed of their Wi-Fi while slowing nursing two extortionately priced bottles of Effes beer! Then we parked up for the night, just outside the carpark on a side road/taxi rank. No-one seemed to mind anyway. Or at least, they never told us if they did J.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2MmW9_DLmYU/WASGC6EcnDI/AAAAAAAAIVs/41K4LSaSCXMWovcX5QwFDnnQQAN9UEvHgCCo/s144-o/20161001_193512.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341559750270002″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161001_193512.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XkqVoAaF3M4/WASGC8b2JFI/AAAAAAAAIVs/jBM7u7MnW0wOdBF44Wi-29BR5yZd4N2_ACCo/s144-o/20161001_193422.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341560385283154″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161001_193422.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

2nd October

We hit the road early this morning, eager to get to our destination, Goreme in Cappadocia, where we had a hotel booked to stay in!!! We were very excited about this. It had been a while since we’d had such a luxury. And they’d had showers there too for sure…. oh joy!J Cappadocia is a really, really cool area in central Turkey, where there are the most unusual of rock formations. And where in ancient times, people lived in caves in the rocks. Entire cities existed underground and were built and extended to protect the resident Christian populations from invading Arabic and eastern Muslim groups in the region. We decided to visit one of these ancient cave towns. Now en route to the town, we had a little logistical set back in the form of a flat tyre. Squashed to non-existence on the axle. Not a hope of salvation L. Luckily I had the skills to solve the dilemma, and could guide Seb through the changing of the tyre J

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xRnqELq0jzY/WASGCwTwKiI/AAAAAAAAIVs/553q1SpPDhIZq5OsMCZpllFOY8uJ2lmvACCo/s144-o/20161002_142327.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341557130111522″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161002_142327.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mUrIYTDnUQA/WASGC1TajwI/AAAAAAAAIVs/9JzTbs68_ggRj8Qi3cHvLWVRNiAP9NoTwCCo/s144-o/20161002_142139.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341558470872834″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161002_142139.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YpP-wkveqEw/WASGC7nswZI/AAAAAAAAIVs/HjmxCV2t70wgG4PkNgRr1-1ggLjjJx3PwCCo/s144-o/20161002_142125.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341560166564242″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161002_142125.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CmO7KW8Ek2w/WASGCzB0_PI/AAAAAAAAIVs/pSzag_ytwVYFjd4ZOD4MfFRuat1LqVcfACCo/s144-o/20161002_141016.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341557860236530″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161002_141016.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U1aO4D-7lOg/WASGC5wRZiI/AAAAAAAAIVs/Dq4CZ60jtKog1SgJfoclK1cfKWAXGVAhQCCo/s144-o/20161002_122635.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341559665649186″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161002_122635.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ]

Luckily he’d picked up a spare before we left London in August. Not just a pretty face 😉 . So with our new tyre, we journeyed on to the cave town. This was fascinating. To imagine how entire villages lived, for months, in these confined circumstances was really something of amazement. They had their livestock with them in the caves too! Interestingly, they managed to make wine down in the caves too…. man’s priorities clearly were, then, precisely the same as they are to this day J. See the photos below. Those things which look like urinals were in fact wine tankards. Seb was perfectly proportioned for the caves… fitted right in in! J

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pyh5osMVs_U/WASIadYmKnI/AAAAAAAAIWE/w2xzQWe8z3YaGnLf8Yz5kf22LP-5plQ6wCCo/s144-o/IMG-20161017-WA0009.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342344163390270066″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20161017-WA0009.jpg” image_size=”1200×1600″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cv27OqKwA5Q/WASGC26NztI/AAAAAAAAIVs/NK5Mf4YeHt0fnDfzxJcmeHajuiDlSpdGwCCo/s144-o/20161002_155927.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341558902050514″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161002_155927.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ESPptzpbrhQ/WASGC9ZbJPI/AAAAAAAAIVs/5sam6gEZySsBUsWDBY8suQeF9TUgYEwrQCCo/s144-o/20161002_154536.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341560643560690″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161002_154536.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9pl6MtMYZA0/WASGC_eeK3I/AAAAAAAAIVs/6umZb8J41UkYiepVsjdKS4d2I8axv-UjACCo/s144-o/20161002_154518.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341561201601394″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161002_154518.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bxEnXNMsTf4/WASGCx7nZWI/AAAAAAAAIVs/1c8E0BKwTl4-1X7FkyjU-RSPt5rvodSwwCCo/s144-o/20161002_154250.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341557565744482″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161002_154250.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CSnVOXUDuos/WASGCy1DW5I/AAAAAAAAIVs/RZx7Cjs_744YIcQU2cx0GV7JdA1TuOAqACCo/s144-o/20161002_154150.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341557806652306″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161002_154150.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RxNNf5ozblI/WASGCzTnDbI/AAAAAAAAIVs/at3SvNWFtagGztEsmKEIarqwdtEF2QiNwCCo/s144-o/20161002_153900.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341557934820786″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161002_153900.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PiQyHpAY_2s/WASGC1hCX2I/AAAAAAAAIVs/FhiqBpOol08JIBoLg3Fxb7MIAptE3WeNQCCo/s144-o/20161002_153340.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341558528008034″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161002_153340.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c17coliWJqs/WASGCzQgIFI/AAAAAAAAIVs/yFSWFg1r-boBJPSoK7G3dF9FnkFZHIuZwCCo/s144-o/20161002_153125.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341557921783890″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161002_153125.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

We later reached Goreme, and settled into our most awesome cave room! Have a look at pictures! It was once the chapel, and at a later time the pigeon coup in the cave in which it was built! It was beyond cool! Also, really comfy and cosy! And, of course, the hotel surrounds were heavenly and lovely with a little pool, a balcony with splendid views of the town, and some primo hot power showers J . We had pida for dinner. This is local cuisine of pizza bread covered in cheese and various other tasty bits…. yummy! Then some drinks and tea before bed.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WarB36AF82E/WASGC8Y7uII/AAAAAAAAIVs/LHvVV6IHcKc59fIAc4tEB3DbQlxwoikcgCCo/s144-o/20161003_131309.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341560373065858″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161003_131309.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rrDvxQhzMWs/WASGCwpkntI/AAAAAAAAIVs/comfOIX_f_sJ-FbEa-PZObpLHT-blD9fACCo/s144-o/20161003_112836.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341557221629650″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161003_112836.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pOVayBkun6M/WASGC0bUYMI/AAAAAAAAIVs/OgQ4pJLeis063M0oGF0GAzrPX8YSygPDgCCo/s144-o/20161003_112743.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341558235586754″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161003_112743.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-83kZBsKmB0A/WASGC3arVEI/AAAAAAAAIVs/1WJCUrKYYuohywNKhNH4TFQYx32oP3C3ACCo/s144-o/20161003_112737.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341559038202946″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161003_112737.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nSimt9n6j7w/WASGC0SPBLI/AAAAAAAAIVs/j-_e2ILWIaIy5zgH_QG93aLGALp7vclUACCo/s144-o/20161002_162534.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342341558197486770″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161002_162534.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

October 3rd

We got up at the crack of dawn to see about fifty hot air balloons take off into the sky at once! This is a beautiful, beautiful sight! A dawn balloon ride is a phenomenon lots of tourist come to the region to enjoy. We chose to watch instead of balloon ourselves. Far cheaper! J

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We then set off to cover some more miles on our journey across the gigantic country of Turkey. En route we needed to replace the broken tyre so we once again had a spare. Either we payed far over the odds or the owner was very friendly. In any case the chai, cigarettes and stories of England were flowing once again J

We powered on along the road, until we could drive no further! Exhausted and so far off the beaten track that even the traffic police don’t bother showing up for work here (see photo:)), we gave up as we came near a very, very tiny, very, very rural town in north east Turkey. We picked up some groceries, then found a parking spot in the surrounding hills and made our dinner. An impromptu sing song and drinking session followed on well into the night. Sometimes you’re just in a party mood J

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l5RJMWHrs0A/WASHeu9joUI/AAAAAAAAIVs/aslskQyl2S4k45ms9OJBlLiKmMmnyq09wCCo/s144-o/20161004_122105.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342343137316544834″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161004_122105.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R-EgbEr-6g8/WASHek3sI-I/AAAAAAAAIVs/2n7YzXopTmIvY4v5pmf1FkTe1hM19Tx6QCCo/s144-o/20161004_122056.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342343134607582178″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161004_122056.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c_wQF8B4HD4/WASHeulywDI/AAAAAAAAIVs/qJUmWITR-lQKAnJNynnZVjnDP2p3oQ5DACCo/s144-o/20161004_095147.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342343137216872498″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161004_095147.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/—2QytBetkM/WASHellRf-I/AAAAAAAAIVs/wUUA2qp3H9Y6eQFXxMF_vKkHCj4qwcU1gCCo/s144-o/20161004_095142.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342343134798774242″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161004_095142.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

October 4th

A wee bit weary and hungover, we drove onwards for the day, passing into more and more remote territory as we went. By the time we reached the northernmost past of Turkey, near the border with Georgia, we decided it was time to stop. It was already after 8, and border crossings can take hours upon hours, so better to settle for the night and cross in the morning. We found a quiet spot on the outskirts of town, nestled in some trees, near but not adjacent to some houses. I got in the back and started getting some dinner ready. All of a sudden we heard this atrociously loud, haunting wail from outside the van. It was like a banshee on Halloween night or something. We pieced together that it must be an old woman, coming down from her house to move us along off the site. Seb went out to chat with her J What ensued was priceless. She wailed loudly, more and more so as he approached. I followed and tried a smiling technique (actually Aoife cowered in the van…). That wasn’t working either. Seb gesticulated and spoke calmly in a hope of gaining her trust. He then told her, ‘I am English. Tourist.’ The wail reached its pinnacle and we swiftly turned on our feet, shut the doors and left for dust. The wail continued until we were a good distance away! We eventually found a quiet spot a mile further on and slept there and calming down after the commotion! In the morning we had visitors again…. this time another old lady but looking down at the van with more friendly curiosity J. We made our way to the border crossing. There was a bit of a queue forming so we started to cook up some porridge and have breakfast. We then sailed through the Turkey exit, but not before being handed chocolate cakes by the border guard! … Turkish hospitality seems to know no bounds J.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O0Ea57rzgqg/WASHeo1tyfI/AAAAAAAAIVs/4BsJqFR-MbA2KQc4ld4X-eBBejx1umY-gCCo/s144-o/20161005_100216.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342343135673043442″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161005_100216.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oBCumRJ09oc/WASHevXwXmI/AAAAAAAAIVs/-zDx2i1Dgqku8SihfZ87hNTc6nfWvjIqACCo/s144-o/20161004_185340.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342343137426431586″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161004_185340.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JXrvHWx9ydA/WASHegx4c_I/AAAAAAAAIVs/a5d9ynlWoMkjft5H0VbomleEUrQtIpV_ACCo/s144-o/20161004_173954.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342343133509481458″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161004_173954.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qseK5zvIpJ4/WASHeg61aZI/AAAAAAAAIVs/g_scsAfDEuoqfBv4UOHxajGwFggHvjzAgCCo/s144-o/20161004_171929.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342343133547030930″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161004_171929.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EXSr-DYKxDI/WASHesRrmvI/AAAAAAAAIVs/R7y5D2da0j0Efv76SA3UXjgHzrLWq–TwCCo/s144-o/20161004_171927.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342343136595647218″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161004_171927.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

And the next thing we heard was, ‘Welcome to Georgia!’ J

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B-WvM9SJTlI/WASHeptB2nI/AAAAAAAAIVs/BopjHw9O_UI9qJfB1p22Mm7KJbBkqrUyQCCo/s144-o/20161005_105526.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342343135905045106″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161005_105526.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qat6tVJaWzM/WASHett8U5I/AAAAAAAAIVs/y9gx0YiQm8oXe4Bq4uxzGOyAkiGV5yw4gCCo/s144-o/20161005_104622.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6342343136982619026″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161005_104622.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

Passport Shenanigans, Bulgaria and onward to Turkey

September 7th

An early start coupled with the realisation that Bulgaria is two hours ahead (so by the evening we’d be feeling the 4am start) made it a grumpy start to the morning! Our flight was connecting through Charleroi and we had 6 hours to kill there- may as well go and check the place out. We took the bus into town and grabbed some lunch. First shock- 15Euro for a salad! Welcome back to western Europe! We had no choice but to sleep the shock (and the early start) off in a park. The sun was warm, the beer cold and music good J We got our evening flight into Dublin arriving fit for sleep….but with serious logistical challenges ahead…

Our emergency passports covered for us to transit through 5 countries, and we had been through five since Montenegro! There would be no return travel without new passports so we had to get to our respective passport offices in person for urgent appointments we’d made the following morning at 9am. This was Dublin for me, and Belfast for Seb! A serious task before getting to the wedding on time, in Meath for 3 in the afternoon! More blockades to come! ….Dublin bus drivers picked that day to be on strike, and we hadn’t sorted out the right car insurance for Seb… We had to rectify this with a rental car and the use of a bicycle 😉

I visited the local police station to have my new passport application form stamped before my appointment. I produced my emergency British passport to the Garda/policeman behind the counter. He examined it curiously.

‘So….you sold your soul to get home then??….’

‘I had no choice garda’, I pleaded. ‘ There was no Irish embassy in Montenegro’

‘Look’, he retorted, shaking his head, ‘it is what it is!’

Couldn’t argue with that. He stamped the application for me anyway, leaving me to ponder my infidelity, and the sacrifices you sometimes have to make 😉

September 8th

I (Seb) took off in the rental car for Belfast at the crack of dawn. Suddenly driving towards Belfast the radio announced that the city centre was closed due to an “incident”. Traffic slowed to a crawl and the minutes ticked away. Eventually the car was dumped in a car park about a mile from the passport office. I’d run the last mile no problem. Second serious shock of the week- 6 weeks of van living had robbed me of fitness and I arrived hot, bothered and exhausted at the passport office (and 10 minutes late). With visions of being sent away I offered my profuse apologies, to which I received raised eyebrows and a “sure, no problem. Sit down and wait over there”. After a short interview, I was upgraded to the 4 hour turnaround service J I’d make it to Meath by 3 and have time for a fry up whilst I waited. Result!

Aoife cycled to the Dublin offices, got sorted and made her way up to Ciara and Shane’s house for her lift to the wedding. We got ready en route, and Seb walked in just ahead of the beautiful, slightly late bride…..phew J We had a fantastic, fun filled day and night in the beautiful surrounds of Clonabreany House in County Meath. Great company, and good times celebrating the marriage of two awesome people, Juliene and Shane! Congrats and thank you for the great day out 😉

After being confined to just each-others company for the best part of six weeks it was great to eat, drink and dance with fresh faces J

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The astute amongst you will have note we’re wearing the same clobber that we wore in Frankfurt a few weeks ago (although Seb changed his tie- apparently this is important…) This is all the formal wear we could justify bringing with us in the van in fairness. We’re glad to be free of the bulky suit bag now….but we’ll struggle if any more formal occasions arise J

September 9th

After a good recovery breakfast, we set off for Dublin, picking up my (Aoifes’) new passport along the way! There were post wedding celebrations that night of course, gold standard of a good Irish wedding.

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September 10th

We awoke the next morning a bit tired and hungover. Two days of revelry back to back had taken its toll 😉 We headed back to Dublin airport for the short hop to Stansted for our connection flight to Sofia. After an argument with security about the “European Law” stipulating only one plastic bag for your toiletries/liquids, we got ourselves a nice dirty lunch and some punchy coffee to sweep away the cobwebs. Finally back in Sofia, we enjoyed a couple of 1Euro welcome back beers (thank heaven for Bulgarian beer prices!) and settled into Seline for one final night chez Ibis hotel. We were relieved to find Seline alive and well, and quite frankly she was probably delighted for the space and break away from us for a few days 🙂

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September 11th

Time for some sunshine again! We drove east, bound for the Black sea. We made it as far as Veliko Tarnova, a medieval old town in the centre of Bulgaria. We had some delicious traditional meaty bites here and good Bulgarian wine, and slept soundly down by the riverbank.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nImjNrMiei0/V_AC4275hPI/AAAAAAAAG-s/U9LoE-GKPCIS04M8ik7BARdynJRU1BTsgCCo/s144-o/20160911_190139-PANO.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6336567851552965874″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160911_190139-PANO.jpg” image_size=”5020×1210″ ]

September 12th

We took to the road early and landed at the coast near the port of Varna in trepidation of what we might find- beach side paradise or over developed holiday hell? We ventured north a little and found what can only be described as the equivalent of Shagalluf J

This wouldn’t do at all… we drove on again, through a small town and down a dirt road that appeared to lead to nowhere. Suddenly it opened up and we were on a glorious beach! We parked up about 50 metres from the shore. There was soft white sand stretching on for miles and the place was deserted, apart from a couple of funky beach shacks serving beers and food. We called into the closest bar to see if we could park in exchange for buying dinner. They wouldn’t give permission (apparently wild camping is technically illegal in Bulgaria) but made it clear that there would be “no problem”. The alternative was a travellers halting site about 100 metres away, fully furnished with piebald ponies and horses (see photo) J . We settled in for the night and lapped up beer, sardines, and bluefish to the sound of the lapping waves J

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sf0bRZi1KEI/V-1nFSwusgI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/uLXjleaXhskqWQ03KL25H-7c4DsKlc9IACCo/s144-o/20160914_132204.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833591413387778″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160914_132204.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zPnYef57utI/V-1nFbgfbOI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/r3zrZf5iQQAdrSjiE8gRD8XHVkpDknHowCCo/s144-o/20160913_194647.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593761197282″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160913_194647.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tnUePqJVDOQ/V-1nFQTNjCI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/syJUcr8gbxMv-ld26UP9lzU8kXtSrTOrACCo/s144-o/20160913_191940.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833590752709666″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160913_191940.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PM5YW7tjPOE/V_AC4zud83I/AAAAAAAAG-s/rH3b5H6kMNY22LTRUWMvAauwuk3qVlUnwCCo/s144-o/20160913_191929.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6336567850691326834″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160913_191929.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Hl2M4yNcU5s/V-1nFemHACI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/wOJhwiQvrxkvJsyl3sDaoskziOUunTA6gCCo/s144-o/20160913_144903_001.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833594590068770″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160913_144903_001.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

September 13th

It was lovely to wake again to the sound of these waves, and then jump straight in for a morning dip! Bulgaria’s East Coast seems to be the victim of some serious development in recent years, however, this beach seemed not to have been struck by massive tourist development as yet. It had many charms to it; the soft sand, the relatively few people, the old-man in the sailor hat, doubling as a lifeguard while minding his doggie, the lifeguard station falling over in the sand (possibly due to the robust size of said old-man lifeguard!), the arrival of another old man on a tractor to sort the problem out 🙂

Bulgaria also has the huge plus that it is incredibly cheap! In the evenings we had all we could eat and drink and rarely spent more than about 50lev (about 25 euro). We therefore took a well-deserved break from cooking our own food! After a day of sunbathing we enjoyed an evening stroll down the beach and had some more seafood for dinner. We finished off dinner with some Bulgarian brandy (excellent) and a few games of cards. Heaven!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lIVDmLnRO5s/V-1pQSUcRYI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/lLxSGDwCUZsBrLEVqipvN92KZNezdjbCwCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160929-WA0006.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335835979296556418″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160929-WA0006.jpg” image_size=”1200×1600″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V2yQ9UBNegs/V-1pQfSBb0I/AAAAAAAAG4Y/fCsLqv1FVj8Z0W9vAlvisXDp9aLhuMs6QCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160929-WA0002.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335835982776069954″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160929-WA0002.jpg” image_size=”1200×1600″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DHG9tgw7bF8/V_AC45ugw1I/AAAAAAAAG-s/yc1-6nNKCWE0Sljele9slhm2kQTau-TDQCCo/s144-o/20160914_132046.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6336567852302123858″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160914_132046.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ]

September 14th

The fridge in the van is what is known as a “three way” in that it works on 12v and 240v electricity or gas. I bought it second hand but having run out of time in England preparing the van, I’d never got it working on gas. Now that we weren’t driving as far every day the van batteries weren’t up to powering it anymore. After another evening of coming back to the van to no lights because the fridge had drained the battery I vowed to finish what I’d started on the quayside in Split and fix it. With visions of cold beer always available in the fridge I packed Aoife off to the beach for a sunbathe and set to work. After dismantling the gas and cleaning the burner (a spider had made its home in there, no wonder it wasn’t working…) the little blue flame sparked into life first time. Alas, it wouldn’t stay lit without holding in the gas knob. From a little internet research, I was sure that the thermocouple was broken (this is a safety device which automatically turns off the gas if the flame goes out. Kind of important!) We therefore re-mantled, packed up and drove to the nearby town in search of the parts necessary to fix it. Despite asking lots of locals (and being invited into someone’s house for beer to discuss the problem) the part proved impossible to find. We were met with a lot of, ‘not in Bulgaria’. This was somewhat disheartening since the part could be bought almost anywhere in the UK! But we drove on south anyway, in search of another nice coastal spot. We came across Sozopol! This is a beautiful old harbour town, with spectacular views from a cliff fortress and a fun and buzzy atmosphere through the streets. We ate out in a cute cliffside restaurant and enjoyed more draught beers for a euro…. These one euro beers were a luxury we were soon to lose and lament the loss of deeply once we’d leave Bulgaria 🙁

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EDV6e8eXxAg/V-1nFQNV32I/AAAAAAAAG4Y/P7Jvib4Bw4MEkbYUx3nelzX3HvC701glQCCo/s144-o/20160913_142339.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833590728089442″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160913_142339.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

September 15th

We jumped from the Sozopol rocks into the clear blue sea this morning. A perfect wake-up exercise! We explored the town of Sozopol some more in the afternoon, the drive to the marina to watch the small fishing boats come in and out. We met an old Bulgarian man who was parked up down by the marina. He was in a real retro old camper. Seb and he swapped fridge stories- apparently he was having the same problem with his fridge and had solved it “Bulgarian Style” (using a piece of wood to hold in the gas knob, defeating the safety device). Anyway he told us we should speak to the third camper owner (the guru). This was another older Bulgarian man who was parked up in his camper nearby. Unfortunately, the old guy had no English, French or German (the three languages which we can offer (low levels of each at that!)- he offered Russian or Serbian as alternatives in return…), and unfortunately our bilingual friend was nowhere to be found when we approached the guru for help…. The fridge saga would continue!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-59V1_Nv1uLQ/V-1nFQ3Up-I/AAAAAAAAG4Y/eO0oaEvP-SUC8UJ8l6f7sp91-l-opwmCQCCo/s144-o/20160915_103858.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833590904170466″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160915_103858.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oFSfHF6f-Qg/V-1nFW_vPgI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/fgtJvwfSNggXCmBRYrBtkn-5Zsm3aLxlACCo/s144-o/20160915_103835.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833592550080002″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160915_103835.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

We went for a run and a swim before sampling some more lovely local fish that evening.

The technical challenges were mounting- Seb couldn’t find the parts to fix the fridge and the laptop, which hadn’t worked since returning from Ireland, was proving harder to fix than expected (thanks Asus for making a special power adaptor connection which no-one else uses!)

Hence the blog delay folks…..at least part of the excuse anyway 😉

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zApAizF2rtw/V_AC46GQQaI/AAAAAAAAG-s/gT2UVG72shclFzPKe8h9MF67cxpzr–PACCo/s144-o/20160917_130437.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6336567852401705378″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160917_130437.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZJ8FO-omKmo/V_AC43yWZvI/AAAAAAAAG-s/AW17R8D6MXoYGfUb-SSPSfeXuT6IM-FawCCo/s144-o/20160917_130421.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6336567851781351154″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160917_130421.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0ktk5_YOEX8/V_AC44lC5fI/AAAAAAAAG-s/UKfAG7lFgkwMtLdEtEdsEl1gyCNtKnJkQCCo/s144-o/20160914_221355.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6336567851993982450″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160914_221355.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

September 16th

This was another day spent swimming and seeking laptop and fridge support. There was a lot of admin to catch up on also, and further trip planning which we had been neglecting. So after some laborious admin work we bought two lovely plump white fishes by the seafront for the princely sum of three euro!! Bonito is the local catch here. Soft, flaky and succulent….in a word…..yummy! We cooked them up on the pan and then gobbled them up with some salad, veggies and local wine J

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yVEjdVlfZco/V-1pQSuuqWI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/rOjgbrQnZ8oiFkPjf19rDOZbWqiOcgd6QCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160929-WA0004.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335835979406813538″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160929-WA0004.jpg” image_size=”1200×1600″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wjpw0y2hKxw/V-1nFfDC43I/AAAAAAAAG4Y/gQYd9ltTFFADkoI1VPXU20wz_Ql9IA-0ACCo/s144-o/20160916_210651.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833594711434098″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160916_210651.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

September 17th

It was time to leave Bulgaria. We packed up once again and made for the border crossing into Turkey, with Turkish visas in hand. Now, for any of you who think you know all about bureaucracy this crossing was a faff and a half! There were five separate checks to do. The exit check from Bulgaria was a 45 minute queue! Next, passport queue for Turkey- when we got to the window the border guard went off for half an hour with no explanation whilst the queue behind us backed up. Next was the customs check where we had to get our greencard insurance. Cards were not acceptable, and the only cash we had on us (ahem…. Rookie Error!….One should always have cash at borders….another lesson learned!) was some Pounds Sterling. At first the insurance salesman was quite happy to take our Sterling as payment for insurance but once he saw the Northern Irish Twenties he changed his tune because they weren’t “real”. We tried showing them pictures of our legal tender on google images but it didn’t help…. he was having none of it!! There was no way the Greencard office would accept our money and with the nearest cash point a 45 minute taxi ride away, this was a pickle! But then all of a sudden we had a massive, unexpected stroke of luck. A German guy (who was also travelling in a campervan, which was the size of a house!) came to our rescue when he heard the kerfuffle. He offered to exchange euros for our sterling. What a kind gesture and a legend of a guy. We graciously exchanged, and then eventually, entered Turkey…not before the baggage check, and then the check-you’ve-been-through-all-the-other-checks check J

We finally made our way towards Istanbul with eager anticipation!

It was dark when we finally got to this giant metropolis of 14 million people. We had located some campervan parking at the dockside, and so we made our way here. It was strangely quiet, with no other campers. There were, however, a few shady looking characters hanging around their cars, with music on full blast and selling wares out of their boots. Selling what, exactly??….We didn’t get close enough to see. There was, however, a security guard overlooking everything. He assured us we would be safe as houses, and he wouldn’t be budging from his spot, so we camped up and went off for some late dinner. We crashed early after the long day.

And our security guard was true to his word. For three whole days and nights, anytime we passed, coming or going, there he was perched in his cabin, bright-eyed and bushy tailed! Hopefully he got himself a bit of sleep after we left Istanbul!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-963NWaOwr5E/V-1nFeb1DbI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/GbzJT7o73icoXXeFjQek-SMKsIbuvajPACCo/s144-o/20160917_154542.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833594546949554″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160917_154542.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

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A sudden plummet from the top of Montenegro to the pits of travel hell ;)

First off, apologies for the delay with this latest blog entry. We’ve had some technical challenges which have kept us offline (Seb can tell you a long, riveting story about it) 😀

But, moving forward, welcome to our next blog installment. hope you enjoy the read 🙂

August 30th

We last left you in an ecstatic mood, after conquering Mount Bobatov Kuk… in Zabljak in Northern Montenegro. Well, on descent of the mountain, an unexpected turn of events meant that our gaiety quickly flipped to devastation. We left the national park, and walked towards the van, pooped after the long days slog and ready for some r and r. We were greeted by a sea of papers and documents strewn across the front seats of the van….a gulf of panic enveloped us….This didn’t look good!

Further inspection led to the realisation that we’d been broken into! The side window had been plied open, and some so and so had broken in and had a rummage around. Both passports and one of our wallets gone! Computers and all other possessions still there, but passports gone!! Gut wrenching…to put it mildly 🙁 Parked on the roadside by a popular national park, in the very early hours of the evening, after a nice hike……we weren’t expecting this! We debated what to do next. The thieves had clearly scarpered, and it was getting darker and later into the evening, so we parked up in the nearest campsite, had a bit of a cry (not me, Seb), and had some Montenegran beer to soften the blow a bit.

August 31st

As you can imagine, this was really one fun filled day! So much to sort out! We headed towards town early, to face the admin onslaught which awaited. First was a trip to the police station. Eager as they were to help, there wasn’t a word of English between the Montenegran police officers. We eventually got the help of a bartender from the nearby pub to translate. It took a few hours to get the paperwork completed and reports filed (not before being told off for not reporting it yesterday… and a quick moment where we thought we might be prosecuted for not paying our tourist tax). See below photo of Seb leaving police station, looking suspiciously sketchy and guilty?!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C4CuL-S8dNI/V-1nFTfkpOI/AAAAAAAAG4A/xz6MJGfi404_0kePF1eIMJHxkt2CaUPrACCo/s144-o/20160831_110225.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833591609861346″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160831_110225.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Gzj6K1sJGeQ/V-1nFXMqSAI/AAAAAAAAG4A/XNzhTzneWAw46MEX5HwhKQBbQHCmpnmQQCCo/s144-o/20160831_110219.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833592604280834″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160831_110219.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]

Next came the calls to the British and Irish embassies. Seb was able to get support from the British embassy in Montenegro. However, it transpires theres no Irish embassy in the whole Balkan region, the nearest being Budapest, Hungary! However, fortunately, the British embassy showed some neighbourly hospitality and agreed to help me out, as an Irish citizen, too!

Feeling defeated and exhausted, we made the long trip south towards the capital, Podgorica, where we would have a meeting with the consulate the next day. Looking for a ‘quiet place’ to park up, we got lost in the hinterlands around the city limits. Then suddenly, a light beamed from the bank of the river running beside us. It was the light from a lively, inviting looking bar full of merry fishermen having beers and sing songs.

We pulled up, relieved by the sight of light, and eager for a cold beer. The sing song ensued. As did the beer drinking. Some kind fishermen included us in their round of beers, and spoke and sang to us in Montenegran (about how beautiful Aoife is) and Serbian. We spoke back in English, with no understanding, but all the understanding that’s required really when you’re in the middle if a fishermen’s sing song! Great fun!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ypyiwy2UsEE/V-1nFaRRILI/AAAAAAAAG4A/wtDmnyLKQSkI-07wuVjYbBz1cBbhWUXHQCCo/s144-o/20160901_083601.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593428910258″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160901_083601.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

As the crowd dispersed we said our goodnights and made for the van. There was a knock in the door as we got ready to hit the hay for the night. Milos, the young Serbian bartender, had come knocking to get us up for another round of drinks with him. He felt bad that we were sleeping in a van (not the done thing around these parts), and invited us back to the bar to have more beers with him. The hospitality was too much, but would be rude to refuse, so we carried on into the early hours.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rUPU9VKr4bg/V-1nFcREr8I/AAAAAAAAG4A/xsXu85m7KWMPwmxIuFLSvwVtHDOGV-DKgCCo/s144-o/20160831_231431.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593964965826″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160831_231431.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f8t3UTuSSvY/V-1nFYW2fLI/AAAAAAAAG4A/lYrPLwws-ug4LjuUHelF_7ot3hrQj2ScACCo/s144-o/20160831_231411.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833592915459250″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160831_231411.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

September 1st

We awoke this morning, feeling worse for wear, to the sound of another knock on the van. An invite for coffee in one of the local men’s houses where we were invigorated by the “traditional” Montenegran breakfast of strong, sweet coffee with a shot of home distilled spirit. This was followed by a tour of the tiny town. Very very ironically, this town was called Zabljak! The same name as the town we had just been robbed in up north! Apparently this Zabljak, now a tiny fishing village of less than a hundred people, was once the old capital of the region! We got the full history lesson before we left. A proud and welcoming community of people. Completely restored our faith and restored our love of Montenegro!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LYCC205yP5g/V-1nFdXApYI/AAAAAAAAG4A/q6bR-4gi0soPKjh5HVDoE6fPL_s_AtBNgCCo/s144-o/20160901_083613.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833594258302338″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160901_083613.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KimHlzV3de0/V-1nFX4lrrI/AAAAAAAAG4A/7lBxR8-K7Q8UdihwzzxYbsQsAnqwidohgCCo/s144-o/20160901_083426.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833592788528818″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160901_083426.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

We set off towards the embassy for our appointment that day. After a few hours of trepidation, we left the embassy, emergency passports in hand! Free for onward travel! Seb got his emergency British passport, and I had now suddenly become the owner of a British passport too! As a proud Irish citizen, I was conflicted about having this new identity bestowed on me. What would they say at home??! But, alas, beggars cant be choosers!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hBtLO_NC6zw/V-1pQXlFJAI/AAAAAAAAG4U/WtfUkyUeBLgnrkU5ZKzWNuYySPXh2JwagCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160929-WA0011.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335835980708520962″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160929-WA0011.jpg” image_size=”1200×1600″ ]

We stole off with our new yellow passports and made for the border hills and crossed into Kosovan territory later that night. We were greeted by some very friendly border police, asking all about Man United and Liverpool, and singing ‘you’ll never walk alone. Cheered us up after the long drive anyway! We drove into the city of Peja, and parked up in a spacious carpark on the outskirts of town.

September 2nd

The next morning, we awoke to a gaggle of taxi-men standing outside the camper looking bemused. When we opened the pop roof, they were bewildered altogether! Not too many campervans floating around Kosovo it seems! Mobile phones were produced, and we invited them inside to take snaps. We wandered into Peja then, a beautiful, traditional Kosovan city in the foothills of the Rugova mountains. We wandered around the enticing bazaars where all sorts of paraphernalia was onsale, from flashy ‘gypsy wedding’ ball-gowns to delicious fruits and vegetables, to toy ammunition and rifles to Kosovan flags and motifs. There are lots of reminders of the wars in Kosovo over the last decade. NATO KFOR jeep and troops abound, and there’ a strong sense of remembrance of the events and the role of the British and American government in supporting the Kosovan independence struggle. See below photos of Bill Clinton on Billboards, London taxi companies and even Tony Blair street. He can definitely retire in Kosovo if public favour continues to wane in the UK 😉

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cT5BeJCe5fE/V-1nFXcgtII/AAAAAAAAG4A/jzS_tlWYshcssjWR24Vh5VYwoUzDterzACCo/s144-o/Screenshot_20160906-173856.png” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833592670762114″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”Screenshot_20160906-173856.png” image_size=”2560×1440″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vWIB0GvRkf8/V-1nFU7sJgI/AAAAAAAAG4A/gPFhyXiAVKotHpr1uowVFHkp9MnaPgydgCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160903-WA0001.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833591996229122″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160903-WA0001.jpg” image_size=”1600×1200″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JijZ44P2Mi0/V-1nFRNrhhI/AAAAAAAAG4A/RYXTDe3hIc0zXHHoEVnS455EhbidfccdwCCo/s144-o/20160903_103452.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833590997943826″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160903_103452.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

In the afternoon we hiked in the Rugova mountains, and got chatting to the local shepherdess women who were herding sheep on the mountains. Temperatures plummet there in winter, and the farmers and sheep herders live in isolated dwellings high on the mountaintops. They collect stacks of wood in the summer to store in sheds, to last them through the cold, long winters. The Rugovan men and women were clearly a tough posse!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d0cI16lGE_w/V-1nFbV2mDI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/TGcqpovCOrwOWpoSydZWNNX-XBdPoVAcACCo/s144-o/20160902_182913.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593716578354″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160902_182913.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TOOitzIwvSA/V-1nFVpMA5I/AAAAAAAAG4A/7k73iT6oAFoU6tsaWBPPm5vnFNrDra_QQCCo/s144-o/20160902_174713.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833592187061138″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160902_174713.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CWtWPavtBrg/V-1nFR-Gr5I/AAAAAAAAG4Y/UdxOX-I3P00fFHIjSJheJKfy_Imn9hVlwCCo/s144-o/20160902_162317.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833591201050514″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160902_162317.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nKs-EBQm6Qw/V-1nFcxe4NI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/9ZjGtJHZQPoPVkoqlbHEuLPCEb87br1BQCCo/s144-o/20160902_162311.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833594100900050″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160902_162311.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3pUSefNSU38/V-1nFaaPB4I/AAAAAAAAG4Y/FyuL1286EH4pMtBy4SLQtNlgubdgify8QCCo/s144-o/20160902_143150.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593466521474″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160902_143150.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

September 3rd

We set alarms to get up bright and early for the famed Peja cheese market. This takes place every Saturday apparently. All the farmers from the neighbouring lands travel to the town, bringing huge kegs full of cheese to sell. The smells were glorious and the atmosphere was alive, with everyone out-shouting each other to sell their goods. We tasted plenty of delicious produce, and bought far too much! Half of what we bought we had to throw out a few days later when our fridge packed in and the cheese went off. In order to throw it out, it first had to be pried from Sebs steely grip! Letting go of the cheese was on par with the passport loss for him 😉

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3q0dPc9RwwQ/V-1nFazFULI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/cBsTpxKVYioLpHd5BaaqCQ5PwzK40e5zgCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160903-WA0007.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593570742450″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160903-WA0007.jpg” image_size=”1600×1200″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SBofKn2qCKE/V-1nFU0Dk-I/AAAAAAAAG4Y/iwdFKYJoAFYwpm1BZn3HNr7UqxMuvBKIgCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160903-WA0006.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833591964210146″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160903-WA0006.jpg” image_size=”1600×1200″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4R5zT4ZXGbg/V-1nFeYA8nI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/6BoE5bgcbIUt08zcDwHIuzcEwHUnvma8ACCo/s144-o/IMG-20160903-WA0002.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833594530951794″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160903-WA0002.jpg” image_size=”1200×1600″ ]

We drove to the Kosovan capital of Pristina that evening. Pristina it turns out is a very young, fun and cosmopolitan city. A nice place to park up and spend a few days. We parked in a car-park about 30 metres from the central city square. Prime location! A surveillance Police van took position about 5 metres from us. A bit close for comfort, but the assurance of safety anyway for the nights we spent here! Funnily, they weren’t in the least bit bothered by us camping next to them, cooking breakfast there, playing tunes. Very chilled out bunch altogether. A bit cramped in the mornings however, when we’d wake to find police officers practically leaning on the van, having their coffee and bureks and chatting loudly!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6S3bnA-F8Qc/V-1nFQOmc1I/AAAAAAAAG4Y/nn2yftlNQfIEk2_G-J5RClsJRdykCkuUgCCo/s144-o/20160905_115820.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833590733370194″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160905_115820.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PSBNs8Y27Fo/V-1rT1pBdfI/AAAAAAAAG4o/PHl4zKOfRBkYPQrLC7ayowiKDBavI3KEQCCo/s144-o/20160905_093302.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335838239340983794″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160905_093302.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]

BTW A burek is a cheese filled pastry snack, which is very popular around the Balkans, and which Seb has become addicted too. The cheese here is generally white and feta-like in appearance, but with more bite to it. Very very tasty indeed!

September 4th

This Sunday morning, we explored the city a bit more, and then made way to the ethnographic museum, to learn all about Balkan and Kosovan culture and history. The curator of the museum took us on a really interesting and insightful tour. This helped us to have a better understanding of the cultural and historical complexities of Kosovo and the whole Balkan region. Highly recommend this museum!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FNxcxjtk-hY/V-1nFZxwPMI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/0eO74Dorm6MUbES0gSE-Ye5JO9C0uF0GgCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160904-WA0010.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593296731330″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160904-WA0010.jpg” image_size=”1600×1200″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fFCjM5R1iN0/V-1nFTWCafI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/vBmuamXB-b8WsuY0WLyI0KpkieULn0wDQCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160904-WA0007.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833591569869298″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160904-WA0007.jpg” image_size=”1600×1200″ ]

Later in the afternoon, we went on a wander through Pristina, seeking a sports bar where, with a one in a million chance, I might possibly get to see the All Ireland Hurling Final which was about to start. Miraculously, Seb found a bar with the full range of Sky Sports channels, and we were able to find the Kilkenny/Tipp game, with full commentary and everything! The bar staff were only too happy to put the hurling on, and cheer on the blue team and ask what was going on every now and then 😉

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7eOmIYEiuf8/V-1nFbDRUqI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/IMZ1ai5cMI8ILzQvmMWHJ5LKly8Gvz5rgCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160904-WA0020.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593638638242″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160904-WA0020.jpg” image_size=”1600×1200″ ]

September 5th

This morning, we waved our surveillance buddies goodbye and set off for Macedonia. En route we stopped off at a wonderful bear sanctuary outside Pristina. This was a large area of woodland housing Kosovan bears, which had been rescued from horrendous circumstances. They had been caged and displayed outside restaurants in various parts of the country, as a means to entice customers. This practice was commonplace until about 10 years ago. The sanctuary is beautiful, and definitely worth a look and a donation if you’re passing 🙂

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DbvvW6ONfwU/V-1nFbTHzdI/AAAAAAAAG4E/61jDN9XFYvEB9zebqCS0lW64VY-Gnn_DACCo/s144-o/20160905_132118.mp4″ href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593705123282″ caption=”” type=”video” alt=”20160905_132118.mp4″ image_size=”852×480″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-okj3UdNeFt8/V-1nFb7X8KI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/7XjR6VZUf4ote3OxZ35x7bR7-8MzLcmdACCo/s144-o/20160905_131911.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593873952930″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160905_131911.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WxWv2OMquSw/V-1nFZ-tYxI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/MaYtYJHxh1McpcQCkcUcpemuaKdQXJODACCo/s144-o/20160905_124727.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593351070482″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160905_124727.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]

We crossed another border, pretty much hassle free except for a bill for 50 euro for car insurance to drive in Macedonia for one day! Robbery! Anyway, we arrived in Skopje, the capital city, early in the evening and went for a look about in the old bazaar part of the town. Skopje has a new cosmopolitan centre, and an old historic bazaar centre. The latter is definitely more interesting and fun. We wandered the narrow cobbled streets and settled in a cosy meze and wine bar eventually. We enjoyed a few glasses and then walked back towards the car park, weary after a long day driving.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Kgp7yL0lq7E/V-1pQUboRLI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/IMn3H5COhrATftmxSDlBdFddf9QBop35gCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160929-WA0000.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335835979863573682″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160929-WA0000.jpg” image_size=”1600×1200″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t2upMfW6SmA/V-1nFb_WfxI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/aCVVBrTwmbUnQg-jjKsVWnfI_i2d1SvZACCo/s144-o/20160905_171144.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593890635538″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160905_171144.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qd6NZ5IF1Lk/V-1pQbmX0pI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/SX4cn4a4XP4nbx-a1LRmwjmvNuR3idRBQCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160929-WA0012.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335835981787681426″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160929-WA0012.jpg” image_size=”1200×1600″ ]

To our dismay, the car park was locked! We assumed it was a public car park, but clearly it must have belonged to someone or something. We decided the best plan was to hop a fence to get into the car park and subtly make our way for the van and cosy up for the night. We could get up and out early in the morning, unnoticed by the proprietors. But we’d had more than a couple of glasses in that wine bar, and our coordination wasn’t as its optimal, and Seb had an almighty landing, from the fence to the carpark ground. He was uninjured, but the clatter was loud enough to rouse the museum proprietor ( the carpark of which we had parked in!). All this was translated to us by some young lads who saw the furore and came to our assistance, while the old man huffed and puffed, and even at one point made a handcuff gesture! As if to say he would have us arrested! The lads laughed hysterically at this. All the same, the gates were opened and we were ushered out of the car park. Luckily we found a roadside spot a few hundred metres up the road to park in and finally go to sleep!

September 6th

A slow start this morning, we hit the bazaar for some comfort food. Some kebabs and coke hit the spot and we were recovered again!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tSB6tlvgh0U/V-1nFYxPcCI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/2X_Z5UIMdcMmDOdTV7gmCsWaoed2y24gACCo/s144-o/20160906_110457.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593026146338″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160906_110457.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

We wandered down towards the new part of town and visited the Macedonian Jewish Holocaust museum and then the Mother Teresa museum (the birthplace of whom was Skopje).

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BakGlcZIwyk/V-1nFSs0jII/AAAAAAAAG4Y/zup30S014gs-DyMoGOqyV1rSn4ryB-n-QCCo/s144-o/20160906_115351.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833591396994178″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160906_115351.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U67S0rN5TOU/V-1nFVgyTXI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/P7aL3fXrFWIYO-iXlMF_LyWF4ljDust-wCCo/s144-o/20160906_114952.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833592151821682″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160906_114952.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-akz46sZur1w/V-1nFSTjMDI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/DPVgFjxwPsM1IIRruuROfaetT3awXBrGgCCo/s144-o/20160906_114807.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833591290998834″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160906_114807.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-itR46Dspep4/V-1uk2ZAorI/AAAAAAAAG5A/TA9ssJ9KH9Qzyfvg5L9Z-_ZPZqZhTQ7awCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160929-WA0013.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335841830134915762″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160929-WA0013.jpg” image_size=”1600×1200″ ]

We packed up Seline, and set off for another long drive and border crossing, this time into Bulgaria! Many of the Balkan countries we passed up until this point are quite small, in particular Kosovo, Macedonia and Montenegro. Hence the fast transitions from border to border! We arrived into Sofia late in the evening, after a fairly painless border crossing, and made way towards the airport. We got lucky by coming across an IBIS which offered secure parking for 3 euro per night….an ideal place to leave Seline while we ventured off to Ireland for the wedding of Juliene and Shane!

The Van Conversion part 2

So having completed all the dirty mods to the van, she was now fully equipped with a pop up roof, hatchback tailgate and a nice set of tinted windows for keeping nosy passers by out! However, the inside was in worse shape than when I bought her, meaning there was some serious work to do to get it fit for living in for the amount of time that we’d be away. First of all I needed to clean out all the crap that the previous owner had left in the load bay. After an hour of elbow grease this was the result:

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IPw4DfWHW4I/V8xI_pOW7xI/AAAAAAAAFiQ/5GWAWJTjTQsLXbCk4cRlzQil7sRYuzr0gCCo/s144-o/20160616_154819.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6323487077200757329#6326511834783739666″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160616_154819.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]

The next step was to insulate, put in the plywood floor and line the van with carpet to give a nice smart base in which to put the other things. I had already learnt that doing anything in the van took about twice as long as I was used to from other DIY type projects on account of the small space and the number of corners and curved lines. Fortunately, house renovation had taught me something about building materials and working with tools and I had a fully equipped workshop at the house for doing any wood based bits of fit out.

I decided that unlike most conversions, the floor of the van would be insulated. Although this may seem counter intuitive given that heat rises, I wanted to be sure that come winter we would have warm feet! The height of the van allows little scope for thick insulation however 25mm of Celotex would fit in just fine and would make a big difference. I levelled the floor with some offcuts of 9mm plywood, boxed off all the openings with 25mm batten (to match the thickness of insulation) and set about cutting the insulation in. A few hours later this was the result:

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8kfLKpT634w/V8xI_pn-V2I/AAAAAAAAFiQ/vt4o7HL6Si0YQGMAO5aVGrnSZbN04DDVQCCo/s144-o/20160617_104317.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6323487077200757329#6326511834891179874″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160617_104317.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z7oWd4Eluuk/V8xI_idP95I/AAAAAAAAFiQ/nHk48Qdqv0ESni7Yq9p4bdy60hvRge-EQCCo/s144-o/20160617_113545.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6323487077200757329#6326511832967149458″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160617_113545.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]

For filling in the panels I did a bit of research to see what others had decided to use. From an insulation efficiency perspective, Celotex always gives the most warmth per mm of thickness. However, it is also at least as important to ensure there are no gaps otherwise cold air will pass straight through. Rockwool was traditionally used for the old T25 campers so I decided that this would do just fine making up for its relatively poor U value with the fact that it easily fills any odd shapes. It also had the added advantage of being an excellent sound deadener- something that a few journeys in the empty van had shown me would be incredibly important. I decided to increase the deadening effect by adding some roof flashing to all of the large panels and to the reinforcing channels that I had added when doing the pop roof conversion. There were mixed opinions online about whether flashband did the same job as the more expensive “proper” sound deadening material however the proper stuff would have cost me £100s so the decision was easy!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W6TuChP9880/V8xI_uKr_hI/AAAAAAAAFiQ/jMH6xTNG2PwdZgqM4TJca1ZWadUmQ15RQCCo/s144-o/20160617_141043.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6323487077200757329#6326511836110519826″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160617_141043.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

Once the insulation was done, I spent a day refitting the original hardboard panels that came with the van and added some additional plywood where necessary to smooth the contours of the back and she was finally ready to be carpeted! Now, all the guides say that you need two people to successfully carpet a van on account of the fact that you need to do each side in one piece. Unfortunately there was only little old me on my own so I needed to come up with a way of doing it. I first cut down the roll of carpet into all the separate bits that I would need; Two small ones for the wheel arches, two very large ones for the sides and a bit for each door. In the end by working carefully, firmly and smoothly from top to bottom and in to out on every panel, I achieved it. In reality the actual carpet fitting only took a day- it had taken more than a full day to prep first.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZowKAJDgFmk/V8xI_rXN3sI/AAAAAAAAFiQ/D3YQ4b1yAsEw9Gt8GabWLZ6BJ0NACOjkwCCo/s144-o/20160617_141046.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6323487077200757329#6326511835357765314″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160617_141046.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pFje2bhPT4Q/V8xI_u5N12I/AAAAAAAAFiQ/X4JajljbF8cKERDeFAtSX72cEMrzU4c8ACCo/s144-o/20160621_161232.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6323487077200757329#6326511836305676130″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160621_161232.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

Finally Seline was starting to look like she might make a home!

That’s all for now folks! Next time I’ll write about making up the cupboards and fitting the bed.

The Van Conversion part 1

Hi guys, I’ve put together a bit of info on the van conversion cos I thought a few of you might be interested in how we got it together 🙂 Enjoy!

I initially had the idea of converting a van to do a short trip around the top of Scandinavia. To explore that wilderness by camper van seemed like the perfect choice as I wanted to be free from worry about accommodation etc. That quickly morphed into a more ambitious plan for both the van and the trip!

Selection of the Van

Although people have converted many different types of van successfully, for me buying a VW transporter was always likely to be the right choice. I’ve owned a few vehicles from VW Group in the past which have always been comfortable and reliable- the only question then was what age, condition and features should it have? I quickly realised that second hand values for T5 Transporters are both high and robust; I needed to lose my prejudices about what constituted high mileage to get something for a realistic price. There were vans on sale that already had 250,000 miles on the clock. I considered this far too much but settled for a range between 100,000 and 150,000 as the best compromise between useful life left and cost. The specification of the van was another brain teaser. I knew that I wanted a hatchback tailgate and probably a nice paint job eventually but would it be worth spending a lot extra on these things, especially the paint, when I was already doing a big conversion job on it anyway and would almost certainly damage it during the process. Long or Short wheelbase was another big decision to make but in the end I chose the practicality of driving and parking a SWB van (which fits in a normal size space) over the extra room of the LWB.

In the end I found Rosy for sale (now renamed Seline… in honour of a hurricane survived!) in north London. As a standard white panel van with 103,000 miles on the clock she represented the perfect blank canvass and with a full service history I hoped that she would prove to be a reliable investment. Having parted with £5000 in notes I felt like a threshold had been crossed. This really was happening and needed to get my stuff together and get the van converted and ready to go.

Specification

The interesting thing about converting a van from scratch is that there is no template or formula for what the layout of it should be. Obviously the VW T5 Californias have a certain layout but there is no requirement to follow this. If it works for you then its ok! This left me with the problem of working out exactly what I was going to do when living in the van; having no experience of even using a camper van before made this somewhat difficult! Nevertheless, a wild camping trip with Aoife to Devon at the beginning of June help to crystallise the ideas that I had already had:

Pop up roof- a must for someone as tall as me.
Tailgate- barn doors didn’t cut it in the rain as it could fall straight into the van.
Side windows in the front of the van only- it isn’t nice to sleep with your head next to a window.
Sink with running water and hob using camping gas.
No toilet or shower- the van space is too small to make this realistic.
More cupboard space for food and clothes than a factory California conversion- you need quite a bit of stuff to be comfortable.
A fridge.

The trip also had the added benefit of getting me excited about the trip ahead. Even camping in an unconverted van was a big step up in ease and fun from using a tent!

20160529_183933

The Build

I decided that it would take me two months to convert the van and get it ready to go. This coincided nicely with when Aoife finished work and would be ready to go. Of course, having set myself a comfortable deadline I then proceeded to fill up almost four weeks of this time with other (fun) activities. Everything took longer than expected and I came across many issues that I hadn’t anticipated. A very early example was that I assumed having a woodworking workshop at my house and building tools would mean I had everything I needed to do this. How wrong I was! I spent the first two days going back and forth between the house, Screwfix and Halfords to pick up the right size and type of sockets and drivers to even work on the van (ever heard of a Spline bit? No, I hadn’t either!)

Having got all my tools together, I started but stripping the inside of anything that I either didn’t need or didn’t want damaged. Everything was boxed and kept; having already looked for some spare parts for the van I knew that everything that came off could be sold. In the end, I sold both back doors, the roof rack, the bulkhead and a few other odds and sods for a tidy sum making a nice little addition to the budget.

The first job was to do all the dirty modification work namely the roof, windows and tailgate. The roof was manufactured as a kit which I needed to pick up from Manchester and I picked up the fridge and bed frame at the same time. I made a separate trip to Barnsley to pick up the tailgate which I got from a scrapyard for a song (yes, cheap enough to be worth the 8 hour round trip!). So having got everything, and with a deep breath I started cutting holes out of the van!

Thats all for now… More about fitting out the van next time!

Hvar Island to the top of Montenegro

Hi everyone, welcome to the next installment from our travels. Have a good read 🙂

But first off some validation spotted by Juliene Helbert passing through Dublin Airport:

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L4X2Qaj2fBc/V8r75DIFVwI/AAAAAAAAFa0/VOg29RGGh-c197OQPIuFcOGb-hND2slSwCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160901-WA0000.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145584105608962″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160901-WA0000.jpg” image_size=”760×1344″ ]

August 23rd

Having survived the night of Hurricane Seline we pushed on through Croatia to get to Split where we would catch the ferry out to Hvar Island. Lack of sleep was definitely affecting our decision making, because having made it to Split, got a ferry ticket and got in the queue, we decided to embark on a bit of fridge maintenance! Naturally there wasn’t the time to finish the job so having taken everything apart, we had to put it all back together again, unfixed. Doh! Still, at least there was time to pick up a few cold beers for the ferry ride over to Hvar. The sea was surprisingly calm considering the conditions the night before and we even managed a little sleep in the sun on deck…Heaven!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4I2nKgQocIA/V8r7qf7vw8I/AAAAAAAAFaw/X5Y80GZSBkAFaJZDbMRKbLelAAHWFG4jACCo/s144-o/20160823_183337.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145334140453826″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160823_183337.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ValofGYXq30/V8r7qdKEsCI/AAAAAAAAFaw/cF7F4qhyazMmOCNC626v0SsFPs7-sJ7KwCCo/s144-o/20160823_183325.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145333395238946″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160823_183325.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VDyMJMOzUmY/V8r7qX6Ci4I/AAAAAAAAFaw/7L5qvN_p2ok0cd0HZGOkw1Q8isvlFk1fQCCo/s144-o/20160823_183316.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145331985812354″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160823_183316.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SYA8kZRJJ3Q/V8r7qd7ldtI/AAAAAAAAFaw/OXRp8dZgVKMePZckH_RdmAThU-m8TOWkwCCo/s144-o/20160823_113433.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145333602907858″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160823_113433.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

Of course having arrived late at Split it was even later when we arrived on the Island but we set off towards Hvar town in the hope of finding a nice campsite to park in. After finding no parking spots, we stumbled upon a deserted campsite about 10 mins walk from the town centre. With no idea if it was even open we camped up for the night and set off into town in search of much needed food and some fun! We soon discovered that the Balkans are not cheap everywhere and the prices on Hvar are as bad as London! Among the hoards of manic gap year backpackers we had a couple of espresso martinis and decided to call it a night. Couldn’t keep up with that!

August 24th

Next morning was bright and the wind from Hurricane Seline had finally dropped off so we decided to rent mopeds for the day and explore the island. We haggled a price and we set off on the back roads. Thanks to Aoife’s excellent (and regular) instruction, I soon had the hang of driving it! Away from the main town the island was totally deserted and we drove for what felt like hours reveling in the sunshine, the views of the other islands rising from azure waters and the smells of lavender and pine. We happened upon a little farm at the side of the road with an old guy selling olives, honey and alcohol. In need of a break we stopped to sample his wares. We tried a few including some kind of herby spirit and decided the kick from it alone was worth buying a little bottle D. Somewhat merrier, we continued on our way and drove to what we thought from the map would be a beach. It turned out that there were two roads serving this little town and we’d chosen the wrong one- it was a 30km round trip by road or a 50m swim to the beach! On the plus side, the trip gave us a chance to pick some figs for desert 🙂

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[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Jjv7eo296VY/V8r7qZJ8AhI/AAAAAAAAFaw/KfMaeFl8pO4B7XzWrwTgCxOSCf_A5kRcACCo/s144-o/20160826_135105.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332320928274″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160826_135105.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]

Running low on petrol we asked at the local restaurant where the nearest place to fill up was- Jelsa we were told, right where we started and at least 40km away! Apparently Hvar only has two petrol stations… There was no prospect that what fuel we had would last that long and the only guy in town with fuel was nowhere to be found so we set off again in search of a beach and someone who would sell us fuel. We got around to the beach eventually, and passed out on the pebbles, exhausted from the stress of engine revs 😀

A guy at the restaurant was able to sell us some petrol, and we left with a 2 litre coke bottle of the stuff. we filled the tank and took to the hills again. We got back to the campsite late, cooked up some squid and hit the hay early.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/–dvVa3JkDBE/V8r7qYAigmI/AAAAAAAAFaw/qAR0Owqts-E7dJ0bQCtHPZQyD4oTbez_gCCo/s144-o/20160824_175302.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332013072994″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160824_175302.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

August 25th

We hit the port early this morning, to make our way to the Pakleni islands on a water taxi. Famed for its fine sands and nudist beaches, we landed at a very pretty, but pebbled and rock encrusted shore, with not one naked person to be seen…..how disappointing 😉 Very relaxing day though, sunbathing on the rocks, dips in the sea and beers in the shady bar nearby. We hopped on a water taxi back into Hvar that evening, and went in search of a fish market. We were directed to what can only be described as the Tesco superstore of fish mortuaries. We were led inside by a kind lady, who asked what fish we wanted and then opened giant vault into the crypts of fish laid to rest there. So many fish….soooo cheap! We picked out some delicious looking bass and cooked up a feast on the stone barbecue at the campsite that night. Washed down with some Croatian wine and a shot of our friends potent Raki/ Brandy/ who knows what! 🙂

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FC2oP0aK84o/V8r7qSrlQcI/AAAAAAAAFaw/Heug2fN88c06gDVktYNJqX-7AXPUWnFEwCCo/s144-o/20160825_192258.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145330582995394″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160825_192258.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]

August 26th

We were sad to pack up and leave Hvar this morning. We drove to the far end of the island to board a ferry for the mainland. This ferry was a swift trip, only an hour long. We landed on the coast of Croatia and set off for the trip to Dubrovnik. What a spectacular drive. Incredible scenery! Apparently this is one of the top rated drives of the world. Pretty special 🙂

We decided to aim for a quiet spot to camp on the outskirts of Dubrovnik, and explore the next day. By chance, we passed a mussel farm on the road south, and were able to get a kilo of mussels and 6 oysters for about 5 euro….dinner sorted! We found a quiet inlet 5km from Dubrovnik and parked up. A run, a swim and a seafood feast on the shore 🙂

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ghw9qygvs_Y/V8r7qf-YQNI/AAAAAAAAFaw/3DN5LZLyYiYlS8RVogjVdHoyR0sE99xDgCCo/s144-o/20160826_191741.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145334151495890″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160826_191741.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

August 27th

We made way to the ancient walled town of Dubrovnik. 50 Kunas (7 euro) per hour parking! You must be joking Dubrovnik! Nearly enough to see the fish from the night before come back up! Despite our adventures with ad hoc parking in Verona, we scoured the backstreets with a fine tooth-comb, and eventually landed some free parking 🙂

Climbing the walls of Dubrovnik was quite an experience. Incredible views of the city, the hills and the bay. And to appreciate the impact of the Yugoslav war you can count how many of the rooftops had to be rebuilt after shellings and attacks. Would definitely recommend this walk. Highly rated by the Lonely Planet as well incidentally 😉

We explored the city streets, ate lunch and then set off again in Seline, this time, bound for Montenegro!

It was evening time when we reached the border for Montenegro.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y0jnqj84vU0/V8r7qbsixnI/AAAAAAAAFaw/ouuVEjS39uM62yVjEwQ0kOLcndDfx0K5gCCo/s144-o/20160827_130757.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145333002946162″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_130757.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dVdwb25ttX0/V8r7qaBvNbI/AAAAAAAAFaw/Jg5K4qNONzoRLGyBP3QvtSteqWmdpPsOQCCo/s144-o/20160827_124810.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332554970546″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_124810.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wgmUqthaXJo/V8r7qeAf_jI/AAAAAAAAFaw/ZHAEkkZGL1EWttFooTL3Ts-00h5hyas-wCCo/s144-o/20160827_123858.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145333623520818″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_123858.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GkmjjQNXktY/V8r7qdw_EGI/AAAAAAAAFaw/Z72PlKmtBggclf1ihPZsKDBVBpnPBmZQwCCo/s144-o/20160827_123815.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145333558448226″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_123815.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gGjVwOOrqxo/V8r7qa3tktI/AAAAAAAAFaw/ywyQQuRFHDop1oAcpa3ClSGcE1TPX0A9ACCo/s144-o/20160827_122831.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332781355730″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_122831.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wO-lpp-QScM/V8r7qQPfHxI/AAAAAAAAFaw/8bpH7ux75vAQ2tV0nv94z54rmt-GBqd1ACCo/s144-o/20160827_121953.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145329928281874″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_121953.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

August 28th

A burly border copper directed us towards the insurance depot. But not before offering us the option of spotting him a 20 euro in exchange of insurance-less access to Montenegro….a taste of the way of things here D

We got our greencard and drove on into this new country. Noticeably more chaotic, noisy and dishevelled than what we left behind in Croatia. But exciting, buzzy and charming nonetheless. We expected to drive to Budva, but halfway there, we were confronted with a car ferry, which every car going south on the roads loaded onto. So we did the same. We crossed the bay from Herci Govi as a flaming sun set over this amazing backdrop of turquoise waters, terracotta skies and slate-grey mountain tops. ‘Montenegro’….black mountains. Got it! We disembarked and drove to Kotor, a beautiful ancient walled town nestled on the bay. We parked up and headed inside the walled town, full of cobbled streets, live music, bustling restaurants and a buzzy atmosphere.

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After dinner, we found a cozy pub, with some great outdoor live rock and guitar music. The craic was mighty…..until the Montenegran police suddenly ambushed in full force at 1am. They knocked off the guitar amps and commandeered the lead vocalist’s microphone. All men were to queue up to be searched. This was translated to us by locals beside us. Apparently, a commonplace thing in Montenegro. Nobody seemed fussed though. I escaped any interference, but poor Seb felt very violated by the whole thing. He’s recovering now 😉

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h332RriInF0/V8r7qWevYEI/AAAAAAAAFaw/PGpg21psX4QkjRsRWgFT-TaxDAOarsnlgCCo/s144-o/20160827_234112.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145331602874434″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_234112.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

August 29th

Today, we scaled the walls of Kotor. These walls were incredible! A vertical fortress rising to 260 metres above the sea. A serious engineering and building endeavor. And a serious endeavor for two rather hungover travelers, who were becoming increasingly less fit over time as a consequence of van life 😉 That evening we left Kotor, bound for more northern destinations in Montenegro. We stopped over in Cetinje to sleep. The old capital apparently. Nothing much to see here. Earns points for a quiet sleeping destination though!

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August 30th

Bound for Dormitoor National park, we stopped off in Ostrog monastery on the way. A cliffside monastery in the Montanegran mountains, still housed by monks, living their lives in prayer and abstinence. The first thing we noticed here, was the overflowing skips just downhill from the monastery. More empty wine and beer bottles than you could shake a stick at! That answered our question about how these people could live such lives of solitude and isolation.

We walked around the parts of the monastery that were within limits for the public. At one point, we accidentally walked into the private wake of a monk. For those unfamiliar, this is where a deceased body is laid out for people to pray over. When we found ourselves in a queue, and suddenly at the top of this queue, face to face with the corpse and another monk standing over him (very much alive!), we did what any complete idiots would do…mumble something incomprehensible, bless oneself, some sort of bowing action, then scurry away ASAP…phew…incognito and subtle as bricks 🙂

By the way, lonely planet rates this place as a ‘dont miss’ entity…..odd socks rate this as ‘don’t bother your backside’. Its miles away, up a windy, corkscrew hill climb. The heat is stifling. And there are dozens of tourists wandering about fighting for fridge magnets, key rings and rosary beads. The Montenegran of Knock, high in the mountains (to those who’ve been)!

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We continued on the road for Durmitor, and made it there eventually, but not before being stopped by another cop on the roads. He stopped us for not having lights on. This is a no-no in Montenegro, regardless of time of day. But if we paid a 20 euro ‘fine’, we could drive on. We looked surprised. Then he dropped the price to 10 euro. Flexible fining, but lets not complain….ten is better than twenty afterall 🙂

We reached Jabljak by dusk, walked around the pretty jezero negro (the black lake), then parked up for the night.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yhe4TAidW88/V8r7qS7W7rI/AAAAAAAAFaw/HRR6i-Q01VQXRksJcfvJp8JU8FJK07YrQCCo/s144-o/20160829_190404.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145330649165490″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160829_190404.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

August 31st

An early start, ready for some fresh mountain air and much needed exercise! We set off towards the national park. After sourcing a map (of very dodgy quality) in the local post office, we decided to take on a challenging route, that included ascending Bobatov Kuk, Montenegro’s highest peak at 2,523 metres. Signs at the park entrance told us that Bobatov Kuk was a 6 hour hike. Our map said 5. Our instinct said this was a time for the round trip probably. Our legs said, ‘who cares? Just start walking and see what happens’. So we set off. A long and difficult ascent. Steep inclines. Massive boulders and slippery scree. But a well marked route. Amazing views. When we finally reached the summit, the views that awaited were well worth the effort. Have a look at the photos below for yourself. And the ridiculous video clip, delirious from fatigue and dehydration 😉

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We descended slowly, dreaming of cold beers and resting our weary legs. Near the bottom of the mountain lived a lovely old man in a hut, where he sold cold beer to weary climbers. He sold no water, just beer 🙂 We gratefully bought some and continued on our way out of the park with lighter legs now and hungry bellies!

Across Europe- London to Hvar

30^th, 31^st July, 1^st August

Here begins the run up to setting off in the van. We spent these last few days in London working hard to tie everything up. This involved fitting flooring, making shelves, figuring out how to wire the van and plenty of other jobs which sounded straightforward in theory, but took ages to complete. Working until midnight each night, or later. Fun times! Lots of late night pizzas and beers were needed to keep the morale going…

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HBK2icVQR9M/V7rJdrQqSXI/AAAAAAAAEG4/o8GqhXpTNmMjuYDwbq6kSjguR4UskSn3wCCo/s144-o/20160628_143948.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6321586538633906546″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160628_143948.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YWCjp_SmIb0/V7rJdoiBCQI/AAAAAAAAEG4/L9Vk82iMFYcr7eSh2EG99UrIMb-a0lD5gCCo/s144-o/20160624_142335.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6321586537901394178″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160624_142335.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

2 ,3^rd August

Ready to finally hit the road, we set off for Devon the night of the 2^nd. A stark realisation hit home the next morning…no MOT on the van! The documents showed the MOT was due for renewal in 2 weeks time….oops! The plan turned from finishing the van fittings and furnishings and packing to getting an MOT sorted. We brought the van down to a garage in Totnes and paid for some minor things to be done. The ferry date would have to be changed until Friday. This allowed time for sampling some west country cream-tea and a trip to a second hand music shop, where we scored some fine old CD’s and a second hand guitar.

4^th August

Due to cream-tea shenanigans the day before, we had to get stuck in on Thursday. Fantastic bedding and curtains very kindly made by Sebs mum, who worked trojantly behind the sewing machine for the two days when we were there. We set at putting tint on the rear window and learned a valuable lesson; don’t ever try this. So much harder than the Youtube video! Lights and wiring were completed. Last bits of sealant, cleaning and engine care. Now for packing. It was midnight at this stage! Ferry departing at 6am from Plymouth. Packing was frantic, and led to the name of the blog….Odd Socks….That’s all we could find in the carnage when we unpacked in France the next evening. A lot of odd socks, but alas, no swimwear!. Somehow we both managed to leave out swimmers, on a coastal trip of Europe. Blaming the exhaustion, and the cream teas.

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5^th August

Alarms set for 3:30am. On the road by 4, Plymouth bound. Set sail at 6am with wind at our backs. A strong morning gust and anticipation of great adventures to come 🙂

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Al1WuZfn3mE/V8GUYclr8qI/AAAAAAAAEMU/7W3kEPim64U_6FrwKbxaAqZgLCKff5KjwCCo/s144-o/20160805_130623.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6323498499516920482″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160805_130623.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ]

We landed at Roscoff in the late afternoon after a smooth sailing. We disembarked, sorted the van got motoring on the south coastal road. We passed the pretty seaside towns of Normandy and Brittany. We set La Rochelle as the ambitious destination. By St Nazaire we threw the towel in. The exhaustion from the previous day and the early sail had set in. And it looked like a pretty place to stop off. We stopped at an official camp site with water, electricity supply etc. 20 euro! A bit steep so we drove around a bit more. Came across a row of motorhomes parked on a quiet, leafy street backing on to a graveyard. Five minute walk from the town…and free! Bullseye! Graveyard not ideal, but we were on the right side of the wall anyway!

That evening we wandered down to the sea and had the first dip into the Atlantic ocean…heaven! We wandered back to the town and stumbled on a market to meander through. Back at the parking spot, we made up some chilli and cracked open some beers from the fridge. This simple little fridge continues to prove itself as the most useful and beloved commodity of the van. Charged up by the engine, it provides cold beers and wine by the time we arrive at the end of the day. Like a magical vendor of happiness and refreshment 😀 Food fits in there too. Handy for buying groceries and allowing us to make our own dinners. Fridge is a must, take note! We went back into the town after to see a jazz band that were kicking off in the main square as part of a festival. Great atmosphere and lively tunes.

6^th August

Made a trip to the local boulangerie for delicious croissants and then put the coffee pot to boiling in the van. Went running on the open sandy beach near the town and had a dip in the sea after. We loaded up the van and hit the road. With a map from 1987, we headed south. With romantic notions, we made way for the rugged, coastal ‘route nationale’, avoiding congested, ugly motorways. Our tune soon changed when 2 hours in, we realised that we weren’t getting very far on these lovely winding roads. We had to compromise, and cover some ground on the autoroutes too. Otherwise we’d never make our destinations, and spend three months rambling around west France. We eventually arrived at the mouth of the Gironde river basin, just in time to catch the last ferry crossing to Royan. We sailed across the short strip and landed in Royan a half an hour later. The sun was just about setting, and we noticed a few random cars parked out on the headland by a lighthouse. Probably very illegal, but an idyllic spot to park up. We steamed up some mussels bought earlier that day, and had a late night feast to the sound of the waves on the headland….fantastic!

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August 7^th

Awaking to a very different ambience this morning. The headland was buzzing with fishermen and families, out for morning walks around the headland. The peace from last night had vanished. We had a dip in the sea, and then packed up to hit the road again. We drove further down the Gironde peninsula, stopping off for swimming and sunbathing, and finally stopped in Carcans on the Atlantic coast. A beach with cracking waves, and inland, a massive lake full of windsurfers. Too hungry/tired to cook, we ate in the town and ,again, fell upon a fairly cheesy town festival, with a DJ spinning Cotton Eye Joe! We parked in a deserted hotel car park that night. Abundant, free accommodation to be found in France! J

August 8^th

We set off for a long drive east, bound for the ancient fortified city of Carcassone. The views of this place are incredible as you drive up towards the city from the hills surrounding it. We cheekily parked the van on a quiet side-street in the centre of town and walked up to the castle. It was late evening and we expected the castle grounds to be closed. Hadn’t read the guidebook about this one, and we were not expecting the lively scene when we went inside the castle walls. A network of cobbled streets, full of shops and pubs and buzzing with activity. Stayed for dinner and drinks and walked back to the van later. Back at the van, ready for bed, I began to feel weirdly quesy. Was it the foie gras/duck salad dinner coming back to say hello. I suddenly had to dart from the van, out onto the street in a tshirt and pyjama shorts. What happened next? …I can only say I doubt I’ll be showing my face in Carcassone again anytime soon….

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YrbQBtlWuLY/V8GUYYLRE4I/AAAAAAAAEMc/TEnSJvaGLDgMeAFjlwyK054Lno78_qgtACCo/s144-o/20160809_121205.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6323498498332365698″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160809_121205.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-60jTLb8aqzs/V8GUYZLz0iI/AAAAAAAAEMc/OpAexUo2I54t4b9XUnE8sYlmzEBECf7qACCo/s144-o/20160808_233348.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6323498498603078178″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160808_233348.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2CN_8ToLrVU/V8GUYb9hg1I/AAAAAAAAEMc/kssOMp1daiEsuS7dw-WXcKJDww23QIIBwCCo/s144-o/20160808_144950.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6323498499348464466″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160808_144950.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

August 9^th

Both in full health the next morning, we set off on a drive across the Provence country side. We visited Aix, and then headed for the hills, and settled up on a quiet, shaded area, away from the winding country roads. The smell of rosemary and thyme around was bliss, and we picked herbs to cook.

August 10^th

We made tracks for Nice the next morning. Arrived in time for the famous morning market in the old part of the city. Walked around this beautiful city and then had some beach time. That evening we drove towards Eze, a beautiful small medieval town in the foothills. The drives along the corniches (coastal roads along the Riviera) were awesome. Spectacular views! We drove as far as Monte Carlo, in Monaco, and parked up the van on the roadside, right in front of the swanky casino for the craic ;). We ran along the marina and gawked in at the fancy yachts, then cooked dinner in the van and drank boxed wine from plastic glasses on the seashore. Keeping Monaco classy! 🙂

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August 11^th

We started out early, and crossed the Monaco and French borders bound for Italy. We came across a pretty beach town, in Celle Ligure and we settled in here for a swim and sunbathe. Later that day, we drove north, bound for Milan hinterlands. We stopped off for the night in Tortona, a small village south of Milan. We parked very centrally on the quiet streets (just behind the Dumo!) and had some local pizza and gelato before bed. The next day we drove to Milan. We were flying to Frankfurt for Sebs niece’s christening party and after a bit of last minute panic managed to make it to Linate airport in time for the plane. Two days of luxury away from travelling awaited us 🙂

August 12th and 13th

We arrived in Frankfurt and immediately set out into town. After buying a Christening present we happened upon the Apfelwein festival in the centre of town. Despite dire warnings of headaches in the morning (thanks Dad!) we decided to get into the spirit and sample the local tipple and food. The drink flowed and soon it was time for bed after a night of dancing to a local band. The next day was the Christening and after a lazy morning we were whisked away to a nice hotel to get ready. It felt weird to be getting dressed up after so long in the van but eventually we managed to get scrubbed up ok 🙂

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August 14th

We arrived into Milan the night of the 14th and had the luxury of staying another two nights in civilisation (thanks Charlie :)). We visited the Duomo and wandered around the streets of Milan. After a not so full day of sight seeing we then enjoyed an Aperativo and being shown round some lively bars by Charlie and Claudio. Great evening!

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August 16th

We retraced our steps to Milan airport parking to pick up the van, and hit the road again, this time bound for Lake Garda. It was looking like we’d have to give up on wild camping as the lake front was rammed with every sort of accommodation imaginable (except the free kind). Finally, just as we were about to give up, we happened upon five parking spaces facing the shore just outside the pretty village of Torres del Beneto. After a refreshing swim we settled down to cook dinner much to the bemusement of passing tourists who all stopped to turn to see where the food aromas were coming from! Perhaps we should sell dinner out of the van as a money making aside?!

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August 17th

This morning, we set off for Verona. The main plan here was to wander around the city and then go to see a performance of the opera Carmen in the famous open amphitheatre. We parked up on a side street just behind the amphitheatre, cooked some dinner, and wandered in. The opera was fantastic. So atmospheric in the open air, and with a thunderstorm brewing in the air, it was made all the more spectacular! We walked back to the van afterwards, at about half one in the morning. We turned the corner. No van! This had to be the wrong street? Wasn’t the wrong street….shit! Robbed? Towed? Either way….shit! We decided best bet was to walk back to the restaurant we came from. A lone car came down the street. A cop car! We waved frantically and they luckily stopped and tracked down our home to a pound just outside the city. Two kilometre walk they told us, just beyond the cemetery. Could have offered us a lift! So we walked the deserted roads and eventually found the pound. And there she was, parked inside. Roof popped up and everything, the way we’d left her after cooking dinner and heading off for the opera.

2 bills to pay up; parking fine of 28 euro and towing fine of 96 euro. Sigh of relief. Could’ve been a hell of a lot worse! Apparently you can’t park where there are no parking markings in Italy. Lesson learned the hard way. Reclaimed the van and parked in an empty lay by next to the pound. We cracked open two beers (now3am and a rough evening!), and what happens? only a police car comes up and stops outside the van! In panic we hid the beers and Seb got out to explain/chat/beg pardon! All they asked was what we were doing in Italy. ‘On holiday’ seemed to suffice and they drove on after a passport check. Probably pitying the poor muppets, on holiday in Italy, sleeping in a van on a dirty side street beside a pound!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jKX2p0gouAI/V8GUYUpKOrI/AAAAAAAAEMc/5YikxEpS780EcayBj43nZEoFeuJ0TzuxQCCo/s144-o/20160818_015111.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6323498497384004274″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160818_015111.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fW5z07Luah4/V8GUYaV5O6I/AAAAAAAAEMc/2CEGoOh221wBdymdErOwfg24EoFGrbZmwCCo/s144-o/20160818_003838.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6323498498913811362″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160818_003838.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

August 18th

Leaving the events of yesterday behind us, we hit the road for Venice, enthusiastic to be leaving Verona! We parked in Maestre and got the tube into Venice. Beautiful, stunning place! We got lost multiple times wandering the enchanting streets and canals. Would love to go back here and spend more time.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sCgsBgrFwO0/V8GUYQN6WNI/AAAAAAAAEMc/4ODJSLXZqKQ-H12YV6jqAEBwLHK-U0LDQCCo/s144-o/20160818_202546.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6323498496195975378″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160818_202546.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iubcJkHRMhw/V8GUYbw0zrI/AAAAAAAAEMc/C_AEVPOzYB4kaDEYSKxE1rpAmWTi8s6cwCCo/s144-o/20160818_202530.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6323498499295202994″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160818_202530.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KYDNXtAM14M/V8GUYc-z__I/AAAAAAAAEMc/BxJn0Vee3twYrOZlOOElaFKzK3Xcevg-QCCo/s144-o/20160818_200212.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6323498499622305778″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160818_200212.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PTjA_vWzWKg/V8GUYcCpYCI/AAAAAAAAEMc/O56jXXfxG58yNfSXWZdy3DtIeK_c_LdywCCo/s144-o/20160818_184512.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6323498499369951266″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160818_184512.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T2kEtCXH71E/V8GUYRkCbSI/AAAAAAAAEMc/g4w7uPo_6ncuvCvjgYy5F8ixfWVIQnzHACCo/s144-o/20160818_175231.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6323498496557215010″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160818_175231.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TddLoJ1zWH0/V8GUYZdv2lI/AAAAAAAAEMc/3YY0M7VBe-o2T-9PqBzrUQxfj397dzIzgCCo/s144-o/20160818_172725.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6323498498678315602″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160818_172725.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zi6gZhQNYWk/V8GUYW88A_I/AAAAAAAAEMc/O0MP3uKBzjMpYuk7Ta85efVvdG00hx6aQCCo/s144-o/20160818_165733.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6323498498003829746″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160818_165733.jpg” image_size=”1944×2592″ ]

August 19th

Slovenia-bound! We arrived at lake Bled after crossing into new terrain in Slovenia. Woodland and fresh mountain air. A nice welcome change. We parked up on a roadside, overlooking the lake, and spent two days here, exploring the town of Bled and hiking in the nearby national park. A short, but very enjoyable two days, and then on to Ljubljana, where we wandered around the town, checked out the castle and drank some local schnapps in a squatters district. A great country that would be great to go back and see more of.

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August 22nd

Time to head south for some sunshine! We drove out of Ljubljana heading for Croatia. We passed through the border and took the scenic coastal route south. The winding roads were spectacular. Strong gusts started to build in the evening and we decided we should settle in for the night, before reaching the proposed destination of Split. We trundled down a country path and parked up at the side of an inlet. Not a sinner around. Just us and the sea and some tumble weed 🙂

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We got in for a dip, then stared to get dinner ready in the van. The gusts were gathering serious momentum at this stage, and we began to wonder how sensible it was to be parked on a small cliff edge by the sea if a proper storm were to develop. We moved the van up a few metres. The winds grew stronger and stronger, howling through the pop up roof and shaking the van. I, for one, was crapping myself. We made up the bed, fastened the roof and lay down to sleep. Next thing, the roof suddenly blew up on its hinges, winds bellowed in and the van rattled all over the place!

It was morning by the time we got to bed that night. We didn’t hang around for breakfast. We hit the road and made a scurried exit, passing a signpost to say we were exiting the town of Seline. That was the night of ‘Hurricane Seline’….and the van was christened so 🙂