From Kazakhstan to Uzbekistan- The Magical Silk Road part 1!

October 27th

Safe in the cocoon of ‘Guns n Roses’ pub in Aktau (as to why this pub was named so, only God and Axl must know!), we cradled our cold, comforting pints of beer and gorged on delicious chips and burgers! Once our sea legs had grounded themselves again, we walked in towards the town of Aktau, while making hilarious jokes about finding Borat, the famed Kazak native 😉

We didn’t find him. We did, however, come across an abandoned Irish bar, and a corner shop with beer taps on the cashier till. Aktau was an odd and interesting place!  Wrecked tired, we gave up on finding any more entertainment and went back to our tiny, cheap (but, importantly, warm) motel room.

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October 28th

An early start was in-store for these two enthused travellers…..eager to get as far from Aktau ferry memories as possible! We sped off in an easterly direction after breakfast. And by sped, what I really mean is we stopped and started at an average speed of 20 mph, on what characterises a typical west Kazak road….amazing tarmac insterpersed with moon-style craters, erratic boulders of rock, frenzied truck drivers and best of all, ….wait for it….camels! Camels everywhere. Huge, fuzzy, cartoon-like looking creatures, just hanging around on the roadsides, grazing and checking out the passing traffic. What a sight! We had to pull over and take some snaps. They were totally unfazed and didnt budge an inch.

To our amazement, this wasnt a one- off sighting. There were camels all the way along our route that day, in random little clusters on the roadside. There were also plenty of wild horses about, as well as your usual cows, pigs, donkeys and other animal-folk!

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We carried on our long drive towards Beynou, the border town where we would refuel and stock up on supplies , and get ready for our crossing to Uzbekistan.

Supplies included filling the tank with diesel…..apparently its almost impossible to find in Uzbekistan! and as we intended to spend about a week or so there, we’d need to stock up! We filled a couple of Jerry cans too to bring our range close to 1400km.  Hopefully somewhere in that distance we`d find fuel again!

We soon realised we’d have to overnight in Beynou. The brutal roads didn’t allow for us to make enough headway for Uzbekistan! So we carried on driving into the sunset, and then eventually parked up for the night about 10 miles from the Uzbek border. We made some hearty, warming food and washed it down with the end of our booze left in the van. But it wasnt enough to keep the cold out on this icy, cloudless night! It was so nippy!  A clear sign for us that sleeping in Seline might be a thing of the past now that we’d hit the cold, starry-nights of the Stans!

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October 29th

We awoke from a disturbed sleep to frost on the windows and were up with the morning chorus of birds.  Our hearts were warmed, however, by the beautiful sunrise over the desert and the prospect of getting into Uzbekistan today!  We therefore set off straight away and by 8:30 we had our place, third in the queue for the border. The border zone was manic with activity. Men selling wares on car bonnets; booze, cigarettes, and plastic cartons of fuel. Women wearing big, fleecy dressing gowns over clothes, walking about from car to car selling big huge elastic-banded bundles of cash! These, we discovered, were wads of sooms! Soom is the Uzbek currency. The Uzbek currency is a funny, funny thing. Theres both an ‘official’ and a black market exchange rate. Officially (if you do your business in a bank….no-one does!), you get 3000 sooms for your one dollar! Go down to the ‘black market’ (any bazaar or street corner where old man stand around waiting for punters) and you get 6,500 big ones for your measly little dollar! Its mad! But its the way things work in Uzbekistan. We’d been briefed about this by others, and so Seb approached one of the border women for business (money exchange that is!). We’d been warned that some people had been scammed on the amount of sooms they actually got for their dollar. So he counted each stack of notes carefully, and sure enough, she’d tried to pull a fast one! We resoluted to be wise to this trick when dealing with these dangerous, soom notes!

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We queued and queued and queued that morning.  No sign of any border guards. The Kazak locals waiting to cross edged us forward and gestured we should enquire! Because we were tourists? Sure enough, no sooner had Seb gone up to the border crossing to talk to the guards, the doors were opened and everyone started the business of crossing.  This was a pattern to be repeated everywhere- it seems not only do you get better treatment as a tourist but when you`re there, the locals get better treatment too.  Bizare!

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More waiting ensued however. Then of course once we had cleared all the Kazak checks, came the Uzbek checks. Oh, the beurocracy! At one point I was told I had to go separately to have MY luggage checked. I explained we were both travelling in the van. Our stuff was all mixed throughout the van drawers etc. This statement bore no sense or relevance to any of the guards. They insisted I walk back through customs alone. So I walked through customs, with my handbag (and  only an ipad  in it), declared myself a tourist and displayed my luggage for a two-week stay in Uzbekistan: an ipad, a pair of Sebs shorts (randomly) and an otherwise empty handbag. He was happy with this, and gave me the coveted stamp on my customs form. Now I could go back to the van and sit waiting in it again!

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The Uzbek side eventually ushered us through with a bounding, ‘Welcome to Uzbekistan!’.  We were excited to finally make it here….the jewel in the silk road crown we’d heard!!

We drove on with fervour ! There were the usual brutal, border roads for 50k and then the emergence of a wide welcoming tarmacadam highway! We gathered speed! As the sunset, we started to scout out places to sleep. Nukus was our aim, but it was still over 100km away, and hunger and fatigue had set in. We located a town on GPS maps near a train station. It looked small enough, but had a train station, so accommodation surely?  Finding this accommodation was some experience!  Not a soul spoke an ounce of English in this town. All the writing was totally unfamiliar. Words like hotel, restaurant, beer (which had been our key vocab hooks) meant nothing here! By absolute chance, we walked into the fifth or sixth eatery we could find, and by the grace of God, we found Nikita! An Uzbek schoolkid, who worked in the cafe and ended up jumping into Seline and navigating us around the town!  We finally found somewhere to stay, a small halfway house near the train stop. We dumped our bags and headed back to Nikita`s restaurant for some dinner.

Back at the cafe we  met the towns only other English speaker, Nikitas teacher! He was fairly inebriated after a celebration that evening, and eager to chat to us, tell us how happy he was to meet us, and give us a great, big welcome to Uzbekistan!

And when our food arrived it was simly the absolute best shashlik we have ever….there are no words!! And to find it in this humble little cafe in this sleepy, backwater town! We were soon in blissful food comas!

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October 30th

We left our humble (but welcoming and roasting hot!) guesthouse and made our way towards Nukus now! We were stopped about every 50 km along the road (no joke), by the infamous Uzbek police. They are literally everywhere, with more checkpoints than potholes nearly! (Slight exageration!) . But we agreed that the police force are probably Uzbekistans biggest employer. What they`re employed to do exactly, we didnt manage to work out (except shout ‘stop’ and look for ‘car passport’ very frequently, ie logbook) . When you pass a checkpoint, you often have to get out and show your passport and get the van ‘registered’ . This means writing names and numbers in a great big book, never to be seen by anyone ever again most likely. The whole process really eats into driving time!

Anyway, we reached Nukus and ventured into the famed art musuem there. A really impressive and interesting museum.  The collection focusses on `controversial` art from Soviet times; apparently Stalin considered this corner of Uzbekistan such a backwater that he didn`t need to remove painters or paintings from it.  As a result this is one of the most important collections of Soviet art in the world.  There was, of course, also some very interesting stuff on ancient Uzbek art, culture and history as well as collections from modern Uzbek artists also.  Definitely worth a look!

We drove on passing the famed cotton plantations which dominate the rural landscape here. There were donkeys and carts carrying loads from the recent harvest and labourers aplenty  in the surrounding fields. Some as young as five or six years old!

Cotton is a very important crop to the Uzbek economy which was first introduced by the Soviets.  Unfortunately, the climate of this part of Uzbekistan is too try to really grow cotton and as a result, the crops are irrigated using water from the Aral Sea.  What probably started as a good idea has now grown into something of a farce: The Aral Sea is now a fraction of its former size and will most likely cease to exist in the near future.  Not only does this spell economic disaster for the few communities that used to live on its shores, it is also dramatically changing the climate of the area whose temperatures used to be moderated by the influence of the sea.  Of course, the sea is also salt water meaning that the land irrigated by it is reducing in fertility every year due to salt build up on the land.  The Uzbek government needs to change crops or at least allow crop rotation very soon before this whole area becomes barren.  Unfortunately change will surely not come until forced i.e. the Aral Sea is dry and the land parched by which time it may be too late.

Cotton production came under scruitiny a few years back and Uzbek cotton was boycotted by some major labels because of the use of child labour; basically every year all children are given time off school to go an harvest the cotton.  Despite assurances from the Uzbek government that child labour was no longer used it is clear that there are plenty of children in the fields.  Forced or not, children being in the fields instead of school cannot be good for the economy of Uzbekistan long term.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g3nuGUQl2Zg/WFb1hu999tI/AAAAAAAAMJc/eVyX2kuYJzguQEiFNQBYkmCxHMjuNyg2gCCo/s144-o/20161030_152827.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545083227207378″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161030_152827.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-12SZRKIUvEg/WFb1hj7Yd0I/AAAAAAAAMJc/n9le6mW3CSQY8-RRMNl5PFO3DFg8TRSSwCCo/s144-o/20161030_111334.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545080263571266″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161030_111334.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y_jmQkNR-dk/WFb1hkYLAfI/AAAAAAAAMJc/vszqT5Qw6gYLhWAdtVFdoxTNGAGGcXxtwCCo/s144-o/20161030_111213.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545080384324082″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161030_111213.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fhTo8CCynPk/WFb1hlzkHtI/AAAAAAAAMJc/-FCqDqBbFIkUTag3RLAdUm1iCEIJeHJGACCo/s144-o/20161030_110523.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545080767651538″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161030_110523.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

As dusk set in, we finally reached our destination; Captivating Kiva! Kiva is one beautiful and historic famous silk road town. It’s set within some magnificent walls. An oasis town, surrounded by arid, desert landscapes. The impressive town walls are fully intact, and a sight to behold ( and also to climb along, as we did, and see the city from the rooftops). There are museums, and mausoleums and palaces aplenty to explore in this vibrant and colourful place. Kiva was a destination point of great importance for silk route travellers historically. Here, traders would stops for respite. Many would finish or begin their journey from here and exchange their merchandise on the cobbled bustling streets here.  We found a cosy guesthouse, dropped our bags off and then took to the winding alleys and streets, taking in the mesmerising colours and smells, before seeking out some shashlik in a small traditional restaurant. The bill wasnt astronomical, but the wad of notes we handed over for it was! We’d have to get used to our new pimp-life, carrying around wads and wads of cash :))))

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Jh8ReLfjqlI/WFb1hl45KYI/AAAAAAAAMJc/RFhlxgzOgwMLRuDpbUY24BOkB0QMNYwEQCCo/s144-o/20161030_134641.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545080790002050″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161030_134641.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kclgra9OhRU/WFb1hkZGcYI/AAAAAAAAMJc/28aWLn5fasoAS63T-oxB8drETxzC27npQCCo/s144-o/20161030_122027.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545080388219266″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161030_122027.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ][peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xRu4VtfSCEU/WFb1huzqxNI/AAAAAAAAMJc/SO6Eaqm2ddoZGM3IDF8LhbtwhBMiCwRXwCCo/s144-o/IMG-20161213-WA0029.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545083184006354″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20161213-WA0029.jpg” image_size=”1600×1200″ ]

October 31st

We spent the next day exploring the city of Kiva, with a one-day inclusive ticket we bought at the city gates. This ticket allowed us to venture into each of the old merchant shops, houses, palaces, mausoleums and other interesting buildings (like the old Khan`s living quarters, the blacksmiths forge, the old city theatre and even the town mint). The buildings here are so spectacular. It was a time when Khans built to impress, and tried to outdo each other by building the most ornate structures, with the most vibrant murals and the tallest minarets. These provided us with great views over the city. But what a nightmare to climb! Turrets of gigantic stone steps ascending for an eternity (or a good 20 metres anyway!)

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SQTTEG2PIv0/WFb1hsD5iII/AAAAAAAAMJc/_gJIjNL8KkERI9ktXUUypW79-hev-HJgQCCo/s144-o/20161031_165631.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545082446776450″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161031_165631.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XFWtIQI8q7E/WFb1hjdTtFI/AAAAAAAAMJc/w2GfkI9YlloaEml6_gRNyI3OtJoy1hzEwCCo/s144-o/20161031_165543.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545080137430098″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161031_165543.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4vPIXNsAnFY/WFb1hj6OfYI/AAAAAAAAMJc/EMPG65MxCSYy_-3qMKv8gMvAymoKinBdACCo/s144-o/20161031_165313_001.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545080258723202″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161031_165313_001.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/–8ZUbPzwTN4/WFb1hjnmi7I/AAAAAAAAMJc/S7MU_4dvsJgFBuPP8NVzsPqP5mkbbprBACCo/s144-o/20161031_145711.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545080180607922″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161031_145711.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-culNMuCsgLc/WFb1hp1z-4I/AAAAAAAAMJc/pV88YPzWXnMWc5G4E1dw-UsRnEA7zg7eQCCo/s144-o/20161031_145244.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545081850821506″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161031_145244.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hxNPILe_i6I/WFb1hieMRvI/AAAAAAAAMJc/FRSWXSUnd5wftOZSO7zRffHEl9x6GkVZACCo/s144-o/20161031_144325.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545079872702194″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161031_144325.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vJybB1V5Vnk/WFb1hosD-hI/AAAAAAAAMJc/xh1C5nlVDiwd4jpR8YFhBGyen68c1rQfwCCo/s144-o/20161031_143338.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545081541491218″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161031_143338.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-raJjNIQBC6g/WFb1hrF5k-I/AAAAAAAAMJc/LRAU1h4zVU8l-XCkhX3CKSzD_DbQ12g9ACCo/s144-o/20161031_143236.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545082186732514″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161031_143236.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ke62NJVnKsE/WFb1hsPdyHI/AAAAAAAAMJc/HEBGabGREgQzThNF8WpO6eMNUGhJ0SHPACCo/s144-o/20161031_142319.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545082495289458″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161031_142319.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tYc_ZbR4ciY/WFb1hlnbJAI/AAAAAAAAMJc/SE_cyL4ZLH0wNmHHJ0aJ7MxLNUACiSM_QCCo/s144-o/20161031_141012.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545080716731394″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161031_141012.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6LKkyfpW5ew/WFb1hoieaaI/AAAAAAAAMJc/tiHJaEScA6MVAFXRofs4nW881e3zn6IzwCCo/s144-o/20161031_131738.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545081501280674″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161031_131738.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-czUELMM-haI/WFb1hmb3CgI/AAAAAAAAMJc/MEWiMi4x1ik3NsXM1i1UaUsja-Te74bhgCCo/s144-o/20161031_130746.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545080936663554″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161031_130746.jpg” image_size=”1944×2592″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_148HZ-XwJs/WFb1htPV59I/AAAAAAAAMJc/XGUX4DH_xGsSZpD4o1AXU0WPZ9sI_B-0gCCo/s144-o/20161031_123300.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545082763208658″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161031_123300.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xW7RvqDjICE/WFb1hqlxFII/AAAAAAAAMJc/zOj2aHYPOrkOuUIyawdHuwG15pTazkdawCCo/s144-o/20161031_122317.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545082051957890″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161031_122317.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VayKvKPsbZc/WFb1hpHV9PI/AAAAAAAAMJc/mC5hNM0y0pk43ZHlLesojsHBpiAxblLOQCCo/s144-o/20161031_122307.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545081655915762″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161031_122307.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qesQE8Mstoo/WFb1hi7dBJI/AAAAAAAAMJc/NZ8HhSLj3rounQwc5p37_nzaq5HFOOfMQCCo/s144-o/20161031_122254.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545079995434130″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161031_122254.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EnL5xELzueU/WFb1hli4UlI/AAAAAAAAMJc/MoI2lmnWe8MjCzySChnwdtJFLibL1u6KwCCo/s144-o/20161031_121536.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545080697672274″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161031_121536.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hQe7VF2Hsqc/WFb1hjLYBwI/AAAAAAAAMJc/SaY0lNehWHgiweBOzxhqeBSGYi_pjD1ygCCo/s144-o/20161031_120132.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545080062215938″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161031_120132.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9T3lMabrNvQ/WFb1hvOplUI/AAAAAAAAMJc/yw4oeqVF3qMwvf7C3WbwWhGecf_WW5EjgCCo/s144-o/20161031_111806.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545083297174850″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161031_111806.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

That evening, we feasted on some of the finest food we’d tasted yet. Uzbekistan was proving a sure winner for juicy shashlik and delicious breads! We shared the small restaurant we found, with a 40-strong German tour group! It seems Germans are one of Uzbekistans biggest source of visitors! Not too many tourists from England or Ireland here. All sunning themselves in Spain?!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xN4PERaCKyQ/WFb1hr4KY8I/AAAAAAAAMJc/T8GVBNdXgWo-wgyUlXEu9Ph3EfE8WR34gCCo/s144-o/20161031_200233.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545082397549506″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161031_200233.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tPjLgFT0jm4/WFb1hh8sKII/AAAAAAAAMJc/eumlDZb30As0eRzP8rIAasA7mVkvecx_QCCo/s144-o/20161031_200221.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545079732185218″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161031_200221.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

For all of you who were wondering why we hadn`t mentioned Hollowe`en yet we had been joking about dressing up in traditional Uzbek warrior costumes (Seb turned down my drag queen idea unfortunately). But when the day came, we realised there was no mention or sign of any Hallowe’en related paraphernalia anywhere! So we googled why this was. And we found out Hallowe’en was recently banned!! The president decided that they didn’t need to celebrate foreign, western holidays like this one…..so they banned it! We ordered pumpkin soup with dinner anyway. A small consolation 🙁

November 1st

The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we packed up our belongings and hit the road bound for Bukhara. This was the 2nd major silk road city we had marked out as a destination on our route. We were looking forward to discovering some more of the awesome splendour we had seen in Kiva! The roads were surprisingly good on this stretch with a brand spanking new concrete highway!  Of course, the presence of a highway didn`t stop the ubiquitous checkpoints which were starting to grate on our nerves a little…

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gzoxLFvM-s4/WFb1hmZgYzI/AAAAAAAAMJc/0hsCk3OBbysBkz6u8yU4yw2uBgzNgyoLgCCo/s144-o/20161101_155624.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545080926790450″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161101_155624.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CNNlRHd5olU/WFb1hsFZeoI/AAAAAAAAMJc/ZV9hpHbEUWUxl37lf6dfeqV4SKoqHNB2QCCo/s144-o/20161101_155535.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545082453064322″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161101_155535.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

We arrived around dusk and started the search for accommodation. There were loads of fantastic options available, like staying in old mausoleums and in old caravaserais! We had agreed we’d splash out on somewhere nice, as it was Sebs birthday the following day….the big 30 once again 😉 We settled on an old jewish house, just outside the centre of town. The owner explained the history of the house to us, and, after helping us park up Seline outside, gave us the Caravanserai Room, which we thought was fitting! Each room was different and themed, and there was an amazing breakfast room (used to be a prayer room) , and a really peaceful, romantic rooftop terrace with views of Bukhara all around. We ventured out for dinner. We were in search of some more great shashlik that we’d become accustomed to. We stopped in a picturesque eatery on the banks of the lake in the town centre. We ordered far too much food, and sat patiently waiting for our feast with some nice cold beers. The food arrived, and we tucked in enthusiastically. About halfway through the meal, Seb mentioned, ‘Aoife, do you think this chicken is a bit pink.’. The chicken was half devoured by both of us at this stage, but right enough, under closer inspection, it did seem to have a fairly rosy tinge to it. I guess we hadn’t really noticed because of our overwhelming hunger, and also, the rather poor lighting outside the restaurant, on closer consideration, it did taste a bit jelly-like too. We sensibly alerted a waitor, who promptly took the remaining chicken away (waaay less than half was left), and then returned it to us five minutes later, with a more healthy brown glow! We devoured the rest of our meal, then walked home and crawled into bed after some delicious tea green on the terrace of our hotel.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H7dWndgjch0/WFb1huAE9AI/AAAAAAAAMJc/gfitsFLqmpcixPFcm4dN3SjhvlLJ563aACCo/s144-o/IMG-20161213-WA0025.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545082967618562″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20161213-WA0025.jpg” image_size=”1200×1600″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-awronM6KTdU/WFb1hlUKzNI/AAAAAAAAMJc/JcZNCCG0_iA5nTs-20jDnIRhr2hVgpBFwCCo/s144-o/20161103_105544.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545080635968722″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161103_105544.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dhrz0bNFAN4/WFb1hlSathI/AAAAAAAAMJc/jYkV5WeZiK8IAKlb3OoY8xQnOeT5iEvugCCo/s144-o/20161103_105520.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545080628622866″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161103_105520.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4YcCkMeX4sw/WFb1hmUQ4rI/AAAAAAAAMJc/fPIoai4G8h0RoFqxhVGLTGkKelLzu7yHQCCo/s144-o/20161103_105508.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545080904802994″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161103_105508.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c0LgJUccDjE/WFb1hjfKAlI/AAAAAAAAMJc/7QZK-FTeKr0kdfiW6MkVegdqn2MWLT8egCCo/s144-o/20161101_215726.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545080145183314″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161101_215726.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

 

We slept soundly that night, for about two hours, after which holy war broke out in the bathroom of our lovely caravanserai room. First me. I woke with an almighty stomach cramp and ran for the bathroom at breakneck speed. About an hour later, Seb was suddenly engulfed by the very same sensation. And so, we tag teamed to and from the bathroom for the rest of the night. Had to have been the pink chicken! Oh, the regret! Why had we devoured it so mercilessly. Our insides were churning away like cement mixers now. What a night!

November 2nd

We forced ourselves to crawl down for breakfast, which, in fairness, was delicious. And though still having to frequent the bathroom on a very, very regular basis, we still chowed down on the delicious breakfast foods on offer.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WvpqpJZLeSE/WFb1hmitR4I/AAAAAAAAMJc/se7cwDxu_GML15pAqLu4pfU-p5IdIS0YACCo/s144-o/20161102_094441.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545080965384066″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161102_094441.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Rc2o-NUhaqw/WFb1hjq-zoI/AAAAAAAAMJc/98NFr46WAsQjEvzk7ToRXGh6DX4ZKlcJwCCo/s144-o/20161102_094428.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545080194780802″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161102_094428.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

We tried our very best to drag ourselves around the lovely city of Bukhara, visiting the various mosques, mausoleums and temples. But our energy and enthusiasm were notably dimmed unfortunately. We did however manage to get through the markets, the carpet museums, a few minarets and a really cute puppet museum that we found in the old town!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HOYH-wxlgUM/WFb1hr1w1TI/AAAAAAAAMJc/n0ZEIRuYPyszRh8KpFgCSZhg6GRmG7-WwCCo/s144-o/20161102_133240.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545082387486002″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161102_133240.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TvnAWGFtelw/WFb1hk8nvXI/AAAAAAAAMJc/4EYRdSsTGHgnCnsxBC4XGgOoHvcAfTAAQCCo/s144-o/20161102_133238.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545080537202034″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161102_133238.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Nly3kVI4yu8/WFb1hrelP5I/AAAAAAAAMJc/bKkWtRWn92MV-ZpTHkUf99e0IwB7TaUmwCCo/s144-o/20161102_132521.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545082290257810″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161102_132521.jpg” image_size=”1944×2592″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zuis33tRenc/WFb1hhkYtzI/AAAAAAAAMJc/A2e3yxp8bysZE9MyV3zkSXu-MNe7ITSKQCCo/s144-o/20161102_132422.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545079630247730″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161102_132422.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Zd5NzK8q_Kw/WFb1hvgs3yI/AAAAAAAAMJc/ADSbnXxO2zwTjo3tOLisevB7j_s03qj6ACCo/s144-o/20161102_132217.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545083372887842″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161102_132217.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pokfjQd0rxY/WFb1hgerOiI/AAAAAAAAMJc/jRtv5s-TkiEfn3p7nbk7LLdMWykBHLZbgCCo/s144-o/20161102_132055.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545079337859618″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161102_132055.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eNmtKw6bSyc/WFb1hgzTFUI/AAAAAAAAMJc/QfoRljEG-ao3lqE7DOKTT8pilQT24nvDQCCo/s144-o/20161102_122739.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545079424357698″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161102_122739.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-a1f9C8kynXM/WFb1htpQLnI/AAAAAAAAMJc/FIIxj_DmNtUJDeRmTrO9gWX5Hb2FzLtNQCCo/s144-o/20161102_122735.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545082871885426″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161102_122735.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-09N8STJdyeA/WFb1hmIlGLI/AAAAAAAAMJc/pb0qSEGJp5gBMUPFDTwD8xxwHKy5TfbIgCCo/s144-o/20161102_122336.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545080855795890″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161102_122336.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MNuLKN8dGN4/WFb1hmyYrsI/AAAAAAAAMJc/pkLIxgwlfXAeYMVbzrYo2L-JborKB_mqACCo/s144-o/20161102_122213.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545081031143106″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161102_122213.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5EzdZDitO_0/WFb1hvcM99I/AAAAAAAAMJc/E2wgkvlIFkQNJDpuHOW5gbr4FDZG_0iDgCCo/s144-o/20161102_115518.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545083354019794″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161102_115518.jpg” image_size=”1944×2592″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o3psMD2J15g/WFb1huXdk_I/AAAAAAAAMJc/BIJXXcjSY0kwjwGLOXdsFctAeZZGoZPQgCCo/s144-o/20161102_115332.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545083065701362″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161102_115332.jpg” image_size=”1944×2592″ ]

Then it was definitely time to treat ourselves, so we headed off in the direction of the local bath house. This was quite an experience! We were brought into a stone cave, and instructed to strip off and return in nothing but a miniscual towel. We were then led down a dark tunnel further into the awesome cave maze, and into a room which was belowing out hot air from the stone walls. We were immediately relaxed by the steam and solitude, and soon built up a good sweat. Next we were led out to another larger room, with giant stone floor slabs. We were each told to lie down on the hot wet slabs and what followed was one hell of a great massage! Absolute heaven! After the massage were had a ginger scrub rubbed into our skin and then left to sweat in the heat ( and burn up a bit from the ginger!). Then came the absolute climax…..a huge bucket of ice water over our heads! No forewarning! Shocking, freezing, awesome! We relaxed then as we were led to another room and recovered from the whole experience with some delicious sweet tea! We have to say, this was an amazing bath experience. One of the best! They preserved the style of the old Bukhara bath houses in this enchanting cave, and its an experience not to be missed!

 

After the baths we wandered back to our hotel, where I surprised Seb with an excellent rendition of happy birthday, complete with balloons, party streamers and a birthday baklava! And the kind hotelier dropped in some wine and chocolates for us! Awesome! We headed out for dinner to a cute spot in the old town and got some highly recommended, but unfortunately named, ‘beef jhiz’ to top off the day. Unfortunately, the stomachs were still delicate, so the jhiz was only half demolished, but we enjoyed it all the same 🙂

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j-idT7KFaeA/WFb1hofvXtI/AAAAAAAAMJc/bXD6uEzK0-oqRGbzvl45HfzhY9_nfBQsQCCo/s144-o/20161102_202437.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545081489809106″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161102_202437.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E4VAA8JAXP0/WFb1hsxPCWI/AAAAAAAAMJc/HLuppN911v4PT_JbwsjSsz1DnrmP-0dnACCo/s144-o/20161102_202403.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6365545076040385089#6365545082636929378″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20161102_202403.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

November 3rd

Feeling somewhat better the next morning, we lapped up the yummy breakfast on offer, and then took to the road for Samarkand. We made some enquiries about where to get diesel from the hotel, and were directed to a gas station out of town. The queue was a mile long, so we drove on; surely we would find ourselves some diesel further along the road.  Samarkand is known to be, probably, the most impressive and mesmerising of the silk road cities. With the promise of amazing palaces, mausoleums, architecture and murals around the city we were excited to be on the road there.

More immediately, the search for diesel was testing our nerves.  Five or six petrol stations came and went with none of them having any; even those which were advertising it were empty.  After the sixth one the fuel light came on so with trepidation we put in our last jerry can of fuel.  We really needed to find it now!

We finally entered Samerkand, still looking.  The fuel light was on for a second time and our final hope (the state fuel station in the city) was also out of diesel.  I (Seb) enquired at another station only to be met with the usual shake of the head when, by lucky chance, all of his money blew out of the kiosk and into the forecourt.  I ran around helping him pick up the money and then asked him for help again.  Finally we got the lead we were hoping for!  We were directed to his friend`s petrol station across the road where I was to say who had sent me there.  Sure enough, once we had agreed a price for the 100 litres that I needed (400,000 Soom- we got off lightly he could have asked for anything!) we were led around the back to a separate fuel pump and filled up.  What an experience!  I only had to pray now that what we had been filled up with wasnt such poor quality that Seline would choke!

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We found lodgings in a friendly hostel near Samarkand old quarter, and then ventured out for more shashlik (still delicious. Hadn’t tired of the Uzbek staples yet!).

Tired and happy we headed back to our lodgings, excited about what we would find in Samerkand the next day!