Passport Shenanigans, Bulgaria and onward to Turkey

September 7th

An early start coupled with the realisation that Bulgaria is two hours ahead (so by the evening we’d be feeling the 4am start) made it a grumpy start to the morning!  Our flight was connecting through Charleroi and we had 6 hours to kill there- may as well go and check the place out.  We took the bus into town and grabbed some lunch.  First shock- 15Euro for a salad!  Welcome back to western Europe!  We had no choice but to sleep the shock (and the early start) off in a park.  The sun was warm, the beer cold and music good J  We got our evening flight into Dublin arriving fit for sleep….but with serious logistical challenges ahead…

Our emergency passports covered for us to transit through 5 countries, and we had been through five since Montenegro! There would be no return travel without new passports so we had to get to our respective passport offices in person for urgent appointments we’d made the following morning at 9am. This was Dublin for me, and Belfast for Seb! A serious task before getting to the wedding on time, in Meath for 3 in the afternoon! More blockades to come! ….Dublin bus drivers picked that day to be on strike, and we hadn’t sorted out the right car insurance for Seb…  We had to rectify this with a rental car and the use of a bicycle 😉

I visited the local police station to have my new passport application form stamped before my appointment. I produced my emergency British passport to the Garda/policeman behind the counter. He examined it curiously.

‘So….you sold your soul to get home then??….’

‘I had no choice garda’, I pleaded. ‘ There was no Irish embassy in Montenegro’

‘Look’, he retorted, shaking his head, ‘it is what it is!’

Couldn’t argue with that. He stamped the application for me anyway, leaving me to ponder my infidelity, and the sacrifices you sometimes have to make 😉

 

September 8th

I (Seb) took off in the rental car for Belfast at the crack of dawn.  Suddenly driving towards Belfast the radio announced that the city centre was closed due to an “incident”.  Traffic slowed to a crawl and the minutes ticked away.  Eventually the car was dumped in a car park about a mile from the passport office.  I’d run the last mile no problem.  Second serious shock of the week- 6 weeks of van living had robbed me of fitness and I arrived hot, bothered and exhausted at the passport office (and 10 minutes late).  With visions of being sent away I offered my profuse apologies, to which I received raised eyebrows and a “sure, no problem.  Sit down and wait over there”.  After a short interview, I was upgraded to the 4 hour turnaround service J  I’d make it to Meath by 3 and have time for a fry up whilst I waited.  Result!

Aoife cycled to the Dublin offices, got sorted and made her way up to Ciara and Shane’s house for her lift to the wedding.  We got ready en route, and Seb walked in just ahead of the beautiful, slightly late bride…..phew J   We had a fantastic, fun filled day and night in the beautiful surrounds of Clonabreany House in County Meath.  Great company, and good times celebrating the marriage of two awesome people, Juliene and Shane! Congrats and thank you for the great day out 😉

After being confined to just each-others company for the best part of six weeks it was great to eat, drink and dance with fresh faces J

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The astute amongst you will have note we’re wearing the same clobber that we wore in Frankfurt a few weeks ago (although Seb changed his tie- apparently this is important…)  This is all the formal wear we could justify bringing with us in the van in fairness. We’re glad to be free of the bulky suit bag now….but we’ll struggle if any more formal occasions arise J

 

September 9th

 

After a good recovery breakfast, we set off for Dublin, picking up my (Aoifes’) new passport along the way! There were post wedding celebrations that night of course, gold standard of a good Irish wedding.

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September 10th

We awoke the next morning a bit tired and hungover.  Two days of revelry back to back had taken its toll 😉  We headed back to Dublin airport for the short hop to Stansted for our connection flight to Sofia.  After an argument with security about the “European Law” stipulating only one plastic bag for your toiletries/liquids, we got ourselves a nice dirty lunch and some punchy coffee to sweep away the cobwebs.  Finally back in Sofia, we enjoyed a couple of 1Euro welcome back beers (thank heaven for Bulgarian beer prices!) and settled into Seline for one final night chez Ibis hotel.  We were relieved to find Seline alive and well, and quite frankly she was probably delighted for the space and break away from us for a few days 🙂

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September 11th

Time for some sunshine again! We drove east, bound for the Black sea. We made it as far as Veliko Tarnova, a medieval old town in the centre of Bulgaria. We had some delicious traditional meaty bites here and good Bulgarian wine, and slept soundly down by the riverbank.

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September 12th

We took to the road early and landed at the coast near the port of Varna in trepidation of what we might find- beach side paradise or over developed holiday hell?  We ventured north a little and found what can only be described as the equivalent of Shagalluf J

This wouldn’t do at all… we drove on again, through a small town and down a dirt road that appeared to lead to nowhere.  Suddenly it opened up and we were on a glorious beach!  We parked up about 50 metres from the shore. There was soft white sand stretching on for miles and the place was deserted, apart from a couple of funky beach shacks serving beers and food.  We called into the closest bar to see if we could park in exchange for buying dinner.  They wouldn’t give permission (apparently wild camping is technically illegal in Bulgaria) but made it clear that there would be “no problem”.  The alternative was a travellers halting site about 100 metres away, fully furnished with piebald ponies and horses (see photo) J  . We settled in for the night and lapped up beer, sardines, and bluefish to the sound of the lapping waves J

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September 13th

It was lovely to wake again to the sound of these waves, and then jump straight in for a morning dip! Bulgaria’s East Coast seems to be the victim of some serious development in recent years, however, this beach seemed not to have been struck by massive tourist development as yet. It had many charms to it; the soft sand, the relatively few people, the old-man in the sailor hat, doubling as a lifeguard while minding his doggie, the lifeguard station falling over in the sand (possibly due to the robust size of said old-man lifeguard!), the arrival of another old man on a tractor to sort the problem out 🙂

Bulgaria also has the huge plus that it is incredibly cheap! In the evenings we had all we could eat and drink and rarely spent more than about 50lev (about 25 euro).  We therefore took a well-deserved break from cooking our own food!  After a day of sunbathing we enjoyed an evening stroll down the beach and had some more seafood for dinner.  We finished off dinner with some Bulgarian brandy (excellent) and a few games of cards.  Heaven!

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September 14th

The fridge in the van is what is known as a “three way” in that it works on 12v and 240v electricity or gas.  I bought it second hand but having run out of time in England preparing the van, I’d never got it working on gas.  Now that we weren’t driving as far every day the van batteries weren’t up to powering it anymore.  After another evening of coming back to the van to no lights because the fridge had drained the battery I vowed to finish what I’d started on the quayside in Split and fix it.  With visions of cold beer always available in the fridge I packed Aoife off to the beach for a sunbathe and set to work.  After dismantling the gas and cleaning the burner (a spider had made its home in there, no wonder it wasn’t working…) the little blue flame sparked into life first time.  Alas, it wouldn’t stay lit without holding in the gas knob.  From a little internet research, I was sure that the thermocouple was broken (this is a safety device which automatically turns off the gas if the flame goes out.  Kind of important!)  We therefore re-mantled, packed up and drove to the nearby town in search of the parts necessary to fix it.  Despite asking lots of locals (and being invited into someone’s house for beer to discuss the problem) the part proved impossible to find.  We were met with a lot of, ‘not in Bulgaria’.  This was somewhat disheartening since the part could be bought almost anywhere in the UK!  But we drove on south anyway, in search of another nice coastal spot. We came across Sozopol! This is a beautiful old harbour town, with spectacular views from a cliff fortress and a fun and buzzy atmosphere through the streets. We ate out in a cute cliffside restaurant and enjoyed more draught beers for a euro…. These one euro beers were a luxury we were soon to lose and lament the loss of deeply once we’d leave Bulgaria 🙁

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September 15th

We jumped from the Sozopol rocks into the clear blue sea this morning. A perfect wake-up exercise! We explored the town of Sozopol some more in the afternoon, the drive to the marina to watch the small fishing boats come in and out. We met an old Bulgarian man who was parked up down by the marina. He was in a real retro old camper. Seb and he swapped fridge stories- apparently he was having the same problem with his fridge and had solved it “Bulgarian Style” (using a piece of wood to hold in the gas knob, defeating the safety device).  Anyway he told us we should speak to the third camper owner (the guru). This was another older Bulgarian man who was parked up in his camper nearby. Unfortunately, the old guy had no English, French or German (the three languages which we can offer (low levels of each at that!)- he offered Russian or Serbian as alternatives in return…), and unfortunately our bilingual friend was nowhere to be found when we approached the guru for help…. The fridge saga would continue!

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We went for a run and a swim before sampling some more lovely local fish that evening.

The technical challenges were mounting- Seb couldn’t find the parts to fix the fridge and the laptop, which hadn’t worked since returning from Ireland, was proving harder to fix than expected (thanks Asus for making a special power adaptor connection which no-one else uses!)

Hence the blog delay folks…..at least part of the excuse anyway 😉

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September 16th

This was another day spent swimming and seeking laptop and fridge support. There was a lot of admin to catch up on also, and further trip planning which we had been neglecting. So after some laborious admin work we bought two lovely plump white fishes by the seafront for the princely sum  of three euro!! Bonito is the local catch here. Soft, flaky and succulent….in a word…..yummy! We cooked them up on the pan and then gobbled them up with some salad, veggies and local wine J

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September 17th

It was time to leave Bulgaria. We packed up once again and made for the border crossing into Turkey, with Turkish visas in hand. Now, for any of you who think you know all about bureaucracy this crossing was a faff and a half!  There were five separate checks to do.  The exit check from Bulgaria was a 45 minute queue!  Next, passport queue for Turkey- when we got to the window the border guard went off for half an hour with no explanation whilst the queue behind us backed up.  Next was the customs check where we had to get our greencard insurance.  Cards were not acceptable, and the only cash we had on us (ahem…. Rookie Error!….One should always have cash at borders….another lesson learned!) was some Pounds Sterling.  At first the insurance salesman was quite happy to take our Sterling as payment for insurance but once he saw the Northern Irish Twenties he changed his tune because they weren’t “real”.  We tried showing them pictures of our legal tender on google images but it didn’t help…. he was having none of it!! There was no way the Greencard office would accept our money and with the nearest cash point a 45 minute taxi ride away, this was a pickle!  But then all of a sudden we had a massive, unexpected stroke of luck. A German guy (who was also travelling in a campervan, which was the size of a house!) came to our rescue when he heard the kerfuffle. He offered to exchange euros for our sterling. What a kind gesture and a legend of a guy. We graciously exchanged, and then eventually, entered Turkey…not before the baggage check, and then the check-you’ve-been-through-all-the-other-checks check J

We finally made our way towards Istanbul with eager anticipation!

It was dark when we finally got to this giant metropolis of 14 million people. We had located some campervan parking at the dockside, and so we made our way here. It was strangely quiet, with no other campers. There were, however, a few shady looking characters hanging around their cars, with music on full blast and selling wares out of their boots. Selling what, exactly??….We didn’t get close enough to see. There was, however, a security guard overlooking everything. He assured us we would be safe as houses, and he wouldn’t be budging from his spot, so we camped up and went off for some late dinner. We crashed early after the long day.

And our security guard was true to his word. For three whole days and nights, anytime we passed, coming or going, there he was perched in his cabin, bright-eyed and bushy tailed! Hopefully he got himself a bit of sleep after we left Istanbul!

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