Hi everyone, welcome to the next installment from our travels. Have a good read 🙂
But first off some validation spotted by Juliene Helbert passing through Dublin Airport:
[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L4X2Qaj2fBc/V8r75DIFVwI/AAAAAAAAFa0/VOg29RGGh-c197OQPIuFcOGb-hND2slSwCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160901-WA0000.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145584105608962″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160901-WA0000.jpg” image_size=”760×1344″ ]
August 23rd
Having survived the night of Hurricane Seline we pushed on through Croatia to get to Split where we would catch the ferry out to Hvar Island. Lack of sleep was definitely affecting our decision making, because having made it to Split, got a ferry ticket and got in the queue, we decided to embark on a bit of fridge maintenance! Naturally there wasn’t the time to finish the job so having taken everything apart, we had to put it all back together again, unfixed. Doh! Still, at least there was time to pick up a few cold beers for the ferry ride over to Hvar. The sea was surprisingly calm considering the conditions the night before and we even managed a little sleep in the sun on deck…Heaven!
[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4I2nKgQocIA/V8r7qf7vw8I/AAAAAAAAFaw/X5Y80GZSBkAFaJZDbMRKbLelAAHWFG4jACCo/s144-o/20160823_183337.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145334140453826″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160823_183337.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ValofGYXq30/V8r7qdKEsCI/AAAAAAAAFaw/cF7F4qhyazMmOCNC626v0SsFPs7-sJ7KwCCo/s144-o/20160823_183325.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145333395238946″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160823_183325.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VDyMJMOzUmY/V8r7qX6Ci4I/AAAAAAAAFaw/7L5qvN_p2ok0cd0HZGOkw1Q8isvlFk1fQCCo/s144-o/20160823_183316.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145331985812354″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160823_183316.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SYA8kZRJJ3Q/V8r7qd7ldtI/AAAAAAAAFaw/OXRp8dZgVKMePZckH_RdmAThU-m8TOWkwCCo/s144-o/20160823_113433.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145333602907858″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160823_113433.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]
Of course having arrived late at Split it was even later when we arrived on the Island but we set off towards Hvar town in the hope of finding a nice campsite to park in. After finding no parking spots, we stumbled upon a deserted campsite about 10 mins walk from the town centre. With no idea if it was even open we camped up for the night and set off into town in search of much needed food and some fun! We soon discovered that the Balkans are not cheap everywhere and the prices on Hvar are as bad as London! Among the hoards of manic gap year backpackers we had a couple of espresso martinis and decided to call it a night. Couldn’t keep up with that!
August 24th
Next morning was bright and the wind from Hurricane Seline had finally dropped off so we decided to rent mopeds for the day and explore the island. We haggled a price and we set off on the back roads. Thanks to Aoife’s excellent (and regular) instruction, I soon had the hang of driving it! Away from the main town the island was totally deserted and we drove for what felt like hours reveling in the sunshine, the views of the other islands rising from azure waters and the smells of lavender and pine. We happened upon a little farm at the side of the road with an old guy selling olives, honey and alcohol. In need of a break we stopped to sample his wares. We tried a few including some kind of herby spirit and decided the kick from it alone was worth buying a little bottle D. Somewhat merrier, we continued on our way and drove to what we thought from the map would be a beach. It turned out that there were two roads serving this little town and we’d chosen the wrong one- it was a 30km round trip by road or a 50m swim to the beach! On the plus side, the trip gave us a chance to pick some figs for desert 🙂
[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0CDU3Y1pZtI/V8r7qST8ztI/AAAAAAAAFaw/1ZhQ0wgWBvwIYReGS749k9pFn0FMvcqwgCCo/s144-o/20160824_175427.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145330483875538″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160824_175427.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n8ehgwoEp3g/V8r7qTO-gFI/AAAAAAAAFaw/PmS4C-bfdhkskSQpMfYwg-ysT3B7VxL8ACCo/s144-o/20160824_175325.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145330731450450″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160824_175325.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3HpP45kw7WM/V8r7qbEqYuI/AAAAAAAAFaw/8i7XYVL54t0TJhU6DYpTLa1kQHX8BBj_ACCo/s144-o/20160824_120933.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332835672802″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160824_120933.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]
[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Jjv7eo296VY/V8r7qZJ8AhI/AAAAAAAAFaw/KfMaeFl8pO4B7XzWrwTgCxOSCf_A5kRcACCo/s144-o/20160826_135105.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332320928274″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160826_135105.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]
Running low on petrol we asked at the local restaurant where the nearest place to fill up was- Jelsa we were told, right where we started and at least 40km away! Apparently Hvar only has two petrol stations… There was no prospect that what fuel we had would last that long and the only guy in town with fuel was nowhere to be found so we set off again in search of a beach and someone who would sell us fuel. We got around to the beach eventually, and passed out on the pebbles, exhausted from the stress of engine revs 😀
A guy at the restaurant was able to sell us some petrol, and we left with a 2 litre coke bottle of the stuff. we filled the tank and took to the hills again. We got back to the campsite late, cooked up some squid and hit the hay early.
[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/–dvVa3JkDBE/V8r7qYAigmI/AAAAAAAAFaw/qAR0Owqts-E7dJ0bQCtHPZQyD4oTbez_gCCo/s144-o/20160824_175302.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332013072994″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160824_175302.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]
August 25th
We hit the port early this morning, to make our way to the Pakleni islands on a water taxi. Famed for its fine sands and nudist beaches, we landed at a very pretty, but pebbled and rock encrusted shore, with not one naked person to be seen…..how disappointing 😉 Very relaxing day though, sunbathing on the rocks, dips in the sea and beers in the shady bar nearby. We hopped on a water taxi back into Hvar that evening, and went in search of a fish market. We were directed to what can only be described as the Tesco superstore of fish mortuaries. We were led inside by a kind lady, who asked what fish we wanted and then opened giant vault into the crypts of fish laid to rest there. So many fish….soooo cheap! We picked out some delicious looking bass and cooked up a feast on the stone barbecue at the campsite that night. Washed down with some Croatian wine and a shot of our friends potent Raki/ Brandy/ who knows what! 🙂
[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FC2oP0aK84o/V8r7qSrlQcI/AAAAAAAAFaw/Heug2fN88c06gDVktYNJqX-7AXPUWnFEwCCo/s144-o/20160825_192258.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145330582995394″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160825_192258.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]
August 26th
We were sad to pack up and leave Hvar this morning. We drove to the far end of the island to board a ferry for the mainland. This ferry was a swift trip, only an hour long. We landed on the coast of Croatia and set off for the trip to Dubrovnik. What a spectacular drive. Incredible scenery! Apparently this is one of the top rated drives of the world. Pretty special 🙂
We decided to aim for a quiet spot to camp on the outskirts of Dubrovnik, and explore the next day. By chance, we passed a mussel farm on the road south, and were able to get a kilo of mussels and 6 oysters for about 5 euro….dinner sorted! We found a quiet inlet 5km from Dubrovnik and parked up. A run, a swim and a seafood feast on the shore 🙂
[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ghw9qygvs_Y/V8r7qf-YQNI/AAAAAAAAFaw/3DN5LZLyYiYlS8RVogjVdHoyR0sE99xDgCCo/s144-o/20160826_191741.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145334151495890″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160826_191741.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]
August 27th
We made way to the ancient walled town of Dubrovnik. 50 Kunas (7 euro) per hour parking! You must be joking Dubrovnik! Nearly enough to see the fish from the night before come back up! Despite our adventures with ad hoc parking in Verona, we scoured the backstreets with a fine tooth-comb, and eventually landed some free parking 🙂
Climbing the walls of Dubrovnik was quite an experience. Incredible views of the city, the hills and the bay. And to appreciate the impact of the Yugoslav war you can count how many of the rooftops had to be rebuilt after shellings and attacks. Would definitely recommend this walk. Highly rated by the Lonely Planet as well incidentally 😉
We explored the city streets, ate lunch and then set off again in Seline, this time, bound for Montenegro!
It was evening time when we reached the border for Montenegro.
[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y0jnqj84vU0/V8r7qbsixnI/AAAAAAAAFaw/ouuVEjS39uM62yVjEwQ0kOLcndDfx0K5gCCo/s144-o/20160827_130757.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145333002946162″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_130757.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dVdwb25ttX0/V8r7qaBvNbI/AAAAAAAAFaw/Jg5K4qNONzoRLGyBP3QvtSteqWmdpPsOQCCo/s144-o/20160827_124810.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332554970546″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_124810.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wgmUqthaXJo/V8r7qeAf_jI/AAAAAAAAFaw/ZHAEkkZGL1EWttFooTL3Ts-00h5hyas-wCCo/s144-o/20160827_123858.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145333623520818″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_123858.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GkmjjQNXktY/V8r7qdw_EGI/AAAAAAAAFaw/Z72PlKmtBggclf1ihPZsKDBVBpnPBmZQwCCo/s144-o/20160827_123815.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145333558448226″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_123815.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gGjVwOOrqxo/V8r7qa3tktI/AAAAAAAAFaw/ywyQQuRFHDop1oAcpa3ClSGcE1TPX0A9ACCo/s144-o/20160827_122831.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332781355730″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_122831.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wO-lpp-QScM/V8r7qQPfHxI/AAAAAAAAFaw/8bpH7ux75vAQ2tV0nv94z54rmt-GBqd1ACCo/s144-o/20160827_121953.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145329928281874″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_121953.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]
August 28th
A burly border copper directed us towards the insurance depot. But not before offering us the option of spotting him a 20 euro in exchange of insurance-less access to Montenegro….a taste of the way of things here D
We got our greencard and drove on into this new country. Noticeably more chaotic, noisy and dishevelled than what we left behind in Croatia. But exciting, buzzy and charming nonetheless. We expected to drive to Budva, but halfway there, we were confronted with a car ferry, which every car going south on the roads loaded onto. So we did the same. We crossed the bay from Herci Govi as a flaming sun set over this amazing backdrop of turquoise waters, terracotta skies and slate-grey mountain tops. ‘Montenegro’….black mountains. Got it! We disembarked and drove to Kotor, a beautiful ancient walled town nestled on the bay. We parked up and headed inside the walled town, full of cobbled streets, live music, bustling restaurants and a buzzy atmosphere.
[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JzFZxpZ28iE/V8r7qYuNIQI/AAAAAAAAFaw/70dJVsRc9Igsr6FQY_nPlkpN8tFp2_91wCCo/s144-o/20160827_191031.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332204609794″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_191031.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lmFvjkwVnmY/V8r7qURNUVI/AAAAAAAAFaw/YshkT06qzK01PzcGyRr_IkFMIf2UQ-J7gCCo/s144-o/20160827_173106.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145331009245522″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_173106.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]
After dinner, we found a cozy pub, with some great outdoor live rock and guitar music. The craic was mighty…..until the Montenegran police suddenly ambushed in full force at 1am. They knocked off the guitar amps and commandeered the lead vocalist’s microphone. All men were to queue up to be searched. This was translated to us by locals beside us. Apparently, a commonplace thing in Montenegro. Nobody seemed fussed though. I escaped any interference, but poor Seb felt very violated by the whole thing. He’s recovering now 😉
[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h332RriInF0/V8r7qWevYEI/AAAAAAAAFaw/PGpg21psX4QkjRsRWgFT-TaxDAOarsnlgCCo/s144-o/20160827_234112.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145331602874434″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_234112.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]
August 29th
Today, we scaled the walls of Kotor. These walls were incredible! A vertical fortress rising to 260 metres above the sea. A serious engineering and building endeavor. And a serious endeavor for two rather hungover travelers, who were becoming increasingly less fit over time as a consequence of van life 😉 That evening we left Kotor, bound for more northern destinations in Montenegro. We stopped over in Cetinje to sleep. The old capital apparently. Nothing much to see here. Earns points for a quiet sleeping destination though!
[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KW0c-V38nK4/V8r7qaRbAfI/AAAAAAAAFaw/TN2NO2yZePo6rPCTtEPehrhWRGrPbQeQQCCo/s144-o/20160828_170542.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332620755442″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160828_170542.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_bDy-h-P2Xo/V8r7qU0WUEI/AAAAAAAAFaw/4T2OVMmuH0QdekivyRybqRdeuWcp0P7twCCo/s144-o/20160828_163836.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145331156635714″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160828_163836.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Na3y8C5Py78/V8r7qfbdE2I/AAAAAAAAFaw/eTdz4r9JxYsg54l0zXuNbGgg8NwuGxp_gCCo/s144-o/20160828_163256-PANO.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145334005011298″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160828_163256-PANO.jpg” image_size=”4232×1183″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AYxk15_bDYs/V8r7qT8isZI/AAAAAAAAFaw/uLo8-4H-45ALPVBgk2fKp3h6ntHNUQhCgCCo/s144-o/20160828_163300.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145330922566034″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160828_163300.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]
August 30th
Bound for Dormitoor National park, we stopped off in Ostrog monastery on the way. A cliffside monastery in the Montanegran mountains, still housed by monks, living their lives in prayer and abstinence. The first thing we noticed here, was the overflowing skips just downhill from the monastery. More empty wine and beer bottles than you could shake a stick at! That answered our question about how these people could live such lives of solitude and isolation.
We walked around the parts of the monastery that were within limits for the public. At one point, we accidentally walked into the private wake of a monk. For those unfamiliar, this is where a deceased body is laid out for people to pray over. When we found ourselves in a queue, and suddenly at the top of this queue, face to face with the corpse and another monk standing over him (very much alive!), we did what any complete idiots would do…mumble something incomprehensible, bless oneself, some sort of bowing action, then scurry away ASAP…phew…incognito and subtle as bricks 🙂
By the way, lonely planet rates this place as a ‘dont miss’ entity…..odd socks rate this as ‘don’t bother your backside’. Its miles away, up a windy, corkscrew hill climb. The heat is stifling. And there are dozens of tourists wandering about fighting for fridge magnets, key rings and rosary beads. The Montenegran of Knock, high in the mountains (to those who’ve been)!
[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gEnNhtoJwfE/V8r7qZmDw8I/AAAAAAAAFaw/lZMVQVXutdwGrC_W5S2fmwMGe_XnUcVCwCCo/s144-o/20160829_134458.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332438877122″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160829_134458.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4uYQ-A0fAkg/V8r7qZmqSJI/AAAAAAAAFaw/XJL6AbbEzVAAE4l06HcP-xVwFVwW8FukQCCo/s144-o/20160829_124123.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332441401490″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160829_124123.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SCMD2JBjd28/V8r7qb6MKjI/AAAAAAAAFaw/mSrwkM8C38g56kWbc207XvwrwqdSTC4JACCo/s144-o/20160829_122917.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145333060184626″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160829_122917.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]
We continued on the road for Durmitor, and made it there eventually, but not before being stopped by another cop on the roads. He stopped us for not having lights on. This is a no-no in Montenegro, regardless of time of day. But if we paid a 20 euro ‘fine’, we could drive on. We looked surprised. Then he dropped the price to 10 euro. Flexible fining, but lets not complain….ten is better than twenty afterall 🙂
We reached Jabljak by dusk, walked around the pretty jezero negro (the black lake), then parked up for the night.
[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yhe4TAidW88/V8r7qS7W7rI/AAAAAAAAFaw/HRR6i-Q01VQXRksJcfvJp8JU8FJK07YrQCCo/s144-o/20160829_190404.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145330649165490″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160829_190404.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]
August 31st
An early start, ready for some fresh mountain air and much needed exercise! We set off towards the national park. After sourcing a map (of very dodgy quality) in the local post office, we decided to take on a challenging route, that included ascending Bobatov Kuk, Montenegro’s highest peak at 2,523 metres. Signs at the park entrance told us that Bobatov Kuk was a 6 hour hike. Our map said 5. Our instinct said this was a time for the round trip probably. Our legs said, ‘who cares? Just start walking and see what happens’. So we set off. A long and difficult ascent. Steep inclines. Massive boulders and slippery scree. But a well marked route. Amazing views. When we finally reached the summit, the views that awaited were well worth the effort. Have a look at the photos below for yourself. And the ridiculous video clip, delirious from fatigue and dehydration 😉
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We descended slowly, dreaming of cold beers and resting our weary legs. Near the bottom of the mountain lived a lovely old man in a hut, where he sold cold beer to weary climbers. He sold no water, just beer 🙂 We gratefully bought some and continued on our way out of the park with lighter legs now and hungry bellies!
Wow, amazing views and scenery. Well done, I admire your energy! Keep enjoying yourselves xxx
I just love reading about your adventures and seeing your pictures. And you tell it all with such gusto and humour. Keep it coming!