Month: September 2016

First off, apologies for the delay with this latest blog entry. We’ve had some technical challenges which have kept us offline (Seb can tell you a long, riveting story about it) 😀

But, moving forward, welcome to our next blog installment. hope you enjoy the read 🙂

August 30th

We last left you in an ecstatic mood, after conquering Mount Bobatov Kuk… in Zabljak in Northern Montenegro. Well, on descent of the mountain, an unexpected turn of events meant that our gaiety quickly flipped to devastation. We left the national park, and walked towards the van, pooped after the long days slog and ready for some r and r. We were greeted by a sea of papers and documents strewn across the front seats of the van….a gulf of panic enveloped us….This didn’t look good!

 

Further inspection led to the realisation that we’d been broken into! The side window had been plied open, and some so and so had broken in and had a rummage around. Both passports and one of our wallets gone! Computers and all other possessions still there, but passports gone!! Gut wrenching…to put it mildly 🙁  Parked on the roadside by a popular national park, in the very early hours of the evening, after a nice hike……we weren’t expecting this! We debated what to do next. The thieves had clearly scarpered, and it was getting darker and later into the evening, so we parked up in the nearest campsite, had a bit of a cry (not me, Seb), and had some Montenegran beer to soften the blow a bit.

 

August 31st

As you can imagine, this was really one fun filled day! So much to sort out! We headed towards town early, to face the admin onslaught which awaited. First was a trip to the police station. Eager as they were to help, there wasn’t a word of English between the Montenegran police officers. We eventually got the help of a bartender from the nearby pub to translate. It took a few hours to get the paperwork completed and reports filed (not before being told off for not reporting it yesterday… and a quick moment where we thought we might be prosecuted for not paying our tourist tax). See below photo of Seb leaving police station, looking suspiciously sketchy and guilty?!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C4CuL-S8dNI/V-1nFTfkpOI/AAAAAAAAG4A/xz6MJGfi404_0kePF1eIMJHxkt2CaUPrACCo/s144-o/20160831_110225.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833591609861346″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160831_110225.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Gzj6K1sJGeQ/V-1nFXMqSAI/AAAAAAAAG4A/XNzhTzneWAw46MEX5HwhKQBbQHCmpnmQQCCo/s144-o/20160831_110219.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833592604280834″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160831_110219.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]

Next came the calls to the British and Irish embassies. Seb was able to get support from the British embassy in Montenegro. However, it transpires theres no Irish embassy in the whole Balkan region, the nearest being Budapest, Hungary! However, fortunately, the British embassy showed some neighbourly hospitality and agreed to help me out, as an Irish citizen, too!

Feeling defeated and exhausted, we made the long trip south towards the capital, Podgorica, where we would have a meeting with the consulate the next day. Looking for a ‘quiet place’ to park up, we got lost in the hinterlands around the city limits. Then suddenly, a light beamed from the bank of the river running beside us. It was the light from a lively, inviting looking bar full of merry fishermen having beers and sing songs.

We pulled up, relieved by the sight of light, and eager for a cold beer. The sing song ensued. As did the beer drinking. Some kind fishermen included us in their round of beers, and spoke and sang to us in Montenegran (about how beautiful Aoife is) and Serbian. We spoke back in English, with no understanding, but all the understanding that’s required really when you’re in the middle if a fishermen’s sing song! Great fun!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ypyiwy2UsEE/V-1nFaRRILI/AAAAAAAAG4A/wtDmnyLKQSkI-07wuVjYbBz1cBbhWUXHQCCo/s144-o/20160901_083601.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593428910258″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160901_083601.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

 As the crowd dispersed we said our goodnights and made for the van. There was a knock in the door as we got ready to hit the hay for the night. Milos, the young Serbian bartender, had come knocking to get us up for another round of drinks with him. He felt bad that we were sleeping in a van (not the done thing around these parts), and invited us back to the bar to have more beers with him. The hospitality was too much, but would be rude to refuse, so we carried on into the early hours.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rUPU9VKr4bg/V-1nFcREr8I/AAAAAAAAG4A/xsXu85m7KWMPwmxIuFLSvwVtHDOGV-DKgCCo/s144-o/20160831_231431.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593964965826″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160831_231431.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f8t3UTuSSvY/V-1nFYW2fLI/AAAAAAAAG4A/lYrPLwws-ug4LjuUHelF_7ot3hrQj2ScACCo/s144-o/20160831_231411.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833592915459250″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160831_231411.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

September 1st

We awoke this morning, feeling worse for wear, to the sound of another knock on the van. An invite for coffee in one of the local men’s houses where we were invigorated by the “traditional” Montenegran breakfast of strong, sweet coffee with a shot of home distilled spirit. This was followed by a tour of the tiny town. Very very ironically, this town was called Zabljak! The same name as the town we had just been robbed in up north! Apparently this Zabljak, now a tiny fishing village of less than a hundred people, was once the old capital of the region! We got the full history lesson before we left. A proud and welcoming community of people. Completely restored our faith and restored our love of Montenegro!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LYCC205yP5g/V-1nFdXApYI/AAAAAAAAG4A/q6bR-4gi0soPKjh5HVDoE6fPL_s_AtBNgCCo/s144-o/20160901_083613.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833594258302338″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160901_083613.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KimHlzV3de0/V-1nFX4lrrI/AAAAAAAAG4A/7lBxR8-K7Q8UdihwzzxYbsQsAnqwidohgCCo/s144-o/20160901_083426.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833592788528818″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160901_083426.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

We set off towards the embassy for our appointment that day. After a few hours of trepidation, we left the embassy, emergency passports in hand! Free for onward travel! Seb got his emergency British passport, and I had now suddenly become the owner of a British passport too! As a proud Irish citizen, I was conflicted about having this new identity bestowed on me. What would they say at home??! But, alas, beggars cant be choosers!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hBtLO_NC6zw/V-1pQXlFJAI/AAAAAAAAG4U/WtfUkyUeBLgnrkU5ZKzWNuYySPXh2JwagCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160929-WA0011.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335835980708520962″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160929-WA0011.jpg” image_size=”1200×1600″ ]

 

We stole off with our new yellow passports and made for the border hills  and crossed into Kosovan territory later that night. We were greeted by some very friendly border police, asking all about Man United and Liverpool, and singing ‘you’ll never walk alone. Cheered us up after the long drive anyway! We drove into the city of Peja, and parked up in a spacious carpark on the outskirts of town.

 

September 2nd

The next morning, we awoke to a gaggle of taxi-men standing outside the camper looking bemused. When we opened the pop roof, they were bewildered altogether! Not too many campervans floating around Kosovo it seems! Mobile phones were produced, and we invited them inside to take snaps. We wandered into Peja then, a beautiful, traditional Kosovan city in the foothills of the Rugova mountains. We wandered around the enticing bazaars where all sorts of paraphernalia was onsale, from flashy ‘gypsy wedding’ ball-gowns to delicious fruits and vegetables, to toy ammunition and rifles to Kosovan flags and motifs. There are lots of reminders of the wars in Kosovo over the last decade. NATO KFOR jeep and troops abound, and there’ a strong sense of remembrance of the events and the role of the British and American government in supporting the Kosovan independence struggle. See below photos of Bill Clinton on Billboards, London taxi companies and even Tony Blair street. He can definitely retire in Kosovo if public favour continues to wane in the UK 😉

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cT5BeJCe5fE/V-1nFXcgtII/AAAAAAAAG4A/jzS_tlWYshcssjWR24Vh5VYwoUzDterzACCo/s144-o/Screenshot_20160906-173856.png” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833592670762114″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”Screenshot_20160906-173856.png” image_size=”2560×1440″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vWIB0GvRkf8/V-1nFU7sJgI/AAAAAAAAG4A/gPFhyXiAVKotHpr1uowVFHkp9MnaPgydgCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160903-WA0001.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833591996229122″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160903-WA0001.jpg” image_size=”1600×1200″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JijZ44P2Mi0/V-1nFRNrhhI/AAAAAAAAG4A/RYXTDe3hIc0zXHHoEVnS455EhbidfccdwCCo/s144-o/20160903_103452.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833590997943826″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160903_103452.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

In the afternoon we hiked in the Rugova mountains, and got chatting to the local shepherdess women who were herding sheep on the mountains. Temperatures plummet there in winter, and the farmers and sheep herders live in isolated dwellings high on the mountaintops. They collect stacks of wood in the summer to store in sheds, to last them through the cold, long winters. The Rugovan men and women were clearly a tough posse!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d0cI16lGE_w/V-1nFbV2mDI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/TGcqpovCOrwOWpoSydZWNNX-XBdPoVAcACCo/s144-o/20160902_182913.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593716578354″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160902_182913.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TOOitzIwvSA/V-1nFVpMA5I/AAAAAAAAG4A/7k73iT6oAFoU6tsaWBPPm5vnFNrDra_QQCCo/s144-o/20160902_174713.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833592187061138″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160902_174713.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CWtWPavtBrg/V-1nFR-Gr5I/AAAAAAAAG4Y/UdxOX-I3P00fFHIjSJheJKfy_Imn9hVlwCCo/s144-o/20160902_162317.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833591201050514″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160902_162317.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nKs-EBQm6Qw/V-1nFcxe4NI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/9ZjGtJHZQPoPVkoqlbHEuLPCEb87br1BQCCo/s144-o/20160902_162311.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833594100900050″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160902_162311.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3pUSefNSU38/V-1nFaaPB4I/AAAAAAAAG4Y/FyuL1286EH4pMtBy4SLQtNlgubdgify8QCCo/s144-o/20160902_143150.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593466521474″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160902_143150.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

 

September 3rd

We set alarms to get up bright and early for the famed Peja cheese market. This takes place every Saturday apparently. All the farmers from the neighbouring lands travel to the town, bringing huge kegs full of cheese to sell. The smells were glorious and the atmosphere was alive, with everyone out-shouting each other to sell their goods. We tasted plenty of delicious produce, and bought far too much! Half of what we bought we had to throw out a few days later when our fridge packed in and the cheese went off. In order to throw it out, it first had to be pried from Sebs steely grip! Letting go of the cheese was on par with the passport loss for him 😉

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3q0dPc9RwwQ/V-1nFazFULI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/cBsTpxKVYioLpHd5BaaqCQ5PwzK40e5zgCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160903-WA0007.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593570742450″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160903-WA0007.jpg” image_size=”1600×1200″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SBofKn2qCKE/V-1nFU0Dk-I/AAAAAAAAG4Y/iwdFKYJoAFYwpm1BZn3HNr7UqxMuvBKIgCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160903-WA0006.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833591964210146″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160903-WA0006.jpg” image_size=”1600×1200″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4R5zT4ZXGbg/V-1nFeYA8nI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/6BoE5bgcbIUt08zcDwHIuzcEwHUnvma8ACCo/s144-o/IMG-20160903-WA0002.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833594530951794″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160903-WA0002.jpg” image_size=”1200×1600″ ]

We drove to the Kosovan capital of Pristina that evening. Pristina it turns out is a very young, fun and cosmopolitan city. A nice place to park up and spend a few days. We parked in a car-park about 30 metres from the central city square. Prime location! A surveillance Police van took position about 5 metres from us. A bit close for comfort, but the assurance of safety anyway for the nights we spent here! Funnily, they weren’t in the least bit bothered by us camping next to them, cooking breakfast there, playing tunes. Very chilled out bunch altogether. A bit cramped in the mornings however, when we’d wake to find police officers practically leaning on the van, having their coffee and bureks and chatting loudly!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6S3bnA-F8Qc/V-1nFQOmc1I/AAAAAAAAG4Y/nn2yftlNQfIEk2_G-J5RClsJRdykCkuUgCCo/s144-o/20160905_115820.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833590733370194″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160905_115820.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PSBNs8Y27Fo/V-1rT1pBdfI/AAAAAAAAG4o/PHl4zKOfRBkYPQrLC7ayowiKDBavI3KEQCCo/s144-o/20160905_093302.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335838239340983794″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160905_093302.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]

BTW A burek is a cheese filled pastry snack, which is very popular around the Balkans, and which Seb has become addicted too. The cheese here is generally white and feta-like in appearance, but with more bite to it. Very very tasty indeed!

 

September 4th

This Sunday morning, we explored the city a bit more, and then made way to the ethnographic museum, to learn all about Balkan and Kosovan culture and history. The curator of the museum took us on a really interesting and insightful tour. This helped us to have a better understanding of the cultural and historical complexities of Kosovo and the whole Balkan region. Highly recommend this museum!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FNxcxjtk-hY/V-1nFZxwPMI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/0eO74Dorm6MUbES0gSE-Ye5JO9C0uF0GgCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160904-WA0010.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593296731330″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160904-WA0010.jpg” image_size=”1600×1200″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fFCjM5R1iN0/V-1nFTWCafI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/vBmuamXB-b8WsuY0WLyI0KpkieULn0wDQCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160904-WA0007.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833591569869298″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160904-WA0007.jpg” image_size=”1600×1200″ ]

Later in the afternoon, we went on a wander through Pristina, seeking a sports bar where, with a one in a million chance, I might possibly get to see the All Ireland Hurling Final which was about to start. Miraculously, Seb found a bar with the full range of Sky Sports channels, and we were able to find the Kilkenny/Tipp game, with full commentary and everything! The bar staff were only too happy to put the hurling on, and cheer on the blue team and ask what was going on every now and then 😉

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7eOmIYEiuf8/V-1nFbDRUqI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/IMZ1ai5cMI8ILzQvmMWHJ5LKly8Gvz5rgCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160904-WA0020.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593638638242″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160904-WA0020.jpg” image_size=”1600×1200″ ]

September 5th

This morning, we waved our surveillance buddies goodbye and set off for Macedonia. En route we stopped off at a wonderful bear sanctuary outside Pristina. This was a large area of woodland housing Kosovan bears, which had been rescued from horrendous circumstances. They had been caged and displayed outside restaurants in various parts of the country, as a means to entice customers. This practice was commonplace until about 10 years ago. The sanctuary is beautiful, and definitely worth a look and a donation if you’re passing 🙂

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DbvvW6ONfwU/V-1nFbTHzdI/AAAAAAAAG4E/61jDN9XFYvEB9zebqCS0lW64VY-Gnn_DACCo/s144-o/20160905_132118.mp4″ href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593705123282″ caption=”” type=”video” alt=”20160905_132118.mp4″ image_size=”852×480″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-okj3UdNeFt8/V-1nFb7X8KI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/7XjR6VZUf4ote3OxZ35x7bR7-8MzLcmdACCo/s144-o/20160905_131911.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593873952930″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160905_131911.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WxWv2OMquSw/V-1nFZ-tYxI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/MaYtYJHxh1McpcQCkcUcpemuaKdQXJODACCo/s144-o/20160905_124727.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593351070482″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160905_124727.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]

We crossed another border, pretty much hassle free except for a bill for 50 euro for car insurance to drive in Macedonia for one day! Robbery! Anyway, we arrived in Skopje, the capital city, early in the evening and went for a look about in the old bazaar part of the town. Skopje has a new cosmopolitan centre, and an old historic bazaar centre. The latter is definitely more interesting and fun. We wandered the narrow cobbled streets and settled in a cosy meze and wine bar eventually. We enjoyed a few glasses and then walked back towards the car park, weary after a long day driving.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Kgp7yL0lq7E/V-1pQUboRLI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/IMn3H5COhrATftmxSDlBdFddf9QBop35gCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160929-WA0000.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335835979863573682″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160929-WA0000.jpg” image_size=”1600×1200″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t2upMfW6SmA/V-1nFb_WfxI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/aCVVBrTwmbUnQg-jjKsVWnfI_i2d1SvZACCo/s144-o/20160905_171144.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593890635538″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160905_171144.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qd6NZ5IF1Lk/V-1pQbmX0pI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/SX4cn4a4XP4nbx-a1LRmwjmvNuR3idRBQCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160929-WA0012.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335835981787681426″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160929-WA0012.jpg” image_size=”1200×1600″ ]

 

To our dismay, the car park was locked! We assumed it was a public car park, but clearly it must have belonged to someone or something. We decided the best plan was to hop a fence to get into the car park and subtly make our way for the van and cosy up for the night. We could get up and out early in the morning, unnoticed by the proprietors. But we’d had more than a couple of glasses in that wine bar, and our coordination wasn’t as its optimal, and Seb had an almighty landing, from the fence to the carpark ground. He was uninjured, but the clatter was loud enough to rouse the museum proprietor ( the carpark of which we had parked in!). All this was translated to us by some young lads who saw the furore and came to our assistance, while the old man huffed and puffed, and even at one point made a handcuff gesture! As if to say he would have us arrested! The lads laughed hysterically at this. All the same, the gates were opened and we were ushered out of the car park. Luckily we found a roadside spot a few hundred metres up the road to park in and finally go to sleep!

 

September 6th

A slow start this morning, we hit the bazaar for some comfort food. Some kebabs and coke hit the spot and we were recovered again!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tSB6tlvgh0U/V-1nFYxPcCI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/2X_Z5UIMdcMmDOdTV7gmCsWaoed2y24gACCo/s144-o/20160906_110457.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833593026146338″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160906_110457.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

We wandered down towards the new part of town and visited the Macedonian Jewish Holocaust museum and then the Mother Teresa museum (the birthplace of whom was Skopje).

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BakGlcZIwyk/V-1nFSs0jII/AAAAAAAAG4Y/zup30S014gs-DyMoGOqyV1rSn4ryB-n-QCCo/s144-o/20160906_115351.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833591396994178″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160906_115351.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U67S0rN5TOU/V-1nFVgyTXI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/P7aL3fXrFWIYO-iXlMF_LyWF4ljDust-wCCo/s144-o/20160906_114952.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833592151821682″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160906_114952.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-akz46sZur1w/V-1nFSTjMDI/AAAAAAAAG4Y/DPVgFjxwPsM1IIRruuROfaetT3awXBrGgCCo/s144-o/20160906_114807.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335833591290998834″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160906_114807.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-itR46Dspep4/V-1uk2ZAorI/AAAAAAAAG5A/TA9ssJ9KH9Qzyfvg5L9Z-_ZPZqZhTQ7awCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160929-WA0013.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6335841830134915762″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160929-WA0013.jpg” image_size=”1600×1200″ ]

We packed up Seline, and set off for another long drive and border crossing, this time into Bulgaria! Many of the Balkan countries we passed up until this point are quite small, in particular Kosovo, Macedonia and Montenegro. Hence the fast transitions from border to border! We arrived into Sofia late in the evening, after a fairly painless border crossing, and made way towards the airport. We got lucky by coming across an IBIS which offered secure parking for 3 euro per night….an ideal place to leave Seline while we ventured off to Ireland for the wedding of Juliene and Shane!

So having completed all the dirty mods to the van, she was now fully equipped with a pop up roof, hatchback tailgate and a nice set of tinted windows for keeping nosy passers by out!  However, the inside was in worse shape than when I bought her, meaning there was some serious work to do to get it fit for living in for the amount of time that we’d be away.  First of all I needed to clean out all the crap that the previous owner had left in the load bay.  After an hour of elbow grease this was the result:

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IPw4DfWHW4I/V8xI_pOW7xI/AAAAAAAAFiQ/5GWAWJTjTQsLXbCk4cRlzQil7sRYuzr0gCCo/s144-o/20160616_154819.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6323487077200757329#6326511834783739666″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160616_154819.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]

The next step was to insulate, put in the plywood floor and line the van with carpet to give a nice smart base in which to put the other things.  I had already learnt that doing anything in the van took about twice as long as I was used to from other DIY type projects on account of the small space and the number of corners and curved lines.  Fortunately, house renovation had taught me something about building materials and working with tools and I had a fully equipped workshop at the house for doing any wood based bits of fit out.

I decided that unlike most conversions, the floor of the van would be insulated.  Although this may seem counter intuitive given that heat rises, I wanted to be sure that come winter we would have warm feet!  The height of the van allows little scope for thick insulation however 25mm of Celotex would fit in just fine and would make a big difference.  I levelled the floor with some offcuts of 9mm plywood, boxed off all the openings with 25mm batten (to match the thickness of insulation) and set about cutting the insulation in.  A few hours later this was the result:

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8kfLKpT634w/V8xI_pn-V2I/AAAAAAAAFiQ/vt4o7HL6Si0YQGMAO5aVGrnSZbN04DDVQCCo/s144-o/20160617_104317.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6323487077200757329#6326511834891179874″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160617_104317.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z7oWd4Eluuk/V8xI_idP95I/AAAAAAAAFiQ/nHk48Qdqv0ESni7Yq9p4bdy60hvRge-EQCCo/s144-o/20160617_113545.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6323487077200757329#6326511832967149458″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160617_113545.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]

For filling in the panels I did a bit of research to see what others had decided to use.  From an insulation efficiency perspective, Celotex always gives the most warmth per mm of thickness.  However, it is also at least as important to ensure there are no gaps otherwise cold air will pass straight through.  Rockwool was traditionally used for the old T25 campers so I decided that this would do just fine making up for its relatively poor U value with the fact that it easily fills any odd shapes.  It also had the added advantage of being an excellent sound deadener- something that a few journeys in the empty van had shown me would be incredibly important.  I decided to increase the deadening effect by adding some roof flashing to all of the large panels and to the reinforcing channels that I had added when doing the pop roof conversion.  There were mixed opinions online about whether flashband did the same job as the more expensive “proper” sound deadening material however the proper stuff would have cost me £100s so the decision was easy!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W6TuChP9880/V8xI_uKr_hI/AAAAAAAAFiQ/jMH6xTNG2PwdZgqM4TJca1ZWadUmQ15RQCCo/s144-o/20160617_141043.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6323487077200757329#6326511836110519826″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160617_141043.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

Once the insulation was done, I spent a day refitting the original hardboard panels that came with the van and added some additional plywood where necessary to smooth the contours of the back and she was finally ready to be carpeted!  Now, all the guides say that you need two people to successfully carpet a van on account of the fact that you need to do each side in one piece.  Unfortunately there was only little old me on my own so I needed to come up with a way of doing it.  I first cut down the roll of carpet into all the separate bits that I would need; Two small ones for the wheel arches, two very large ones for the sides and a bit for each door.  In the end by working carefully, firmly and smoothly from top to bottom and in to out on every panel, I achieved it.  In reality the actual carpet fitting only took a day- it had taken more than a full day to prep first.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZowKAJDgFmk/V8xI_rXN3sI/AAAAAAAAFiQ/D3YQ4b1yAsEw9Gt8GabWLZ6BJ0NACOjkwCCo/s144-o/20160617_141046.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6323487077200757329#6326511835357765314″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160617_141046.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pFje2bhPT4Q/V8xI_u5N12I/AAAAAAAAFiQ/X4JajljbF8cKERDeFAtSX72cEMrzU4c8ACCo/s144-o/20160621_161232.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6323487077200757329#6326511836305676130″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160621_161232.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

 

Finally Seline was starting to look like she might make a home!

That’s all for now folks!  Next time I’ll write about making up the cupboards and fitting the bed.

Hi guys, I’ve put together a bit of info on the van conversion cos I thought a few of you might be interested in how we got it together 🙂  Enjoy!

I initially had the idea of converting a van to do a short trip around the top of Scandinavia.  To explore that wilderness by camper van seemed like the perfect choice as I wanted to be free from worry about accommodation etc.  That quickly morphed into a more ambitious plan for both the van and the trip!

Selection of the Van

Although people have converted many different types of van successfully, for me buying a VW transporter was always likely to be the right choice.  I’ve owned a few vehicles from VW Group in the past which have always been comfortable and reliable- the only question then was what age, condition and features should it have?  I quickly realised that second hand values for T5 Transporters are both high and robust; I needed to lose my prejudices about what constituted high mileage to get something for a realistic price.  There were vans on sale that already had 250,000 miles on the clock.  I considered this far too much but settled for a range between 100,000 and 150,000 as the best compromise between useful life left and cost.  The specification of the van was another brain teaser.  I knew that I wanted a hatchback tailgate and probably a nice paint job eventually but would it be worth spending a lot extra on these things, especially the paint, when I was already doing a big conversion job on it anyway and would almost certainly damage it during the process.  Long or Short wheelbase was another big decision to make but in the end I chose the practicality of driving and parking a SWB van (which fits in a normal size space) over the extra room of the LWB.

In the end I found Rosy for sale (now renamed Seline… in honour of a hurricane survived!) in north London.  As a standard white panel van with 103,000 miles on the clock she represented the perfect blank canvass and with a full service history I hoped that she would prove to be a reliable investment.  Having parted with £5000 in notes I felt like a threshold had been crossed.  This really was happening and needed to get my stuff together and get the van converted and ready to go.

Specification

The interesting thing about converting a van from scratch is that there is no template or formula for what the layout of it should be.  Obviously the VW T5 Californias have a certain layout but there is no requirement to follow this.  If it works for you then its ok!  This left me with the problem of working out exactly what I was going to do when living in the van; having no experience of even using a camper van before made this somewhat difficult!  Nevertheless, a wild camping trip with Aoife to Devon at the beginning of June help to crystallise the ideas that I had already had:

• Pop up roof- a must for someone as tall as me.
• Tailgate- barn doors didn’t cut it in the rain as it could fall straight into the van.
• Side windows in the front of the van only- it isn’t nice to sleep with your head next to a window.
• Sink with running water and hob using camping gas.
• No toilet or shower- the van space is too small to make this realistic.
• More cupboard space for food and clothes than a factory California conversion- you need quite a bit of stuff to be comfortable.
• A fridge.

The trip also had the added benefit of getting me excited about the trip ahead.  Even camping in an unconverted van was a big step up in ease and fun from using a tent!

The Build

I decided that it would take me two months to convert the van and get it ready to go.  This coincided nicely with when Aoife finished work and would be ready to go.  Of course, having set myself a comfortable deadline I then proceeded to fill up almost four weeks of this time with other (fun) activities.  Everything took longer than expected and I came across many issues that I hadn’t anticipated.  A very early example was that I assumed having a woodworking workshop at my house and building tools would mean I had everything I needed to do this.  How wrong I was!  I spent the first two days going back and forth between the house, Screwfix and Halfords to pick up the right size and type of sockets and drivers to even work on the van (ever heard of a Spline bit?  No, I hadn’t either!)

Having got all my tools together, I started but stripping the inside of anything that I either didn’t need or didn’t want damaged.  Everything was boxed and kept; having already looked for some spare parts for the van I knew that everything that came off could be sold.  In the end, I sold both back doors, the roof rack, the bulkhead and a few other odds and sods for a tidy sum making a nice little addition to the budget.

The first job was to do all the dirty modification work namely the roof, windows and tailgate.  The roof was manufactured as a kit which I needed to pick up from Manchester and I picked up the fridge and bed frame at the same time.  I made a separate trip to Barnsley to pick up the tailgate which I got from a scrapyard for a song (yes, cheap enough to be worth the 8 hour round trip!).  So having got everything, and with a deep breath I started cutting holes out of the van!

Thats all for now…  More about fitting out the van next time!

Hi everyone, welcome to the next installment from our travels.  Have a good read 🙂

But first off some validation spotted by Juliene Helbert passing through Dublin Airport:

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L4X2Qaj2fBc/V8r75DIFVwI/AAAAAAAAFa0/VOg29RGGh-c197OQPIuFcOGb-hND2slSwCCo/s144-o/IMG-20160901-WA0000.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145584105608962″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”IMG-20160901-WA0000.jpg” image_size=”760×1344″ ]

August 23rd

Having survived the night of Hurricane Seline we pushed on through Croatia to get to Split where we would catch the ferry out to Hvar Island.  Lack of sleep was definitely affecting our decision making, because having made it to Split, got a ferry ticket and got in the queue, we decided to embark on a bit of fridge maintenance!  Naturally there wasn’t the time to finish the job so having taken everything apart, we had to put it all back together again, unfixed.  Doh!  Still, at least there was time to pick up a few cold beers for the ferry ride over to Hvar.  The sea was surprisingly calm considering the conditions the night before and we even managed a little sleep in the sun on deck…Heaven!

 

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4I2nKgQocIA/V8r7qf7vw8I/AAAAAAAAFaw/X5Y80GZSBkAFaJZDbMRKbLelAAHWFG4jACCo/s144-o/20160823_183337.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145334140453826″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160823_183337.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ValofGYXq30/V8r7qdKEsCI/AAAAAAAAFaw/cF7F4qhyazMmOCNC626v0SsFPs7-sJ7KwCCo/s144-o/20160823_183325.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145333395238946″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160823_183325.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VDyMJMOzUmY/V8r7qX6Ci4I/AAAAAAAAFaw/7L5qvN_p2ok0cd0HZGOkw1Q8isvlFk1fQCCo/s144-o/20160823_183316.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145331985812354″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160823_183316.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SYA8kZRJJ3Q/V8r7qd7ldtI/AAAAAAAAFaw/OXRp8dZgVKMePZckH_RdmAThU-m8TOWkwCCo/s144-o/20160823_113433.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145333602907858″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160823_113433.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

 

Of course having arrived late at Split it was even later when we arrived on the Island but we set off towards Hvar town in the hope of finding a nice campsite to park in.  After finding no parking spots, we stumbled upon a deserted campsite about 10 mins walk from the town centre.  With no idea if it was even open we camped up for the night and set off into town in search of much needed food and some fun!  We soon discovered that the Balkans are not cheap everywhere and the prices on Hvar are as bad as London! Among the hoards of manic gap year backpackers we had a couple of espresso martinis and decided to call it a night. Couldn’t keep up with that!

August 24th

Next morning was bright and the wind from Hurricane Seline had finally dropped off so we decided to rent mopeds for the day and explore the island. We haggled a price and we set off on the back roads.  Thanks to Aoife’s excellent (and regular) instruction, I soon had the hang of driving it!  Away from the main town the island was totally deserted and we drove for what felt like hours reveling in the sunshine, the views of the other islands rising from azure waters and the smells of lavender and pine.  We happened upon a little farm at the side of the road with an old guy selling olives, honey and alcohol.  In need of a break we stopped to sample his wares.  We tried a few including some kind of herby spirit and decided the kick from it alone was worth buying a little bottle D. Somewhat merrier, we continued on our way and drove to what we thought from the map would be a beach.  It turned out that there were two roads serving this little town and we’d chosen the wrong one- it was a 30km round trip by road or a 50m swim to the beach!  On the plus side, the trip gave us a chance to pick some figs for desert 🙂

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0CDU3Y1pZtI/V8r7qST8ztI/AAAAAAAAFaw/1ZhQ0wgWBvwIYReGS749k9pFn0FMvcqwgCCo/s144-o/20160824_175427.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145330483875538″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160824_175427.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n8ehgwoEp3g/V8r7qTO-gFI/AAAAAAAAFaw/PmS4C-bfdhkskSQpMfYwg-ysT3B7VxL8ACCo/s144-o/20160824_175325.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145330731450450″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160824_175325.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3HpP45kw7WM/V8r7qbEqYuI/AAAAAAAAFaw/8i7XYVL54t0TJhU6DYpTLa1kQHX8BBj_ACCo/s144-o/20160824_120933.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332835672802″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160824_120933.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Jjv7eo296VY/V8r7qZJ8AhI/AAAAAAAAFaw/KfMaeFl8pO4B7XzWrwTgCxOSCf_A5kRcACCo/s144-o/20160826_135105.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332320928274″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160826_135105.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]

 

Running low on petrol we asked at the local restaurant where the nearest place to fill up was- Jelsa we were told, right where we started and at least 40km away!  Apparently Hvar only has two petrol stations…  There was no prospect that what fuel we had would last that long and the only guy in town with fuel was nowhere to be found so we set off again in search of a beach and someone who would sell us fuel. We got around to the  beach eventually, and passed out on the pebbles, exhausted from the stress of engine revs 😀

A guy at the restaurant was able to sell us some petrol, and we left with a 2 litre coke bottle of the stuff. we filled the tank and took to the hills again. We got back to the campsite late, cooked up some squid and hit the hay early.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/–dvVa3JkDBE/V8r7qYAigmI/AAAAAAAAFaw/qAR0Owqts-E7dJ0bQCtHPZQyD4oTbez_gCCo/s144-o/20160824_175302.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332013072994″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160824_175302.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

 

August 25th

We hit the port early this morning, to make our way to the Pakleni islands on a water taxi. Famed for its fine sands and nudist beaches, we landed at a very pretty, but pebbled and rock encrusted shore, with not one naked person to be seen…..how disappointing 😉 Very relaxing day though, sunbathing on the rocks, dips in the sea and beers in the shady bar nearby. We hopped on a water taxi back into Hvar that evening, and went in search of a fish market. We were directed to what can only be described as the Tesco superstore of fish mortuaries. We were led inside by a kind lady, who asked what fish we wanted and then opened giant vault into the crypts of fish laid to rest there. So many fish….soooo cheap! We picked out some delicious looking bass and cooked up a feast on the stone barbecue at the campsite that night. Washed down with some Croatian wine and a shot of our friends potent Raki/ Brandy/ who knows what! 🙂

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FC2oP0aK84o/V8r7qSrlQcI/AAAAAAAAFaw/Heug2fN88c06gDVktYNJqX-7AXPUWnFEwCCo/s144-o/20160825_192258.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145330582995394″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160825_192258.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ]

 

August 26th

We were sad to pack up and leave Hvar this morning. We drove to the far end of the island to board a ferry for the mainland. This ferry was a swift trip, only an hour long. We landed on the coast of Croatia and set off for the trip to Dubrovnik. What a spectacular drive. Incredible scenery! Apparently this is one of the top rated drives of the world. Pretty special 🙂

We decided to aim for a quiet spot to camp on the outskirts of Dubrovnik, and explore the next day. By chance, we passed a mussel farm on the road south, and were able to get a kilo of mussels and 6 oysters for about 5 euro….dinner sorted! We found a quiet inlet 5km from Dubrovnik and parked up. A run, a swim and a seafood feast on the shore 🙂

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ghw9qygvs_Y/V8r7qf-YQNI/AAAAAAAAFaw/3DN5LZLyYiYlS8RVogjVdHoyR0sE99xDgCCo/s144-o/20160826_191741.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145334151495890″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160826_191741.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

 

August 27th

We made way to the ancient walled town of Dubrovnik. 50 Kunas (7 euro) per hour parking! You must be joking Dubrovnik! Nearly enough to see the fish from the night before come back up! Despite our adventures with ad hoc parking in Verona, we scoured the backstreets with a fine tooth-comb, and eventually landed some free parking 🙂

Climbing the walls of Dubrovnik was quite an experience. Incredible views of the city, the hills and the bay. And to appreciate the impact of the Yugoslav war you can count how many of the rooftops had to be rebuilt after shellings and attacks. Would definitely recommend this walk. Highly rated by the Lonely Planet as well incidentally 😉

We explored the city streets, ate lunch and then set off again in Seline, this time, bound for Montenegro!

It was evening time when we reached the border for Montenegro.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y0jnqj84vU0/V8r7qbsixnI/AAAAAAAAFaw/ouuVEjS39uM62yVjEwQ0kOLcndDfx0K5gCCo/s144-o/20160827_130757.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145333002946162″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_130757.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dVdwb25ttX0/V8r7qaBvNbI/AAAAAAAAFaw/Jg5K4qNONzoRLGyBP3QvtSteqWmdpPsOQCCo/s144-o/20160827_124810.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332554970546″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_124810.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wgmUqthaXJo/V8r7qeAf_jI/AAAAAAAAFaw/ZHAEkkZGL1EWttFooTL3Ts-00h5hyas-wCCo/s144-o/20160827_123858.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145333623520818″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_123858.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GkmjjQNXktY/V8r7qdw_EGI/AAAAAAAAFaw/Z72PlKmtBggclf1ihPZsKDBVBpnPBmZQwCCo/s144-o/20160827_123815.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145333558448226″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_123815.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gGjVwOOrqxo/V8r7qa3tktI/AAAAAAAAFaw/ywyQQuRFHDop1oAcpa3ClSGcE1TPX0A9ACCo/s144-o/20160827_122831.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332781355730″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_122831.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wO-lpp-QScM/V8r7qQPfHxI/AAAAAAAAFaw/8bpH7ux75vAQ2tV0nv94z54rmt-GBqd1ACCo/s144-o/20160827_121953.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145329928281874″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_121953.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

 

August 28th

A burly border copper directed us towards the insurance depot. But not before offering us the option of spotting him a 20 euro in exchange of insurance-less access to Montenegro….a taste of the way of things here D

We got our greencard and drove on into this new country. Noticeably more chaotic, noisy and dishevelled than what we left behind in Croatia. But exciting, buzzy and charming nonetheless. We expected to drive to Budva, but halfway there, we were confronted with a car ferry, which every car going south on the roads loaded onto. So we did the same. We crossed the bay from Herci Govi as a flaming sun set over this amazing backdrop of turquoise waters, terracotta skies and slate-grey mountain tops. ‘Montenegro’….black mountains. Got it! We disembarked and drove to Kotor, a beautiful ancient walled town nestled on the bay. We parked up and headed inside the walled town, full of cobbled streets, live music, bustling restaurants and a buzzy atmosphere.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JzFZxpZ28iE/V8r7qYuNIQI/AAAAAAAAFaw/70dJVsRc9Igsr6FQY_nPlkpN8tFp2_91wCCo/s144-o/20160827_191031.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332204609794″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_191031.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lmFvjkwVnmY/V8r7qURNUVI/AAAAAAAAFaw/YshkT06qzK01PzcGyRr_IkFMIf2UQ-J7gCCo/s144-o/20160827_173106.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145331009245522″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_173106.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

 

After dinner, we found a cozy pub, with some great outdoor live rock and guitar music. The craic was mighty…..until the Montenegran police suddenly ambushed in full force at 1am. They knocked off the guitar amps and commandeered the lead vocalist’s microphone. All men were to queue up to be searched. This was translated to us by locals beside us. Apparently, a commonplace thing in Montenegro. Nobody seemed fussed though. I escaped any interference, but poor Seb felt very violated by the whole thing. He’s recovering now 😉

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h332RriInF0/V8r7qWevYEI/AAAAAAAAFaw/PGpg21psX4QkjRsRWgFT-TaxDAOarsnlgCCo/s144-o/20160827_234112.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145331602874434″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160827_234112.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

 

August 29th

Today, we scaled the walls of Kotor. These walls were incredible! A vertical fortress rising to 260 metres above the sea. A serious engineering and building endeavor. And a serious endeavor for two rather hungover travelers, who were becoming increasingly less fit over time as a consequence of van life 😉 That evening we left Kotor, bound for more northern destinations in Montenegro. We stopped over in Cetinje to sleep. The old capital apparently. Nothing much to see here. Earns points for a quiet sleeping destination though!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KW0c-V38nK4/V8r7qaRbAfI/AAAAAAAAFaw/TN2NO2yZePo6rPCTtEPehrhWRGrPbQeQQCCo/s144-o/20160828_170542.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332620755442″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160828_170542.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_bDy-h-P2Xo/V8r7qU0WUEI/AAAAAAAAFaw/4T2OVMmuH0QdekivyRybqRdeuWcp0P7twCCo/s144-o/20160828_163836.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145331156635714″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160828_163836.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Na3y8C5Py78/V8r7qfbdE2I/AAAAAAAAFaw/eTdz4r9JxYsg54l0zXuNbGgg8NwuGxp_gCCo/s144-o/20160828_163256-PANO.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145334005011298″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160828_163256-PANO.jpg” image_size=”4232×1183″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AYxk15_bDYs/V8r7qT8isZI/AAAAAAAAFaw/uLo8-4H-45ALPVBgk2fKp3h6ntHNUQhCgCCo/s144-o/20160828_163300.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145330922566034″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160828_163300.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

 

August 30th

Bound for Dormitoor National park, we stopped off in Ostrog monastery on the way. A cliffside monastery in the Montanegran mountains, still housed by monks, living their lives in prayer and abstinence. The first thing we noticed here, was the overflowing skips just downhill from the monastery. More empty wine and beer bottles than you could shake a stick at! That answered our question about how these people could live such lives of solitude and isolation.

We walked around the parts of the monastery that were within limits for the public. At one point, we accidentally walked into the private wake of a monk. For those unfamiliar, this is where a deceased body is laid out for people to pray over. When we found ourselves in a queue, and suddenly at the top of this queue, face to face with the corpse and another monk standing over him (very much alive!), we did what any complete idiots would do…mumble something incomprehensible, bless oneself, some sort of bowing action, then scurry away ASAP…phew…incognito and subtle as bricks 🙂

By the way, lonely planet rates this place as a ‘dont miss’ entity…..odd socks rate this as ‘don’t bother your backside’. Its miles away, up a windy, corkscrew hill climb. The heat is stifling. And there are dozens of tourists wandering about fighting for fridge magnets, key rings and rosary beads. The Montenegran of Knock, high in the mountains (to those who’ve been)!

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gEnNhtoJwfE/V8r7qZmDw8I/AAAAAAAAFaw/lZMVQVXutdwGrC_W5S2fmwMGe_XnUcVCwCCo/s144-o/20160829_134458.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332438877122″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160829_134458.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4uYQ-A0fAkg/V8r7qZmqSJI/AAAAAAAAFaw/XJL6AbbEzVAAE4l06HcP-xVwFVwW8FukQCCo/s144-o/20160829_124123.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332441401490″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160829_124123.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SCMD2JBjd28/V8r7qb6MKjI/AAAAAAAAFaw/mSrwkM8C38g56kWbc207XvwrwqdSTC4JACCo/s144-o/20160829_122917.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145333060184626″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160829_122917.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

 

We continued on the road for Durmitor, and made it there eventually, but not before being stopped by another cop on the roads. He stopped us for not having lights on. This is a no-no in Montenegro, regardless of time of day. But if we paid a 20 euro ‘fine’, we could drive on. We looked surprised. Then he dropped the price to 10 euro. Flexible fining, but lets not complain….ten is better than twenty afterall 🙂

We reached Jabljak by dusk, walked around the pretty jezero negro (the black lake), then parked up for the night.

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yhe4TAidW88/V8r7qS7W7rI/AAAAAAAAFaw/HRR6i-Q01VQXRksJcfvJp8JU8FJK07YrQCCo/s144-o/20160829_190404.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145330649165490″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160829_190404.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

 

August 31st

An early start, ready for some fresh mountain air and much needed exercise! We set off towards the national park. After sourcing a map (of very dodgy quality) in the local post office, we decided to take on a challenging route, that included ascending Bobatov Kuk, Montenegro’s highest peak at 2,523 metres. Signs at the park entrance told us that Bobatov Kuk was a 6 hour hike. Our map said 5. Our instinct said this was a time for the round trip probably. Our legs said, ‘who cares? Just start walking and see what happens’. So we set off. A long and difficult ascent. Steep inclines. Massive boulders and slippery scree. But a well marked route. Amazing views. When we finally reached the summit, the views that awaited were well worth the effort. Have a look at the photos below for yourself. And the ridiculous video clip, delirious from fatigue and dehydration 😉

[peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h1GOMLkZHK0/V8r7qS-u3fI/AAAAAAAAFaw/-PoTMbD2iAQ4nGUnOOr2gva0UpflwRQCgCCo/s144-o/20160830_173204.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145330663316978″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160830_173204.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mcFbHVn_ws0/V8r7qfYAOUI/AAAAAAAAFaw/Vd7VRI16nmAQPYOrcbv5bZCr9r1mA_tHACCo/s144-o/20160830_164032.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145333990537538″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160830_164032.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MkB8i3Z8w9M/V8r7qZhr-FI/AAAAAAAAFaw/GbFSOQCfirICsM7Ziqb7OnL8XpeAAp0xACCo/s144-o/20160830_161005.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145332420540498″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160830_161005.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ykB9FxNL9jU/V8r7qXd-GqI/AAAAAAAAFaw/QB2hH6eGq7gIaeCMOg2S8QRs_uv6CX_KwCCo/s144-o/20160830_160803.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145331868080802″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160830_160803.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vL7lj87_Ptc/V8r7qQZLaXI/AAAAAAAAFaw/4M2a5kcxKQMfUvzKL8nfk6WJgHNDrd-YgCCo/s144-o/20160830_155104.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145329968933234″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160830_155104.jpg” image_size=”2592×1944″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CyYPCFrzQss/V8r7qXaN27I/AAAAAAAAFaw/RsDXTaoA5kcPeB_ChUjIRDRTmi-RFZmnQCCo/s144-o/20160830_154938.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145331852336050″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160830_154938.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4JJfBs1AoDg/V8r7qRngyiI/AAAAAAAAFaw/2TyWsMtkVAU7pAgTA-5gHCxWy6Pke2UWQCCo/s144-o/20160830_153715.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145330297489954″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160830_153715.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_pFmQvAV8Vs/V8r7qVqr17I/AAAAAAAAFaw/YqAnLfH0gzoA7gnAbyzXNK3WJs5xq91AgCCo/s144-o/20160830_134029.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145331384539058″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160830_134029.jpg” image_size=”2988×5312″ ] [peg-image src=”https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d2qFxC1YCq0/V8r7qfiZ1bI/AAAAAAAAFaw/ZBA8DFSE6xcWu90wMDNhzjgdb9tSpvSBgCCo/s144-o/20160830_130140.jpg” href=”https://picasaweb.google.com/106656392310830434275/6321586539379131713#6326145334034159026″ caption=”” type=”image” alt=”20160830_130140.jpg” image_size=”5312×2988″ ]

 

We descended slowly, dreaming of cold beers and resting our weary legs. Near the bottom of the mountain lived a lovely old man in a hut, where he sold cold beer to weary climbers. He sold no water, just beer 🙂 We gratefully bought some and continued on our way out of the park with lighter legs now and hungry bellies!